Hi,
been watching the vids on youtube and trying to take in the tips and tricks.
i have a Thermal Arc Arcmaster 175TE tig/stick welder. its a great unit its the man holding it that isn't.
unfortunately it has no option for foot peddle so its a latch torch. probably nothing wrong with this except the man using it.
ok i weld with gas perfectly have done since 1982 i have started to work with stainless so gas welding isn't an option or is it? anyway i believe tig is probably the best.
i use the stock lens with a #7 shield i have the machine set to normal trigger on HF Tig (not sure what lift tig means) i have the argon set to 20cfm and alter the voltage/ampage to suite my steel thickness. the machine has no pulse feature and i have no patience. i only have no patience because i am a perfectionist and like to get control of things quickly.... i have had this tig since 2011 and i still suck.
am i trying to run before i can crawl? had about 30 hours on it trying to figure this out over the past year and a bit but would really like to get to use this effortlessly for what it has cost me.
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Hi - welcome to the forum from a fellow new(ish) member.
Just looked up your machine - looks basic - but fine to start with if you don't need AC for ally work.
HF is the most used setting & initiates arc as soon as torch switch is pressed - lift arc requires you to touch the tungsten to the work piece ( only a small sensing current present ) , then roll the torch back untill you break the circuit - at this point the machine will apply power to the torch - I would'nt use this setting if possible as it is very easy to stick the tungsten to the work - or contaminate it - you will get annoyed & spend alot of time sharpeneing the tungsten ! - I also had a machine similar to yours ( Butters 166 ) & did many hundreds of feet of stainless handrails with it, but the number of stops & starts on T joints made me buy a better model.
You don't specify the problems your having, but if you follow the rule of 1amp per thou material thickness ( up to 1/8" ) set that as a starting value on the amps I would think if you have gas welded for that long just keeping a steady arc length & maintainiing a weld pool should be easy -filler rod is much like gas welding - just angles need to be checked on - keep torch as upright as you can while being able to see , but keep rod down as flat as possible - on stainless it's often possible to design the joints to allow fusion welds.
The foot pedal is a nice extra for some jobs - Jody likes them - but they are not essential to get good results - the same with pulse - I got it on mine but rarely use it as it is only low frequency - goes up to that annoying 5 pulse per second.
Gas flow seems high - I don't think you need that much unless you need alot of stickout - just wasting expensive gas - but I doubt it will be giving you problems.
Have you got a good quality tungsten of suitable size & type & sharpened correctly ? for your machine I would think 2% thoriated ( or Lanthanated ) 1.6mm for thinner stuff or 2.4mm would cover everything - just make taper longer or shorter accordingly - ground with marks down length - not at 90degrees.
With previous gas experience & 30hours seat time I'm surprised you have'nt got it down - maybe post some pictures of your results or a bit more info on the problem - someone here will be able to put you on the right path.
Don't give up or get too angry ! Cheers.
Just looked up your machine - looks basic - but fine to start with if you don't need AC for ally work.
HF is the most used setting & initiates arc as soon as torch switch is pressed - lift arc requires you to touch the tungsten to the work piece ( only a small sensing current present ) , then roll the torch back untill you break the circuit - at this point the machine will apply power to the torch - I would'nt use this setting if possible as it is very easy to stick the tungsten to the work - or contaminate it - you will get annoyed & spend alot of time sharpeneing the tungsten ! - I also had a machine similar to yours ( Butters 166 ) & did many hundreds of feet of stainless handrails with it, but the number of stops & starts on T joints made me buy a better model.
You don't specify the problems your having, but if you follow the rule of 1amp per thou material thickness ( up to 1/8" ) set that as a starting value on the amps I would think if you have gas welded for that long just keeping a steady arc length & maintainiing a weld pool should be easy -filler rod is much like gas welding - just angles need to be checked on - keep torch as upright as you can while being able to see , but keep rod down as flat as possible - on stainless it's often possible to design the joints to allow fusion welds.
The foot pedal is a nice extra for some jobs - Jody likes them - but they are not essential to get good results - the same with pulse - I got it on mine but rarely use it as it is only low frequency - goes up to that annoying 5 pulse per second.
Gas flow seems high - I don't think you need that much unless you need alot of stickout - just wasting expensive gas - but I doubt it will be giving you problems.
