I was just wondering if there was any difference between tig amp setting for different countries. I know that there is a difference with volts at the power outlets, but does that affect amp settings. Some of the suggested amp settings are a little bit hotter than expected. I have never really paid attention to differences, cause Ive always set it on what melts, but recently with tig I have been trying other peoples settings and they seem at least 10 - 20 % hotter. Is it just me or is this normal US - Australian settings conversion that I never knew about
Some cheaper machines' outputs are affected by input voltage. Other than that, it comes down to the actual calibration inside the machine via all the internal parts that accounts for differences between machines.
It could also just be that others' suggestions are hotter because they are more proficient at TIG and they can control the puddle that much better with a faster travel rate.
It could also just be that others' suggestions are hotter because they are more proficient at TIG and they can control the puddle that much better with a faster travel rate.
Mains power in the US is 60hz, where as in AU and EU I do believe it's 50hz. I don't know if that could make a difference or not. If you're talking about an inverter machine, I would think Amps are Amps, but if perhaps the output voltages of US machines vs others is not the same, then yes, there would be a difference in power output.
My MIG welder has analog controls so voltage is only something I could guess from the tables on the placards inside the unit. (or use a meter which I don't care about). And on my TIG welder, there it does show the voltage, but only when an arc is stuck so I'm under the hood and never care what that is as long as the weld is ok. I just don't give volts much thought.
My MIG welder has analog controls so voltage is only something I could guess from the tables on the placards inside the unit. (or use a meter which I don't care about). And on my TIG welder, there it does show the voltage, but only when an arc is stuck so I'm under the hood and never care what that is as long as the weld is ok. I just don't give volts much thought.
Jack Ryan
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If you are comparing transformer welders, the same welder in Australia (particularly an older one) will have a higher output voltage because the mains voltage in Australia is higher. The mains frequency is also different but I don't think that would affect the "heat" of the puddle. I am ignoring 110 volt welders because there is no mains 110 volt supply in Australia.Gdarc21 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 12, 2021 5:51 am I was just wondering if there was any difference between tig amp setting for different countries. I know that there is a difference with volts at the power outlets, but does that affect amp settings. Some of the suggested amp settings are a little bit hotter than expected. I have never really paid attention to differences, cause Ive always set it on what melts, but recently with tig I have been trying other peoples settings and they seem at least 10 - 20 % hotter. Is it just me or is this normal US - Australian settings conversion that I never knew about
If you are comparing inverter welders, the output voltage and current will be the same.
I think it is always difficult to compare settings because each welder (machine) is different and many are uncalibrated with just arbitrary numbers on the dial. Then there is the welder (artisan) - some like a runny puddle and others less so.
Jack
Basically, TIG (welding) amps are not related to the type of power input as far as the voltage or frequency goes.
The TIG amps may be limited to a certain level as the AC input circuit may only be dimensioned/fused to a certain level in each country/region. Eg. in the USA a welder on a 120V/20A circuit will be limited in the welding current compared to a 240V/50A circuit, while in many parts of europe a standard single-phase 230V circuit will be fused at 16A (13A for UK) and then quickly switches to 3-phase 400V or more for more available current. (And yes.. In europe, 32A or 64A single phase 230V does exist here and there, but it's not common as 3-phase is often brought to nearly all industrial locations and many homes)
But for instance a TIG machine set to 80A will (within reason) weld at that current level when fed with 120V, 240V or even 400V AC..
Like mentioned above, the (open) voltage on an old transformer machine can be affected by the input AC voltage (which is why they are often only rated for 1 voltage/frequency), but on later ones and on inverter machines this is no longer coupled and the voltage is also totally controlled by the power electronics in the box.
The biggest 'problem' with TIG amps at the torch is that in many cases, esp. on cheaper no-brand makes and models, it's just a random number printed on the box.. They are not calibrated and the number printed is in many cases just marketing 'bovine excrement'.
'Brand' welding machines usually WILL make the rated amps out-of-the-box and usually exceed it a little when new so they stay consistent over their lifespan.
With a no-name TIG machine it can be interesting to do a test with a torch held in a clamp and set just above a big block of steel or alu and then use an amp-clamp to determine what actual amps are produced by the machine at each front panel setting. If it uses a knob then use a marker or stickers to put the 'real' amps on it.
Bye, Arno.
The TIG amps may be limited to a certain level as the AC input circuit may only be dimensioned/fused to a certain level in each country/region. Eg. in the USA a welder on a 120V/20A circuit will be limited in the welding current compared to a 240V/50A circuit, while in many parts of europe a standard single-phase 230V circuit will be fused at 16A (13A for UK) and then quickly switches to 3-phase 400V or more for more available current. (And yes.. In europe, 32A or 64A single phase 230V does exist here and there, but it's not common as 3-phase is often brought to nearly all industrial locations and many homes)
But for instance a TIG machine set to 80A will (within reason) weld at that current level when fed with 120V, 240V or even 400V AC..
Like mentioned above, the (open) voltage on an old transformer machine can be affected by the input AC voltage (which is why they are often only rated for 1 voltage/frequency), but on later ones and on inverter machines this is no longer coupled and the voltage is also totally controlled by the power electronics in the box.
The biggest 'problem' with TIG amps at the torch is that in many cases, esp. on cheaper no-brand makes and models, it's just a random number printed on the box.. They are not calibrated and the number printed is in many cases just marketing 'bovine excrement'.
'Brand' welding machines usually WILL make the rated amps out-of-the-box and usually exceed it a little when new so they stay consistent over their lifespan.
With a no-name TIG machine it can be interesting to do a test with a torch held in a clamp and set just above a big block of steel or alu and then use an amp-clamp to determine what actual amps are produced by the machine at each front panel setting. If it uses a knob then use a marker or stickers to put the 'real' amps on it.
Bye, Arno.
Thanks guys, all of the help makes sense. I wasn't real sure as most of my tig has been dc where amp control doesnt really matter, as long as its making nice welds and peno, and some staino.
I decided to do some small pipe joins, making a welding trolley, to practice tight spaces, both hands, different back caps etc. Roughly 20 joins on 15nb and 32nb pipe.
Discovered situations that never happened to me on bigger stuff, like blowouts on sealed pipe, tig-stortion(mild but I know its there).
The welder is an inverter 180 cigweld(thermadyne generation) and is right on the amps for sticks and so I figured it would be close.
I am thinking operater error though, cause I did a few with 100 amps + and managed to get ups downs and flats all to work on this setting. Yesterday was all craters snapping out, choc dust, and some tungsten(which can only make the weld stronger
)
But today I think it was cause I relaxed alot and took my time. I didnt expect a trolley to take 16 hrs to get to rolling chassis. Full tig no cheater tacks though.
I did scour through the pages to find an answer first, so appreciate the help guys. Thanks
I decided to do some small pipe joins, making a welding trolley, to practice tight spaces, both hands, different back caps etc. Roughly 20 joins on 15nb and 32nb pipe.
Discovered situations that never happened to me on bigger stuff, like blowouts on sealed pipe, tig-stortion(mild but I know its there).
The welder is an inverter 180 cigweld(thermadyne generation) and is right on the amps for sticks and so I figured it would be close.
I am thinking operater error though, cause I did a few with 100 amps + and managed to get ups downs and flats all to work on this setting. Yesterday was all craters snapping out, choc dust, and some tungsten(which can only make the weld stronger
)But today I think it was cause I relaxed alot and took my time. I didnt expect a trolley to take 16 hrs to get to rolling chassis. Full tig no cheater tacks though.
I did scour through the pages to find an answer first, so appreciate the help guys. Thanks