Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
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Hi

One of our customer asked us that, if we could make a little pipe job for them. They make "commodities"(not sure about the word) for pharmaceutical industry.
Job itself isn't that difficult. About 3 metres of pipe with one bend and flange, but material is a bit special. Or should I say less known here in Finland. I already read manufactoring guides for hastelloy and came up that it has quite much common with stainless grades. Oxide layer, austenitic phase, specific heat input and etc.

Nevertheless metallurgy wasn't reason for writing here, but asking some advice. Jody have one helpfull video of nickel alloys, thanks :) Is there something special that should be kept in mind, when working with these alloys? Is there any ppm limits or colouring for root? Normal argon works in shielding gas and in root?
Also what about prizes? Nickel of course is quite expensive, but 250 dollars for(1kg / one package) of (2.4 mm / 3/32) tig rod feels a bit high.

Text may have some grammar erros, but hopefully readable :roll:

-Markus-
-Markus-
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I have no experience with those alloys, but they've been discussed here before, so someone will be along...

I'd pose this question to Jody on the main WT&T page with the "contact us" tab. He's discussed them before, and can guide you. Expect him to take a bit to reply, though.

Steve S
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Otto Nobedder wrote:I have no experience with those alloys, but they've been discussed here before, so someone will be along...

I'd pose this question to Jody on the main WT&T page with the "contact us" tab. He's discussed them before, and can guide you. Expect him to take a bit to reply, though.

Steve S
Ok I'll try to contact Jody.
Thanks

-Markus-

Also found this helpfull topic
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... loy#p16030
-Markus-
Wes917
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It is very similar to stainless, but with less amps needed. I like using a 12 cup, watch your stops it's prone to crater cracking, I tend to come back as I taper off.
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Wes917 wrote:It is very similar to stainless, but with less amps needed. I like using a 12 cup, watch your stops it's prone to crater cracking, I tend to come back as I taper off.
Thanks for the tips :)
-Markus-
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