Have you got a good quality tungsten of suitable size & type & sharpened correctly ? for your machine I would think 2% thoriated ( or Lanthanated ) 1.6mm for thinner stuff or 2.4mm would cover everything - just make taper longer or shorter accordingly - ground with marks down length - not at 90degrees.
With previous gas experience & 30hours seat time I'm surprised you have'nt got it down - maybe post some pictures of your results or a bit more info on the problem - someone here will be able to put you on the right path.
Don't give up or get too angry ! Cheers.
Hi thanks for the reply,
i think my main problem is i am trying to go too fast! with gas i can set the torch perfectly according to application (steel thickness) and wiz along while making great strong and neat welds. but this is a slower process i believe? maybe i am ill informed lol.
one of the other problems is getting used to the speed glass, again with gas i simply use welding goggles (green lens) and i can see the work perfectly, i just last week acquired a new speed glass as previously i was using my father inlaws which didn't react good and was either too dark or arc eye, i just couldn't set it right. this new one seems spot on.
the welds are basically crap something a 2 y/o would produce and as yet something i would rather not take pictures of its just a waste of space on a memory card lol. (bit embarrassing)
tungsten? i can fill this blank in tomorrow i will go get the pack from the garage, but yes i got the grinding tip from youtube (as i didn't know previously) and grind the tip down towards the rod and touch the end on the wheel just as its stopping to knock the point off.
power i didn't know that its exhaust work i have to do which is 1.6mm stainless, i have 1.6 316L filler rods which i believe is the more versatile of the rods, or was i ill informed with that too?
i will also turn the gas down and see if that helps.
i am moving to a new unit next week so i can set me a nice welding bench up there and sit and practice more with these tips.
when i get some more oxy/acetylene i will post both my progress with the tig and compare this to my gas welds via images.
welding isn't my full time job, i own/run a small garage repairing cars hence the gas welding but i do the lot from servicing to complete engine builds right throught to crash repair and full resprays. basically everything between the bumpers. it will be a busy month but i will get round to trying this and update you guys with my progress. but i will give the data on my tungsten tomorrow.
i think my main problem is i am trying to go too fast! with gas i can set the torch perfectly according to application (steel thickness) and wiz along while making great strong and neat welds. but this is a slower process i believe? maybe i am ill informed lol.
one of the other problems is getting used to the speed glass, again with gas i simply use welding goggles (green lens) and i can see the work perfectly, i just last week acquired a new speed glass as previously i was using my father inlaws which didn't react good and was either too dark or arc eye, i just couldn't set it right. this new one seems spot on.
the welds are basically crap something a 2 y/o would produce and as yet something i would rather not take pictures of its just a waste of space on a memory card lol. (bit embarrassing)
tungsten? i can fill this blank in tomorrow i will go get the pack from the garage, but yes i got the grinding tip from youtube (as i didn't know previously) and grind the tip down towards the rod and touch the end on the wheel just as its stopping to knock the point off.
power i didn't know that its exhaust work i have to do which is 1.6mm stainless, i have 1.6 316L filler rods which i believe is the more versatile of the rods, or was i ill informed with that too?
i will also turn the gas down and see if that helps.
i am moving to a new unit next week so i can set me a nice welding bench up there and sit and practice more with these tips.
when i get some more oxy/acetylene i will post both my progress with the tig and compare this to my gas welds via images.
welding isn't my full time job, i own/run a small garage repairing cars hence the gas welding but i do the lot from servicing to complete engine builds right throught to crash repair and full resprays. basically everything between the bumpers. it will be a busy month but i will get round to trying this and update you guys with my progress. but i will give the data on my tungsten tomorrow.
RedIron881
- RedIron881
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Welcome!
I haven't done much gas welding but the little I did do I remember it being a somewhat slow process. With Tig welding stainless if you linger around too much it goes bad Really Fast! Have to get in and get out. Other things to keep in mind is holding a tight arc. The tungsten needs to be right up there and if you touch it just stop and change it out. Makes life less stressful, if you ask me. Might want to try running passes on a plate with no wire, just making a nice even fusion like pass to get the feel of arc length and speed. Then once you've got something your happy with add wire. When it comes to wire personally I like to use the thinner stuff (.030-.045). The bigger stuff .062+ works great but takes longer to melt. Just something to keep in mind.
