Welding Tips and Tricks

I just bought a new Everlast PowerTIG 200DV and learning how GTAW on my own with the help of Jody's vids. I also bought an SSC foot pedal, WP-9 and 17 torch with the SuperFlex cable for it. I only have a 110V power source in my detached garage (I live in an apartment).

The arc starts fine in both lift and HF; and the current control is pretty much linear except then fully depressed. I tried both pedals—the one that came with the welder and the SSC—and they both sputter when fully depressed. I was using a 9 torch. Although I have a 17 and 26 torch, I haven't tried them out since the machine can only do 125A in 110V. The sputter is like I have pulse on. I think this machine can limit the max amps for the pedal by setting it on the welder. I tried it from 60A to 125A but it always sputters. I also used a DMM to check the resistance of the potentiometer and they seem fine. Anyone experienced this before?

First thing I would do is contact Everlast.

That's what I'm actually planning to do on Monday.

What do they sweep to? Typically (on mine at least) I saw 47.1kOhm to 4-5 ohms on the low side. You have to make sure both are sweeping equally. If the pot turned in the pedal, which happened to mine, it doesn't read correctly.

That being said, with two different pedals behaving identically then I doubt either pedal is the culprit.

Have you looked on the panel to verify that it is limiting amperage? Typically it will show what you're welding at with the pedal depressed and an arc initiated.

GreinTime wrote:What do they sweep to? Typically (on mine at least) I saw 47.1kOhm to 4-5 ohms on the low side. You have to make sure both are sweeping equally. If the pot turned in the pedal, which happened to mine, it doesn't read correctly.

That being said, with two different pedals behaving identically then I doubt either pedal is the culprit.

Have you looked on the panel to verify that it is limiting amperage? Typically it will show what you're welding at with the pedal depressed and an arc initiated.

The SSC sweeps from 0-50K and the other 0~20k. And from 50k-0 and ~20k-0 on the other side of the pot. The max resistance during the sweep matches the resistance of the actual resistor. I also opened them up to see if there's anything wrong but they seemed okay. So I think that the pedals are fine too.

I tried looking at the display but my autodark helmet flickers, making it hard to actually see the display. I'll do more testing later today with all my torches and the torch switch to confirm that it is the welder.

Did you try using the torch switch instead of the pedal. That will put you directly to max set amps. Any sputtering then, what about with stick mode?

The easiest way to do it is just block the arc with one hand and just look without your helmet because typically the sensors can't pick up 90degrees away from the arc

I just finished ~2.5hrs of seat time and some testing. I'm using gas lenses for all my torches with #7 cup. 110/120V power source. 3/32 2%L Tungsten. 25ft Superflex cable for the 17 and 9. And 12.5ft regular cable for the 26.

Here are some of my observations:
1. I have to bump up my Argon flow to at least 15cfh.
2. My 26 and 17 torches work great even at 120A. No problems with either the switch or the pedal. I can max out the pedal without sputtering.
3. The 9 torch works great even at 120A with the switch in 4T mode. And only up to 100A with the pedal. Every once in a while, it can manage 120A without sputtering with the pedal fully depressed.
4. Under 100A, with the pedal, all torches display up to 100A with the pedal all the way down. For some reason, when I set the machine over 100A, even with the pedal fully depressed, they don't reach the max current that I set.

One big mistake that I did while testing was not to take notes. I'm just going over what I can remember. So I might have to do a more controlled testing in a couple of days. Create an evaluation table with Pass/Fail for each cell and share the results with you guys.

I'm willing to bet that you're problem is the available input current. Per the specifications on the Everlast website. You need a 30 amp 110vac circuit for max amps. 31 amp in-rush, 25 amp continuous. If you are plugged into a standard 110plug, you are getting 15 to 20 amps max depending on the breaker.

There is most likely NOTHING Wrong with your machine. Run it on the proper input current before blaming the machine. Even better, go try it on 220vac 30 or 50amp circuit!

When all the manufacturers put the standard 15 amp plug on the adapter it misleads the public. It should at least have the a 20 amp (one prong twisted 90° ) to force people to use at least closer to the correct amps.

soutthpaw wrote:I'm willing to bet that you're problem is the available input current. Per the specifications on the Everlast website. You need a 30 amp 110vac circuit for max amps. 31 amp in-rush, 25 amp continuous. I'd you are plugged into a standard 110plug, you are getting 15 to 20 amps max depending on the breaker.

There is most likely NOTHING Wrong with your machine. Run it on the proper input current before blaming the machine. Even better, go try it on 220vac 30 or 50amp circuit!

When all the manufacturers out the standard 15 amp plug on the adapter it misleads the public. It should at least have the a 20 amp (one purring twisted 90° ) to force people to use at least closer to the correct amps.

Good thought and catch.
-Jonathan

soutthpaw wrote:I'm willing to bet that you're problem is the available input current. Per the specifications on the Everlast website. You need a 30 amp 110vac circuit for max amps. 31 amp in-rush, 25 amp continuous. If you are plugged into a standard 110plug, you are getting 15 to 20 amps max depending on the breaker.

There is most likely NOTHING Wrong with your machine. Run it on the proper input current before blaming the machine. Even better, go try it on 220vac 30 or 50amp circuit!

