Welding Tips and Tricks

Well Gents,

I'm new at welding but am really interested in learning all I can. First I bought a MM 211 and we seem to be getting along pretty well. Then I figured I better learn Tig so I bought a Diversion 180. We aren't getting along as well. I never had a Tig torch in my hand before this summer and it's not going to make it easy. The only thing I've really tried with this welder is aluminum props. Either this is the wrong thing to start on or I'm a dang slow learner but I'll keep trying. The good part is I'm becoming an expert at Tungsten grinding! I have more time doing this than hood time.
Anyway, That's my update. I sure hope to give you guys a better one in the future.

Aluminum's a tough place to start with TIG. Props are a tough nut to learn on. 180 is not enough for heavy sections without preheat and/or helium.

Three cents...

Steve S

Thanks Steve. I kind of figured there is no way I can do much more than the edges so I'm trying to fill the chunks that are missing when hitting rocks. It's making me a bit crazy but you said a "tough place" to start, not impossible so I'll forge ahead.

TamJeff is the fellow who can be the most help here.

He does almost exclusively marine work.

Steve S

Great, Thank you.

Aluminum props, as in, outboard propellers? If so, they are cast aluminum and are trickier than regular aluminum.

Welding the edges of the blades is the perfect situation for manual pulse. You have to add the filler simultaneously when you strike the arc pretty much. 180 amps should be plenty for that. I weld them right on the edge and just keep stacking bead on bead.

Thanks TamJeff,

I'll keep on practicing.

If it is the blades you are welding, you don't need 180 amps AC. Using pulse, I use 100-125 amps, but I only have a momentary switch on the torch and pure tungsten and you may get by with a lot less amps than that. So, for me, it's 125 amps on, adding filler simultaneously for one bead, then it is completely off. I then move the torch in half bead increments, concentrating the bulk of the heat on the previous bead and washing the molten puddle to the thin parts. The real trick is getting your first clean bead to work from. When welding thin edges like that, you really need to have the torch 90 degrees to it. You can pulse it with your foot pedal if you are using one. You don't have to use continuous travel or heat on such thin parts, but rather, build tack on tack.

Don't get discouraged by cast or use that as a way to teach yourself aluminum welding though. Even cast that welds well is still bound to have some gremlins. Boat propellers are typically one of your cleaner castings though, as long as they haven't been soaking in salt water.

Welding a thin edge on cast would be a circus trick for experienced welders in which to show their torch skills. So if it is giving you difficulty, it's completely understandable.

TamJeff wrote: ...Welding a thin edge on cast would be a circus trick for experienced welders in which to show their torch skills. So if it is giving you difficulty, it's completely understandable...

Where's that damn "like" button, when you need it?

Steve S

Otto Nobedder wrote:

TamJeff wrote: ...Welding a thin edge on cast would be a circus trick for experienced welders in which to show their torch skills. So if it is giving you difficulty, it's completely understandable...

Where's that damn "like" button, when you need it?

Steve S

Every time my boss goes scalloping, he brings back a ruined prop. It appears that Captain Budweiser is not familiar with the waters up there.

TamJeff,

Yup, these props are boat props. No saltwater though. I live by Lake Superior so they are immersed in fresh water.
You are right that I'm trying to do the thin edges of these. It's making me crazy. As I told you, I'm green as they get so I take a night away from the props now and then and practice on stainless. At least I can see positive results on SS. I'll continue to try with the tips you gave me. I may be able to post a successful prop someday! Thank you for all the help.