I know it's hard to be almost starting over when you know how to do it but just can't. Give it some time and practice. Remember back when you started Gas welding. It took a bit to learn that too.
Best of luck and post some photos.
I haven't done much gas welding but the little I did do I remember it being a somewhat slow process. With Tig welding stainless if you linger around too much it goes bad Really Fast! Have to get in and get out. Other things to keep in mind is holding a tight arc. The tungsten needs to be right up there and if you touch it just stop and change it out. Makes life less stressful, if you ask me. Might want to try running passes on a plate with no wire, just making a nice even fusion like pass to get the feel of arc length and speed. Then once you've got something your happy with add wire. When it comes to wire personally I like to use the thinner stuff (.030-.045). The bigger stuff .062+ works great but takes longer to melt. Just something to keep in mind.
I know it's hard to be almost starting over when you know how to do it but just can't. Give it some time and practice. Remember back when you started Gas welding. It took a bit to learn that too.
Best of luck and post some photos.
Hi Thanks for the welcome and tip,
i did do a couple of straight welds with the tig on a thicker steel (mild 1.5" angle) without filler rod, this weld was very neat i even impressed myself. yes for a minute while i was welding that i thought i had finally got it until i moved onto the thin walled stainless then it went wrong again lol. with holding the torch and not being able to use it like a pen because of the trigger i don't know why but i cant keep a good distance with the tungsten, with gas i don't have to worry about that too much and i do find myself regrinding the tungsten quite a lot. but i honestly don't know why i have this problem, a gas torch is held the same way except i don't have the trigger to contend with.
i do have some stainless mig wire i might try that as long as i can keep my joints tight i should be ok with that its when i add filler it goes wrong i twitch with my torch hand and going from what you just said, yes i think it takes too long for the rod to melt so i maybe concentrating too much on that and lapsing on tip distance.
i did do a couple of straight welds with the tig on a thicker steel (mild 1.5" angle) without filler rod, this weld was very neat i even impressed myself. yes for a minute while i was welding that i thought i had finally got it until i moved onto the thin walled stainless then it went wrong again lol. with holding the torch and not being able to use it like a pen because of the trigger i don't know why but i cant keep a good distance with the tungsten, with gas i don't have to worry about that too much and i do find myself regrinding the tungsten quite a lot. but i honestly don't know why i have this problem, a gas torch is held the same way except i don't have the trigger to contend with.
i do have some stainless mig wire i might try that as long as i can keep my joints tight i should be ok with that its when i add filler it goes wrong i twitch with my torch hand and going from what you just said, yes i think it takes too long for the rod to melt so i maybe concentrating too much on that and lapsing on tip distance.
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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I still think you should post a picture - no one is going to judge you here & no one was born an expert - so if your a competent gas welder we are all missing something ( possibly very basic ) which is causing you the problems. I was going to suggest eyesight / mask but did'nt want to offend - asssuming you have a good mask / hood with new or clean covers then just get used to having to get your head closer to the action as the ceramic limits visibility compared to a gas flame.
If your mostly on 1/16" exhaust then a 1/16 - 1.6mm tungsten is fine - you could go thinner but may limit you if welding to a thicker flange.
Filler rod is unlikely to give you a problem - but most exhaust is 304 or 308 grade & often flanges & other end fittings are mild steel so 316 is certainly not needed - I would look for either 308 or 309 whichever you can get the best price on - both are considered in laymans terms a universal rod - only real world difference is if you require a molydenum content - but don't sweat it for the work your doing. Tig should be as fast as gas - or faster so maybe you have too little heat - it will depend a bit on fit up of joints - this is far more critical with Tig over gas - if there is no choice but to weld badly matched parts with a gap consider using a bigger filler rod as this allows easier control by cooling the weld pool quicker so there is less chancee of burn through - flip side is on well fitted joints it leaves a large profile weld.
Random thought - seems obvious but you do have the earth positive & the torch negative - it's the opposite of "normal" like stick welding.
Don't give up on the Tig - it is worth it - but as long as you use pure argon you can Mig weld stainless exhaust parts fine - almost all manufactured stuff I've seen is done this way for speed - and you can gas weld it - I've not done it for years but used to - requires flux and the discolouration / heat affected zone will be way bigger - again - on an exhaust under a car who cares - if the exhaust is "on show " up the cab of a truck / motorcycle then it won't cut it. All my stainless work has to be polished so the Tig is king.