When all the manufacturers put the standard 15 amp plug on the adapter it misleads the public. It should at least have the a 20 amp (one prong twisted 90° ) to force people to use at least closer to the correct amps.

What bugs me is that my 26 torch doesn't sputter at 120A but my 9 torch does. However, if I hold a very very short arc with my 9 torch, the "sputtering" stops. Since I'm just learning to TIG for some chassis and exhaust repairs with my BMW, I think that I'll rarely, if ever, go over 100A; but it'll be great to ensure that there's nothing wrong with my machine.

I think you're right but I just don't know how I'm gonna test it with 220V myself, for I live in an apartment. I'll check with my LWS if they're kind enough to test it for me.

So also because of insufficient input current, when I set the machine over 100A, I cannot get 100% of it even with the pedal fully depressed or with the torch switch? I can get 80A when I set it on 80A, and 90A on 90A. But I only get 97A with a 100A setting, 103A with 110A, and 108A with 120A.

A 9 series torch is rated lower than a 26 series and has a smaller gauge power cable which would create more resistance to current flow than the larger gauge cable in a 26 series torch. All things being equal. Thus you need more input power to achieve the same output due to higher resistance. Ohms law. Can't break the laws of physics you know

Additionally, by closing arc gap you are lowering the amount of voltage required to sustain the current at any given point which is why the sputtering goes out. That in turn ties in with what southpaw said about cable size as well.

learning to keep a tight arc will also help you weld better.

I think everyone is missing something here.

The OP can set the machine for 90A OR 120A, and the machine sputters at full pedal, whether the pedal is 20K or 50K. I'll wager he can set it to 40A for some sch. 10, and have the same problem.

The pot in the pedal is a voltage divider, and when the "sweep" signal line sees the full 5VDC, the machine falters. This is a machine board problem, not a pedal problem, nor a torch problem, etc, etc.

How'd the call to Everlast go?

Steve S

Well, he said in the bottom of post #8 that the 17&26 torches work fine with either the switch or the pedal, but couldn't go over 100 with the 9 torch and the pedal, but could with the switch.

Problem solved, I think.

I was busy these past weeks, for I work full time during the day and go to school at nights with one Saturday morning class. I had a hard time squeezing in my testing time for this welder. What struck me is my 26 torch is now doing the same problem. Here are the videos I took:

With the SSC pedal: http://youtu.be/bfOvT6g9rns
With the torch switch 2T mode: http://youtu.be/17m6FfXhk0s
With the torch switch 4T mode: http://youtu.be/WZT6lchB428

I was using the 26 torch at that time with at least 15cfh, 3/32 2% Lanthanated Tungsten, gas lens and a #7 nozzle.

At first, the Everlast Tech guy suspected that the arc was being blown out. I was like, really? Gas flow differs when I use a pedal than a torch switch? So I sent him a follow up email and I pointed out the current loss when going over 100A. He responded that because of the resistance from the tungsten, ground clamp, argon flow, and/or workpiece that I don't get that max current that I set. He also added that my pedals are faulty then. At this point, I'm hesitant to send them both out for service, because it is very unlikely that they're both faulty.

So I surfed the web and referred back to soutthpaw's comment. I suspected that either my ground clamp sucks and/or my power is insufficient. I realized that I was using a 100ft 14ga extension cord for my welder so I bought a 400A all-brass ground clamp from HF and a 25ft 10ga extension cord.

And now everything, I'd think, works great. Even with the 9 torch and pedal setup, I can go 120A without that "sputter." I am now also getting 100% of that 120A setting.

HAHA STEVE!!!!! (Maybe) Southpaw and I win this one!!!!!

LooWee200 wrote:Problem solved, I think.

I was busy these past weeks, for I work full time during the day and go to school at nights with one Saturday morning class. I had a hard time squeezing in my testing time for this welder. What struck me is my 26 torch is now doing the same problem. Here are the videos I took:

With the SSC pedal: http://youtu.be/bfOvT6g9rns
With the torch switch 2T mode: http://youtu.be/17m6FfXhk0s
With the torch switch 4T mode: http://youtu.be/WZT6lchB428

I was using the 26 torch at that time with at least 15cfh, 3/32 2% Lanthanated Tungsten, gas lens and a #7 nozzle.

At first, the Everlast Tech guy suspected that the arc was being blown out. I was like, really? Gas flow differs when I use a pedal than a torch switch? So I sent him a follow up email and I pointed out the current loss when going over 100A. He responded that because of the resistance from the tungsten, ground clamp, argon flow, and/or workpiece that I don't get that max current that I set. He also added that my pedals are faulty then. At this point, I'm hesitant to send them both out for service, because it is very unlikely that they're both faulty.

So I surfed the web and referred back to soutthpaw's comment. I suspected that either my ground clamp sucks and/or my power is insufficient. I realized that I was using a 100ft 14ga extension cord for my welder so I bought a 400A all-brass ground clamp from HF and a 25ft 10ga extension cord.

And now everything, I'd think, works great. Even with the 9 torch and pedal setup, I can go 120A without that "sputter." I am now also getting 100% of that 120A setting.

Glad I could help. Always start with the basics.

GreinTime wrote:HAHA STEVE!!!!! (Maybe) Southpaw and I win this one!!!!!

Well. someone must win, right?