Welding Tips and Tricks

I have a small job to make 30 "old fashioned style" window closers out of brass. We were discussion either to Solder the parts together or Tig them. I suggested Tiging them cause we wouldn't have to worry about any extra solder washing over exposed areas. but as it uses .035 wall square tube, and a slide moves inside i cant distort them either. These are show pieces so they have to look nice and the less sanding/rework at the end of the job the better. My plan is to fuse the pieces with no filler, but i might mess up and require some anyways.

are there any special requirements for TIGing 260? What kind of gas should be used, type of tungsten and Filler if needed.

I have Pure Tugsten, 2% thoriated, and 2% Lanthanated and Straight Argon. Will this be enough?

So no one has really TIGed this stuff before? We chose this 260 cause McMaster Carr listed it as having excellent Tiging properties.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-weld-brass.html
And Alcobra's website says that 260 is one of the least weldable brass alloys, with terrible butt welding characteristics.

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I would TIG silver solder these brass joints. Either thoriated or lanthanated electrodes are ok, sharpen them to a needle point. Coat the surfaces to be joined with silver solder flux and use at least 30% silver solder, 1/16" or smaller. Less silver will work too but will not be pretty. Make sure there are no gaps in mating surfaces and held together while soldering.
A foot pedal control will be very useful here, you only want the least amount of heat into the brass to melt the solder, this temperature can be approached carefully with the pedal. Keep your arc moving forward and back along the joint (no weaving) until the brass melts the solder. Don't try to melt the solder with the arc. If you leave the arc still, you will melt or deform the brass. If you do it right, the solder will run into the joint without spreading across the visible surface which would indicate excessive heat. When you see the solder run along the joint stop adding solder - it has enough. Allow to cool and wash off flux residue with water and scouring pad. Drink beer at this point.
The soldered joint will be very strong.
Try a practice piece first. Good luck and let us know how you go.

By the way, oxy/acet soldering will work too with a No.8 (metric) tip but is likely to cause tarnishing that may not polish off. Also you won't be able to fuse the brass pieces successfully without filler regardless of method.