If your mostly on 1/16" exhaust then a 1/16 - 1.6mm tungsten is fine - you could go thinner but may limit you if welding to a thicker flange.
Filler rod is unlikely to give you a problem - but most exhaust is 304 or 308 grade & often flanges & other end fittings are mild steel so 316 is certainly not needed - I would look for either 308 or 309 whichever you can get the best price on - both are considered in laymans terms a universal rod - only real world difference is if you require a molydenum content - but don't sweat it for the work your doing. Tig should be as fast as gas - or faster so maybe you have too little heat - it will depend a bit on fit up of joints - this is far more critical with Tig over gas - if there is no choice but to weld badly matched parts with a gap consider using a bigger filler rod as this allows easier control by cooling the weld pool quicker so there is less chancee of burn through - flip side is on well fitted joints it leaves a large profile weld.
Random thought - seems obvious but you do have the earth positive & the torch negative - it's the opposite of "normal" like stick welding.
Don't give up on the Tig - it is worth it - but as long as you use pure argon you can Mig weld stainless exhaust parts fine - almost all manufactured stuff I've seen is done this way for speed - and you can gas weld it - I've not done it for years but used to - requires flux and the discolouration / heat affected zone will be way bigger - again - on an exhaust under a car who cares - if the exhaust is "on show " up the cab of a truck / motorcycle then it won't cut it. All my stainless work has to be polished so the Tig is king.
Haha yes eye sight is one. i will snap some pics today and get them up on here
thats interesting on the filler rod, i did ask for 308 but a pack of that was running near £80 he had some 316 in singles he let me have, i like spending money but i couldnt justify £80 for something i would hardly get to use for a while.
tig probably is faster than gas but until you can run you need to be able to crawl
and yes i have the +to- and vise verse. i did make that mistake when i bought the unit and was eager to have a play. then i read the distructions
thats interesting on the filler rod, i did ask for 308 but a pack of that was running near £80 he had some 316 in singles he let me have, i like spending money but i couldnt justify £80 for something i would hardly get to use for a while.
tig probably is faster than gas but until you can run you need to be able to crawl
and yes i have the +to- and vise verse. i did make that mistake when i bought the unit and was eager to have a play. then i read the distructions
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Wow - that sounds expensive - I assume as you stated £ in price you are UK based - always try Ebay as we do not have the same suppliers or availability of things that the US market enjoys.
Try this link for affordable 308 filler.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/308L-STAINLES ... 35c3c612a7
Or this for 309
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/309L-STAINLES ... 35c394a137
Try this link for affordable 308 filler.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/308L-STAINLES ... 35c3c612a7
Or this for 309
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/309L-STAINLES ... 35c394a137
the tungsten is 1.6mm 2% thoriated red top,
Thanks for the links, yes i am in the UK where sneezing is taxed.
ok just took some pics take a look.
these first images are of the angle i welded, some are with and some are without filler rod and they look quite good in my eyes, you guys may say different.
this is mild steel pipe seems that i'm not bad with a substance i am used to welding, although there is a hole in the next pic.
this is the stainless pipe weld... which is less than tragic
Thanks for the links, yes i am in the UK where sneezing is taxed.
ok just took some pics take a look.
these first images are of the angle i welded, some are with and some are without filler rod and they look quite good in my eyes, you guys may say different.
this is mild steel pipe seems that i'm not bad with a substance i am used to welding, although there is a hole in the next pic.
this is the stainless pipe weld... which is less than tragic
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Ok - if this were mine I would not be happy either - but there are plenty of things that can be improved - please take my opinion in a positive way - you can greatly improve your chances.
1st up - the angle iron is dirty & covered in mill scale - no one can Tig this well - everything you weld needs to be religiously cleaned - so use a grinder or flapwheel & get the stuff bright - also wipe with solvent. next it appears 6mm or so thick - this is at the upper end of you machines limits & borderline on your tungsten size - it maybe all you had but I would start off with something closer to the thickness you intend welding & you have started with a butt weld - this is much harder to follow than say a lap - so try to find some 2 > 3mm clean material & start with a lap joint - the surface of the weld shows some contamination - a lack of heat - probably a long or erratic arc length made worse by a slight shake - so once you have clean suitable metal make sure you are sitting at a comfortable height to the bench & find something to support your wrist so your hand can slide along as you weld without jerking - I reckon you will master that real quick as you were making some progress with nearly everything against you.
