Welding Tips and Tricks

16 guage sheet metal, volt setting, tungsten size and cup size? Is there a reference chart for all this? Thanks guys & gals!

Welcome.

I weld 16 ga stainless frequently. There is no "Volt" setting for TIG. When I have a remote control, like a pedal, I use 65A as max. Usually a 3/32" tungsten. Cup doesn't matter much indoors.

I also weld 1/8" carbon steel. I often have the machine at 200A max, and use most of it, simply hauling ass as I go.

A little more detail in your question will help narrow down the settings you need.

Oh, and 16 ga. is not "thin" sheet metal.

Steve S

16 gauge is about .060" thick. General rule for steel is 1 amp per .001" of thickness. 60 amps is a good starting point. If it is stainless less may keep it from distorting and also keep the weld a nice rainbow colour instead of grey. 1/16" filler works well. 1/16" or 3/32" tungsten will be fine also.

Good luck.

Thank you guys!

Is there any advantage to useing a gas lens & cup over traditiomal set up for sheet metal?

The gas lens (on the left, in the photo) has an improved flow.
The standard cup (on the right) has the flow all over the place.

I like to run stainless super low. See if you can get someone to watch the machine for you when you pedal it, tell them right when it puddles and get them to tell you the amps. Pretty sure I was running 16 ga at 35-40 amps last week. I run it cold because the distortion kinda pisses me off. That number was for mostly fusion welds where very little filler rod was necessary. Experienced folks, let me know if I'm nuts.

Nathan,

I'd say you've nailed it for SS.

I've been experimenting lately with manually pulsing 16 ga, and I'm getting good results, but I've not done enough to endorse it yet. I did four autogenous (no filler) lap welds on 16 ga stainless today (because some no-fitting MF doesn't own a level and my pipe hanger was too short). Machine was set to 225A. I'd start the arc at 5, focus where I wanted, and mash/let off the pedal as fast as I could, advance, and repeat. Got solid welds, and NO sugar on the backside. The big plus was the welds didn't "draw" at all, the joints stayed straight. I'll have to experiment more to find the limits for what does and does not work.

Steve S

I want to know how that turns out! our pulse tigger is out and I've never welded pulse before, that would be awesome to get that technique mastered. I think I may run some beads like that tomorrow to see how it works for myself.

Get the Miller welding app its great I use it allot, very easy to look up settings.

scottwelder1371 wrote:Get the Miller welding app its great I use it allot, very easy to look up settings.

Indeed, it is, and it has it's place.

What's it recommend for welding a 4" 300# slip-flange to schedule 5 (both 304L SS) using 308L?

That's not meant to be a "dig" against the program. It's meant to point out the limitations of an "app" for welding.

I make that weld several times a year, and would love to hear a computer program's recommendations for it.

Steve S

Otto Nobedder wrote:

scottwelder1371 wrote:Get the Miller welding app its great I use it allot, very easy to look up settings.

Indeed, it is, and it has it's place.

What's it recommend for welding a 4" 300# slip-flange to schedule 5 (both 304L SS) using 308L?

That's not meant to be a "dig" against the program. It's meant to point out the limitations of an "app" for welding.

I make that weld several times a year, and would love to hear a computer program's recommendations for it.

Steve S

It told us to use 308 on a 316 food grade product the other day. We did. Lucky it was only a prototype lol

For future reference, use 316 on 316.