1st test is on 1/2 inch sch 120, 5 welds (all must xray) have not welded on sch 120 but have welded on sch 80
2nd test 6 inch sch 80, 7018 root,hot, fillers, and cap (not sure if xray, maybe just visual)
both tests in 6G position of coarse
on the 1/2 inch i cant get the root in, it looks like suck back
7018 root is undercutting on the top pipe
Update: Passed the tig test, didnt have to take the stick test. Started working in mid dec. and got laid off feb 7.
that sucks, all that time for nothing, only good thing bout it if i get called back i only have to take a plate test which is alot easier.
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Kingsport, TN job? 
Never took their test, but I have welded the "gun-barrel" (1/2" scd.120). The best root comes from a method that the WPS for your test may not allow, though. I grind to a knife-edge, set the gap about .045, and use E70S-6 MIG wire in .035 for filler. Works like a charm. Using the S-6 compensates for the limited cleaning you can do inside a pipe with that small in I.D. You will want to clean more than usual after the root for the extra silicon islands you'll see. You do have to watch your heat on the second pass (with 1/16" ER70S-2), or it will suck back.
As for the 6" test, I have NO experience with 7018 root on pipe, but some of our European friends can probably advise you.
Steve S
Never took their test, but I have welded the "gun-barrel" (1/2" scd.120). The best root comes from a method that the WPS for your test may not allow, though. I grind to a knife-edge, set the gap about .045, and use E70S-6 MIG wire in .035 for filler. Works like a charm. Using the S-6 compensates for the limited cleaning you can do inside a pipe with that small in I.D. You will want to clean more than usual after the root for the extra silicon islands you'll see. You do have to watch your heat on the second pass (with 1/16" ER70S-2), or it will suck back.
As for the 6" test, I have NO experience with 7018 root on pipe, but some of our European friends can probably advise you.
Steve S
I have just started incorporating 7018 roots in my plate and pipe classes and it is different from 6010 for sure. I have tried to bury the rod and it works for a short run and then the flux on the rod seems to hang up on the wall of the groove and throws my rate of travel off. So I have had more success running a little less land and using a very small motion and melting the wall down. Overhead has caused the most problems because of the lack of arc force there seems to be a tendency to suck back. My roots have been ok but I have not been as consistent as with 6010. My classes are so full that I do not get as much time to practice as I need.
That and I practically have to stand on my head to see through the diopters in my safety glasses.
That and I practically have to stand on my head to see through the diopters in my safety glasses.
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
lazerbeam,
You should have an eye exam, and have prescription safety glasses made. If your work requires safety glasses, and you require glasses to see to do your job, there should be some coverage for that. Even the outfit I work for will kick in $100 every two years for prescription safety glasses.
I had them made as standard bifocals, with the bifocal set VERY high, to make welding easier. I didn't have to "stand on my head" to see through the "near" lens.
They come with fitted side-shields (removeable, if your work allows) that, when your glasses fit right, are far better than "one size fits all" generic safety glasses.
You'll thank yourself.
Steve S
You should have an eye exam, and have prescription safety glasses made. If your work requires safety glasses, and you require glasses to see to do your job, there should be some coverage for that. Even the outfit I work for will kick in $100 every two years for prescription safety glasses.
I had them made as standard bifocals, with the bifocal set VERY high, to make welding easier. I didn't have to "stand on my head" to see through the "near" lens.
They come with fitted side-shields (removeable, if your work allows) that, when your glasses fit right, are far better than "one size fits all" generic safety glasses.
You'll thank yourself.
Steve S
yea its in kingsport, very interesting with the mig wire, not sure if they would allow or not, i did put alot better root in tonight with the half inch so i do feel a little better, i will let u know if i hear anything bout 7018 root, thanks peace outOtto Nobedder wrote:Kingsport, TN job?
Never took their test, but I have welded the "gun-barrel" (1/2" scd.120). The best root comes from a method that the WPS for your test may not allow, though. I grind to a knife-edge, set the gap about .045, and use E70S-6 MIG wire in .035 for filler. Works like a charm. Using the S-6 compensates for the limited cleaning you can do inside a pipe with that small in I.D. You will want to clean more than usual after the root for the extra silicon islands you'll see. You do have to watch your heat on the second pass (with 1/16" ER70S-2), or it will suck back.
As for the 6" test, I have NO experience with 7018 root on pipe, but some of our European friends can probably advise you.
Steve S
yea my 6010 root is just bout flawless, 7018 root is a different ball game, i did nothing but 7018 roots for a solid month and got pretty good but coming back to it now, its like i forgot.lazerbeam wrote:I have just started incorporating 7018 roots in my plate and pipe classes and it is different from 6010 for sure. I have tried to bury the rod and it works for a short run and then the flux on the rod seems to hang up on the wall of the groove and throws my rate of travel off. So I have had more success running a little less land and using a very small motion and melting the wall down. Overhead has caused the most problems because of the lack of arc force there seems to be a tendency to suck back. My roots have been ok but I have not been as consistent as with 6010. My classes are so full that I do not get as much time to practice as I need.
That and I practically have to stand on my head to see through the diopters in my safety glasses.
Im no expert to advice enyone yet but i did month ago 7018root fill and cap and was send to xray and came out cleane and got 6g smaw 6mm 60mm cert.. i do allways side to side motion and overhead 6clock you need to push that rod litle bit inside the pipe for second and then back to groove/bevel side to side and again. Its so hard me to say it englihs. Try it whit tacks at 6clock when you come edge of that tack weld then push rod litle inside the pipe and then start normal side to side motion so that you see keyhole all the time..If you dont move much at all your rod snuff outs..Allso i do fast side to side when coming tacks edge so its heated up to fuse good..I have used to 7018 root and dont know 6010 nothing (its what we are teached to use). I use most time 2mm rod 50-60A 2,5gap knife edge (tiny land sometimes) Hope you understand something 
i think i got what ur saying, i will try that and see what happens thanksAleksi86 wrote:Im no expert to advice enyone yet but i did month ago 7018root fill and cap and was send to xray and came out cleane and got 6g smaw 6mm 60mm cert.. i do allways side to side motion and overhead 6clock you need to push that rod litle bit inside the pipe for second and then back to groove/bevel side to side and again. Its so hard me to say it englihs. Try it whit tacks at 6clock when you come edge of that tack weld then push rod litle inside the pipe and then start normal side to side motion so that you see keyhole all the time..If you dont move much at all your rod snuff outs..Allso i do fast side to side when coming tacks edge so its heated up to fuse good..I have used to 7018 root and dont know 6010 nothing (its what we are teached to use). I use most time 2mm rod 50-60A 2,5gap knife edge (tiny land sometimes) Hope you understand something