The tube although new looking still needs cleaning - by the black surface and very wide heat affected zone it appears you have too slow a travel speed and / or too much heat - aggravated probably by arc length & needing to prop hand for stability and possibly torch angle not giving good gas cover ( a gas lense would help alot on tube - I got 1 & always use it now ) - the butt joint is also very hard in thin wall tube - it is always going to challenge even experienced guys - if possible cut a small section of tube that fits inside to reduce burn through -or I use a tube expander to bell a short section on 1 side to make a slip joint - then the weld becomes a lap - this normally allows a weld without purging the inside - a butt creates all sorts of problems. if you don't have a smaller tube cut say a 1" piece off your job then slit it with a cutting disc or hacksaw & trim the ends till you can squeeze it into the ends to be joined - this will support the weld & eliminate burn through.
Hope some of this helps & good luck.
1st up - the angle iron is dirty & covered in mill scale - no one can Tig this well - everything you weld needs to be religiously cleaned - so use a grinder or flapwheel & get the stuff bright - also wipe with solvent. next it appears 6mm or so thick - this is at the upper end of you machines limits & borderline on your tungsten size - it maybe all you had but I would start off with something closer to the thickness you intend welding & you have started with a butt weld - this is much harder to follow than say a lap - so try to find some 2 > 3mm clean material & start with a lap joint - the surface of the weld shows some contamination - a lack of heat - probably a long or erratic arc length made worse by a slight shake - so once you have clean suitable metal make sure you are sitting at a comfortable height to the bench & find something to support your wrist so your hand can slide along as you weld without jerking - I reckon you will master that real quick as you were making some progress with nearly everything against you.
The tube although new looking still needs cleaning - by the black surface and very wide heat affected zone it appears you have too slow a travel speed and / or too much heat - aggravated probably by arc length & needing to prop hand for stability and possibly torch angle not giving good gas cover ( a gas lense would help alot on tube - I got 1 & always use it now ) - the butt joint is also very hard in thin wall tube - it is always going to challenge even experienced guys - if possible cut a small section of tube that fits inside to reduce burn through -or I use a tube expander to bell a short section on 1 side to make a slip joint - then the weld becomes a lap - this normally allows a weld without purging the inside - a butt creates all sorts of problems. if you don't have a smaller tube cut say a 1" piece off your job then slit it with a cutting disc or hacksaw & trim the ends till you can squeeze it into the ends to be joined - this will support the weld & eliminate burn through.
Hope some of this helps & good luck.
Thanks Brian, and no nothing was taken wrong, i should indeed have cleaned off the angle but with this simply being a nice Vee to hold the pipe i wasn't really that bothered about a strong weld. but yes it should have been cleaned off first you are right.
as for sitting? i dont have a chair available for that and the bench i did this at has doors on so i would have been more uncomfortable arching over if i did have a seat.
when i get the new unit setup and a suitable bench made i will get me a bar stool or build it to a hight a normal seat will fit under with my posture being correct. as for shaking lol damn you can tell that much from a picture? yes i was shaking because all my welds are free hand with no rest points.
i really appreciate the input and will use this info to better my time learning this tig stuff
Thanks
Dave
as for sitting? i dont have a chair available for that and the bench i did this at has doors on so i would have been more uncomfortable arching over if i did have a seat.
when i get the new unit setup and a suitable bench made i will get me a bar stool or build it to a hight a normal seat will fit under with my posture being correct. as for shaking lol damn you can tell that much from a picture? yes i was shaking because all my welds are free hand with no rest points.
i really appreciate the input and will use this info to better my time learning this tig stuff
Thanks
Dave
I cant get this, i just cant seem to set the unit right at all. At 30a its not enough power.
At 40a its blowin holes welds like crow s%&t and i am having trouble seeing the weld.
And its no better inbetween.
If i could weld stainless with gas i wouldn't have a problem
At 40a its blowin holes welds like crow s%&t and i am having trouble seeing the weld.
And its no better inbetween.
