Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi all, just picked up my first welder, second hand, apparently never used (even though you can tell it's been fired up at least once from the discoloured look of the cup on the torch). Been watching my way through Jody's videos over the past 5-6 months while at a welding course, got a lot of insight from him / people on here from browsing these forums on occasion.

http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/cloud ... t=3&page=1

WT-200, Chinese, no brand name evident. Would have liked to buy a better machine, but current cashflow dictates otherwise. Apparently 60% duty cycle at 200 amps, according to the instruction manual. Came with a really awesome welding helmet (not) and some comically small gas cups / collet / collet bodies.

Just wondering what are the most common mistakes seen by newbies setting them up, I've so far only welded at a training centre where everything was already setup for me (and I had much nicer machines, with high-freq, up/downslope, pre/postflow and pulse settings). I'm in Australia, also, if that changes anything, just mentioning it.

Also, can anyone give me more info / a webpage with more info about the meaning of all the info on the back sticker? Looking through my books from the welding course I just completed doesn't really mention a lot about the machines themselves, more about the act of welding.

It'll be a while before I set it up for TIG-ing, have to set up my garage as more of a workshop, and build a welding table first, was planning on buying a stinger and doing some stick welding outside with it for that - is that possible with this machine, or should I not try, seeing as it doesn't actually have a switch to turn it from TIG to stick mode. I have access to an oldschool homemade transformer, with no amperage control at all, on/off, my step-dads welding machine if I can't use the TIG for stick.http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/cloud ... t=3&page=1

Just hoping some of you guys will be able to correct some of my deadshit mistakes before I even make them. Thanks to anyone who read all of this

I think the main mistake new tiggers make is wrong consumables.
Tungsten, filler rod, gas, collets, cups and amps. most of the time the machine is set-up incorrectly.....
So check some charts based on the base metal that your welding
so get the right tungsten and filler and scrap metal and practice.....
Good luck John

cloud_2901 wrote:Hi all, just picked up my first welder, second hand, apparently never used (even though you can tell it's been fired up at least once from the discoloured look of the cup on the torch). Been watching my way through Jody's videos over the past 5-6 months while at a welding course, got a lot of insight from him / people on here from browsing these forums on occasion.

http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/cloud ... t=3&page=1

WT-200, Chinese, no brand name evident. Would have liked to buy a better machine, but current cashflow dictates otherwise. Apparently 60% duty cycle at 200 amps, according to the instruction manual. Came with a really awesome welding helmet (not) and some comically small gas cups / collet / collet bodies.

Just wondering what are the most common mistakes seen by newbies setting them up, I've so far only welded at a training centre where everything was already setup for me (and I had much nicer machines, with high-freq, up/downslope, pre/postflow and pulse settings). I'm in Australia, also, if that changes anything, just mentioning it.

Also, can anyone give me more info / a webpage with more info about the meaning of all the info on the back sticker? Looking through my books from the welding course I just completed doesn't really mention a lot about the machines themselves, more about the act of welding.

It'll be a while before I set it up for TIG-ing, have to set up my garage as more of a workshop, and build a welding table first, was planning on buying a stinger and doing some stick welding outside with it for that - is that possible with this machine, or should I not try, seeing as it doesn't actually have a switch to turn it from TIG to stick mode. I have access to an oldschool homemade transformer, with no amperage control at all, on/off, my step-dads welding machine if I can't use the TIG for stick.http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/cloud ... t=3&page=1

Just hoping some of you guys will be able to correct some of my deadshit mistakes before I even make them. Thanks to anyone who read all of this

Hi,I am in the same boat as you ,I bought a chinese fancyname brand welder,with mixed results ,where are you in Oz If you are in Melbourne I can pass you a couple of places that after a bit of research showed to be most affordable ...

Cloud welcome to the forum.

You can stick weld with that machine, just remember to put the stinger in the + slot. When you get ready to tig, just get some 1/16" and 3/32" tungsten and collets and collet bodies and some cups to match, usually 5, 6 or 7's.

What does it say at the bottom of the dial on the right?

The second dial is for post-flow lazer, the one luxury on this machine, if you can even call it that.

I'll definitely need new collets / cups / bodies, the chinese-supplied size is 2mm tungsten, and common sizes sold in Australian shops are 1.6, 2.4 and 3.2mm (i think 3.2mm is the next size up, only used 1.6 / 2.4's at TAFE).

I actually took these photos to the local welding shop, and was told I may need to do some modification in order to stick weld, seeing as it has a different connector for the ground clamp. Lucky I'm doing an introductory electrotechnology course next year, I'll hopefully be able to use this welder as a project for that class. Added some more photos of the connections : http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/cloud ... t=2&page=1

Thanks for the offer also tango, unfortunately I'm down in Hobart, so it'd be a fair hike to get to your preferred stores.

Thanks Mike, been lurking with no account and just trying to find out what I can for a while also.

Thanks also AK, I should hopefully be alright on machine setup for welding itself, it's more the other aspects before switching the machine on, I have never set up a welding machine from scratch, as I have only welded at a training centre.

One other specific question, the lead to plug the welding machine into a power outlet says it requires 15A 250V. Australian standard is 230V / 50hz, is this close enough that I can get away with just installing a 15A outlet?

G'day Cloud,
Your machine rating of 250V states that it is suitable for Australian single phase voltage. If Tassie has only 230V (probably because it broke off the mainland and uses a very long extension chord) that is OK too - it still conforms. It requires a 15A circuit, most domestic circuits are 15A already if you check your circuit breaker even though the power point is 10A. If you are going to set up your workshop, it is wise to have a separate circuit run to your shed using minimum 4mm2 wiring and proper 15A power points to protect inverter electronics and also to keep it separate from your house. This stops the lady of the house from getting upset at those times when boo boo's happen.
Cheers,
Vic.

Thanks coldman, was hoping I wouldn't need to do too much. Will be putting in the correct powerpoints, my stepdad is able to help with that.

One thing I'm still wondering if anyone can shed some light, is it possible to do any harm to the machine by running it on electrode positive, once I change the connections? Is there a reason they would design it to be unable to use electrode positive other than to piss me off?

Hey,cloud ,coldman is right if possible get a separate circuit installed,you should be ok running 2x2.5 + earth with a 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker (that's what I have feeding a weather proof powerpoint at the back of my house) ,but over anything get it done by a certified electrician .
What I did is ,got installed a 20 amp.breaker a 2x2.5 +e running to the powerpoint and in my shed put another small switch board with a safety switch so in case i have any problem It's going to cut close to me .Used 2x2.5 because it's only me working in the shed so only a tool and the lights are going to be running at the same time,but if you think on doing more stuff in the future better go for 2x4mm.