Welding Tips and Tricks

Alright so I have a serious problem.
So my work sent me to welding school to get Tig Qualifications. I already have SMAW qualifications.
I feel like I'm pretty skilled with SMAW but when I use TIG it's a whole other world.
So my teacher is trying to kick me out of class unless I start putting down good beads. And I've only been on it for 2 days, which is unfair for a beginner.
But anyways.. I have to put down a 1/4 bead about 12" long on 1/4" flat bar T joint. On both sides of the T. Then two beads on top of that to create a 3/8's bead and three on top of that to make 5/8's bead.
I can get the 1/4 bead size but it has serious undercut.
My teacher says to move slower but I feel like I can't move any slower.
My weld box is at 160 amps. I try moving slow and add filler metal but it still has undercut.
Any tips, tricks, advice, or anything will help.
I can not fail the school.
Please help.

Have you watched Jody's YouTube videos? They helped me quite a bit when I was taking a TIG class. Much easier to understand with the video rather than trying to understand through only text.

Start here - http://welding-tv.com/category/tig-welding/

Try lowering your amperage to around 120 to 130 and see if you can run easier there.
Running a hot machine ain't worth shit if your filler hand can't keep up with it.
As long as you're making a puddle at the lower amps you should be fine.

BTW, no two machines run exactly the same.

Welcome to the forum Brandon.

I consider my tig welding experience between a beginner and novice. With that said, what position does the t-joint have to be welded? Also is it setup as a groove or fillet weld? The machine you are using; does it use a water-cooled torch, and what is its max amperage? Also, what size and type of tungsten will be used? Also, is the coupon aluminum or steel?

As for work angles and travel angles. They are pretty much the same as stick welding. And, pushing with tig. Keep the filler within the shielding gas while welding, and after extinguishing the arc to cool the tip of the filler rod. If welding the t-joint in the horizontal position, Jody has mentioned adding filler metal towards the top-corner lead edge of the puddle will help with under cut. And, you may like welding 1/4" at 200 amps to get the puddle formed faster and keeping the HAZ from getting too big. When adding filler it also acts like a chill bar to the puddle, so dipping fairly often helps control any excessive heat buildup. And, the moment the weld puddle forms and the root breaks down add filler and move forward. Jody mentions you will see what looks like an old-time key hole just start to form when the root breaks down. Your travel angle will be around 75-80 degrees pushing with your work angles being like stick welding for root,
hot pass, etc..

Here are some tech manuals; they have a lot of information to help you setup the tungsten, machine, shielding gas cfh, etc. And, as mentioned watch Jody's tig welding videos.
http://www.ckworldwide.com/technical_specs.pdf
https://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/gtawbook.pdf
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig ... ideos.html

BrandonSpringle wrote:Alright so I have a serious problem.
So my work sent me to welding school to get Tig Qualifications. I already have SMAW qualifications.
I feel like I'm pretty skilled with SMAW but when I use TIG it's a whole other world.
So my teacher is trying to kick me out of class unless I start putting down good beads. And I've only been on it for 2 days, which is unfair for a beginner.
But anyways.. I have to put down a 1/4 bead about 12" long on 1/4" flat bar T joint. On both sides of the T. Then two beads on top of that to create a 3/8's bead and three on top of that to make 5/8's bead.
I can get the 1/4 bead size but it has serious undercut.
My teacher says to move slower but I feel like I can't move any slower.
My weld box is at 160 amps. I try moving slow and add filler metal but it still has undercut.
Any tips, tricks, advice, or anything will help.
I can not fail the school.
Please help.

Undercut in this case may be "under fill" - with that much amperage you make a nice puddle, put enough rod in on each dip to fill it up.
A few pics of the offending weld make it easier for guys with more experience than me to help you.
At a glance, some can tell you what you did wrong.

Include all the info: tungsten size/type/grind profile, cup, cfh argon, amps, filler rod size and type, weld position.

Easiest way to correct a problem is have the teacher verbally coach you through a weld over your shoulder.
That's how I teach guys and my kids.

The welding course consists of...
Mild steel
Horizontal T joint fillet weld 1/4" bead, 3/8's bead, and 5/8's bead.
Vertical T joint fillet weld 1/4" bead, 3/8's bead, and 5/8's bead.
Overhead T joint fillet weld 1/4" bead, 3/8's bead, and 5/8's bead.
Then Test on Beveled Butt weld in the 6G position.
Stainless steel
Then Test on Beveled Butt weld in the 6G position.
Aluminum
Test on Horizontal grooved butt weld
Test on Vertical grooved butt weld
Test on Overhead groove butt weld

And all the tests get X-rayed.

But when I do my horizontal 3/8's and 5/8's they look perfect with no undercut. It's just my 1/4" beads.
I got the slowing down but I can't figure out the distance from the puddle I need to be. My instructor says as close as possible. But when I do that , the puddle is extremely small and hard to dip filler metal into. Or contaminating the tungsten.

Thanks for the help everyone.

That's too close then. As close as possible should be amended to approx 1 to 1.5 the tungsten diameter for arc length.

That's the most common length I see listed.

You omitted: tungsten size/type/grind profile, cup, cfh argon, amps, filler rod size and type.

If you're using an 1/8 inch tungsten, the tip of the point will be 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch above the puddle. Which as mentioned previously the tungsten is placed 1 to 1.5 times the diameter of the tungsten above the puddle. For a 3/32 tungsten it is placed 3/32 to 9/64 of an inch above the puddle.

It is not critical that you are exactly these distances, but need to try and maintain this rough distance to be able to focus the arc into the root. Lastly, have you watched any of the tig welding videos on weldingtipsandtricks.com yet? Because tig welding eventually just clicks by mimicking how Jody manipulates the torch when you are welding fillets, etc.

Welcome to the forum Brandon.