If i could weld stainless with gas i wouldn't have a problem
- weldin mike 27
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Hey,
All i can suggest is, when sharpening your tungsten, put it in a cordless drill and spin it against your grinder. A Jody tip for a smooth arc atlow amps.
Also changing the grip on the torch could help, run the cable out between your thumb and forfinger, over the back of your wrist, press the button with your fore finger, this can leave your other 3 fingers to rest on the bench oor prop and hold your hand steady.
Mick
All i can suggest is, when sharpening your tungsten, put it in a cordless drill and spin it against your grinder. A Jody tip for a smooth arc atlow amps.
Also changing the grip on the torch could help, run the cable out between your thumb and forfinger, over the back of your wrist, press the button with your fore finger, this can leave your other 3 fingers to rest on the bench oor prop and hold your hand steady.
Mick
Cheers mick
i cant give up i have to keep tryin . Lol if it was a mild steel exhaust i would have done it by now.
But i will try that. Small fingers dont help either lol
its more frustration than anythin. I have a mig at home could have brought that but came in car i am doin
i cant give up i have to keep tryin . Lol if it was a mild steel exhaust i would have done it by now.
But i will try that. Small fingers dont help either lol
its more frustration than anythin. I have a mig at home could have brought that but came in car i am doin
- weldin mike 27
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Hey,
Dont stress, it'll happen. Did you understand the torch holding technique i explained? If not i can try a photo tomorrow.
I have never really welded any thin material so i can only offer vague advice.
Mick
Dont stress, it'll happen. Did you understand the torch holding technique i explained? If not i can try a photo tomorrow.
I have never really welded any thin material so i can only offer vague advice.
Mick
Yes cheers mick. Ran out of rod so went and got mig. Ran out if wire.
The mufflers i had to fit were smaller diamiter pipe than exusting. Looks like a 3 yo done it but its what i face on a daily basis. People cant be told so it wastes my equipment
got sime 3mm stainless off cuts from next door now so when i got more rod and time i will sit and waste gas till i got it
The mufflers i had to fit were smaller diamiter pipe than exusting. Looks like a 3 yo done it but its what i face on a daily basis. People cant be told so it wastes my equipment
got sime 3mm stainless off cuts from next door now so when i got more rod and time i will sit and waste gas till i got it
right i got this figured out!
if its not stainless steel i am ok, i got plenty of mild steel rods to play with need to order some stainless 308L i got non at all now.
ok this is what i do on mild and both these with the larger 1/8 2% thoriated tungsten
this is 1.5mm mild steel sheet, i cut a peice off the end cleaned it up (i know it doesn't look like it) and welded it in a Vee
this is that Angle again with the 1/8 tungsten at 160A this time i cleaned it up first.
when i get some more stainless rods i will post what happens with stainless for me
if its not stainless steel i am ok, i got plenty of mild steel rods to play with need to order some stainless 308L i got non at all now.
ok this is what i do on mild and both these with the larger 1/8 2% thoriated tungsten
this is 1.5mm mild steel sheet, i cut a peice off the end cleaned it up (i know it doesn't look like it) and welded it in a Vee
this is that Angle again with the 1/8 tungsten at 160A this time i cleaned it up first.
when i get some more stainless rods i will post what happens with stainless for me
the above welds i set the switch to latch press switch to start the weld and let go, i found this better actually as my hand wasn't uncomfy holding a switch down in a bad position, i tried using index finger on the switch but it just felt all wrong, remember i am used to holding a gas torch which is more like this torch without a switch. but i have always welded cock handed, never used a torch the normal way, maybe i should practice with the switch in latch mode.
i am going to order a pack of 308L off ebay and get some seat time in, if i use the same method with the latch setting i should get this, i can hold the torch more loosely rather than giving myself death grip (which is probably another factor, shaking).
as i say i aint a quitter but i get frustrated to the point i have to have a brew and a cig and a think about it. All i have to do is retrain myself. have more seat time with mild so i get used to the machine fully. then get some seat time with stainless.
Thanks for all the help and advice guys i really appreciate it and your patience.
Dave
i am going to order a pack of 308L off ebay and get some seat time in, if i use the same method with the latch setting i should get this, i can hold the torch more loosely rather than giving myself death grip (which is probably another factor, shaking).
as i say i aint a quitter but i get frustrated to the point i have to have a brew and a cig and a think about it. All i have to do is retrain myself. have more seat time with mild so i get used to the machine fully. then get some seat time with stainless.
Thanks for all the help and advice guys i really appreciate it and your patience.
Dave
- weldin mike 27
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Hey,
good on ya mate,
Hope all works out.
Mick
good on ya mate,
Hope all works out.
Mick
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Joined:Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:13 pm
Hi - thats certainly improving - I reckon using the latch function has helped you hold the torch more comfortably as the welds show a much steadier hand compared with the first pics - not sure it will make a huge difference - but you really don't need 1/8" tungsten on your machines amps - 3/32" ( 2.4 mm ) is fine - you could probably use this size for most stuff - just sharpen a longer finer taper for the low amps stuff - although if you can afford it I think having the coice of going down to 1.6mm or even lower will be slightly easier on the exhaust tube - on the sharpening front I had really bad arc wander issues & improved this alot by getting a much finer stone on the grinder - the one I used looked quite fine visually - could'nt read the label but I used it on carbide lathe tools before going indexable dispoables - it always left a good finish on these. currently looking to get a dedicated machine with a diamond wheel when funds allow - if your on Ebay I saw some little 3" miniature bench grinders & Abtec stores have some fairly priced diamond wheels that could work - would have to make up a small fixture to hold the tungsten at an appropriate angle - but it's still £££'s cheaper than any of the manufactured things I've seen. I'd like to see what Jody uses - he never seems to have to sharpen his !!
All the best & keep up the practice.
All the best & keep up the practice.
Cheers Brian,noddybrian wrote:Hi - thats certainly improving - I reckon using the latch function has helped you hold the torch more comfortably as the welds show a much steadier hand compared with the first pics - not sure it will make a huge difference - but you really don't need 1/8" tungsten on your machines amps - 3/32" ( 2.4 mm ) is fine - you could probably use this size for most stuff - just sharpen a longer finer taper for the low amps stuff - although if you can afford it I think having the coice of going down to 1.6mm or even lower will be slightly easier on the exhaust tube - on the sharpening front I had really bad arc wander issues & improved this alot by getting a much finer stone on the grinder - the one I used looked quite fine visually - could'nt read the label but I used it on carbide lathe tools before going indexable dispoables - it always left a good finish on these. currently looking to get a dedicated machine with a diamond wheel when funds allow - if your on Ebay I saw some little 3" miniature bench grinders & Abtec stores have some fairly priced diamond wheels that could work - would have to make up a small fixture to hold the tungsten at an appropriate angle - but it's still £££'s cheaper than any of the manufactured things I've seen. I'd like to see what Jody uses - he never seems to have to sharpen his !!
All the best & keep up the practice.
the tungstens may well be 2.4 i will have to re check what i have. they was actually bought in error first time round but didn't fancy the 30 mile round trip changing them. i do have a set of 1.6 but when i set about welding that angle with it being 6mm i figured it would chew the 1.6 tungsten to bits.
good tip on the stone btw. i will look out for those. i have both 6 and 8" bench grinders and the 6" is the one with the grinding wheels on, the 8" is used for wire brush and buffing with it having a 1/2hp motor. my fine wheel on the grinder is looking rather sorry for its self now, those tungstens really chew those up so a diamond wheel would be ideal i guess. i think i seen a vid of Jody's where he is using a dedicated drill operated tungsten grinder, that might be worth a look at.
but i dare say making a holder for the tungsten wouldn't be so hard. drill a bar with a 1.6mm drill bit and weld it onto a bracket or the tool holder on the grinder its self at an angle or have it bolted so you can alter the angle according to how much the wheel is wearing down. but i have noticed strange arc patterns....more so when i started to weld this angle iron, then realised i had knocked the dial to 5A lol
i'll get there i have to concentrate on earning some money now and returning some cars to their owners. but really need to do one muffler again its really bad and upside bloody down, how does one weld a round muffler upside down? they have a nut/bolt in the tail pipe to fit noise reducers i some how got one at the top
after i checked and double checked it was right way up before i tacked it on. the rest of the pipe must have been upside down doh!My advice is keep practicing on the flat easy stuff. Once you have the motions down well and you are gaining consistency, you can work towards good results with other joints and tubing. Especially since you're practicing, just focus on the mild steel. Stainless will come once you have more control.
If you are still inconsistent on flat practice pieces, you'll have a hard time welding exhaust tubing upside down.
Good luck!
If you are still inconsistent on flat practice pieces, you'll have a hard time welding exhaust tubing upside down.
Good luck!
well i been practicing on mild and all was good until a paying job came in, bodywork on a peugeot car. the body is made from 0.5mm steel or tissue paper. the job was to pull the B pillar out and sort out what the botchers have been doing with hammers, so i cut a section of the sill out.
easy job, cut a piece out get up behind the rest with the spoons and straighten that out and weld the sill section back in. first part went better than planned. then i came to weld the sill back in.
1.6mm tunsten sharpened correctly, #7 cup but first tack it in place with the mig....
on lowest setting it blew holes right through while using the spot weld function so i knew at that point i was in for some fun and games.
the doors on this are fubar so i cleaned a bsection back to metal and had a blast with the tig with this having the lower ampage, starting at 5a i couldnt even get a puddle..worked up to 20A i got a puddle that took quite some time to do. it then simply blew thru, i upped the ampage to 25 thinking i need to get this forming faster and get moving along with it. nope it just blew straght through, dropped down to 15A no different.
so this wasn't paying bills i had to get on with trying to stitch this piece back on. i can safely say it cant be done with tig and its used a half real of wire in the mig, i still have all the holes to fill in.
i get the fact i need to practice but at what expense? i just had my BOC bill through from the last lot of things i got for this tig for £273.
i could easily have got 2 large oxy and acetylene bottles and had this job done ready for paint now with no grinding disks to buy.
i really should stick to what i know and stop listening to people telling me what i need to buy. its ok when you have regular wage coming in but when the jobs are few and far between and your only source of income....it really isn't cost effective.
easy job, cut a piece out get up behind the rest with the spoons and straighten that out and weld the sill section back in. first part went better than planned. then i came to weld the sill back in.
1.6mm tunsten sharpened correctly, #7 cup but first tack it in place with the mig....
on lowest setting it blew holes right through while using the spot weld function so i knew at that point i was in for some fun and games.
the doors on this are fubar so i cleaned a bsection back to metal and had a blast with the tig with this having the lower ampage, starting at 5a i couldnt even get a puddle..worked up to 20A i got a puddle that took quite some time to do. it then simply blew thru, i upped the ampage to 25 thinking i need to get this forming faster and get moving along with it. nope it just blew straght through, dropped down to 15A no different.
so this wasn't paying bills i had to get on with trying to stitch this piece back on. i can safely say it cant be done with tig and its used a half real of wire in the mig, i still have all the holes to fill in.
i get the fact i need to practice but at what expense? i just had my BOC bill through from the last lot of things i got for this tig for £273.
i could easily have got 2 large oxy and acetylene bottles and had this job done ready for paint now with no grinding disks to buy.
i really should stick to what i know and stop listening to people telling me what i need to buy. its ok when you have regular wage coming in but when the jobs are few and far between and your only source of income....it really isn't cost effective.
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:13 pm
Hi - sorry to hear your still having problems & yes BOC are robbing B-stards ! their also about to discontinue acetylene.
Are you lapping the joints with an edge joggler or seperate backing piece - maybe tack a backing plate of thicker material in first before replacing the outer sill.
On some of these late model cars made of very thin gauge material of higher carbon content I believe the approved repair procedure calls for Mig brazing using silicon bronze Mig wire so as not to blow through or create cracking / fatigue issues near the repair - it's not that cheap but is available here at my LWS & naturally Ebay ! - Maybe worth investigating - I don't repair cars ( except my own junk ! ) so not in a position to have tried it - I expect someone on the forum has - could be starting a new post.
All the best & good luck with your project.
Are you lapping the joints with an edge joggler or seperate backing piece - maybe tack a backing plate of thicker material in first before replacing the outer sill.
On some of these late model cars made of very thin gauge material of higher carbon content I believe the approved repair procedure calls for Mig brazing using silicon bronze Mig wire so as not to blow through or create cracking / fatigue issues near the repair - it's not that cheap but is available here at my LWS & naturally Ebay ! - Maybe worth investigating - I don't repair cars ( except my own junk ! ) so not in a position to have tried it - I expect someone on the forum has - could be starting a new post.
All the best & good luck with your project.