Never held a welding in my life and these were my attempts to teach myself TIG welding with Everlast's PowerTIG 200DV.
A couple of hours per day with a 1/4" x 2 C1018 flat bar:
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
I only have a 110V source so I need to practice on 1/8" bars next time, for I can only go 120A max. I haven't been inside a steel supplier's warehouse ever and I was like a kid in a candy store. I just discovered that I can buy surplus steel from them after buying 5 pcs of 1/8" x 3in x 12in flats So I got myself 24lbs of ~1/8" steel (hot rolled, I think) plates to practice with; but I just figured that I cannot use a 6in wheel in a 4in angle grinder. It vibrates like crazy and it's not safe.
Any suggestions to maximize the use out of a material for practicing butt welds, lap joints, and fillets?
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
- weldin mike 27
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
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Location:Australia; Victoria
I see a definite improvement day by day. Coming along nicely.
Cheers.
-Eldon
Cheers.
-Eldon
We are not lawyers nor physicians, but welders do it in all positions!
Miller Dynasty 280DX
Lincoln 210 MP
Miller 625 X-Treme
Hobart Handler 150
Victor Oxygen-acetylene torch
Miller/Lincoln Big 40-SA200 hybrid
Miller Dynasty 280DX
Lincoln 210 MP
Miller 625 X-Treme
Hobart Handler 150
Victor Oxygen-acetylene torch
Miller/Lincoln Big 40-SA200 hybrid
rule #1 for tig: take a grinding disk or a very coarse flap disc and grind the millscale off.
Check your post-flow settting. The pimple trying to pop up at the end of the welds is porosity from white-hot steel coming in contact with oxygen in the air. make sure you try to hold a arc length equal to the tungsten diameter and hold the torch there for a few seconds after extinguishing the arc. Let me guess, you're using a tiny #4 cup?
Check your post-flow settting. The pimple trying to pop up at the end of the welds is porosity from white-hot steel coming in contact with oxygen in the air. make sure you try to hold a arc length equal to the tungsten diameter and hold the torch there for a few seconds after extinguishing the arc. Let me guess, you're using a tiny #4 cup?
Actually a #7, gas lens, with at least 15cfh, 3/32" 2% Blue tip electrode. These welds were prior to my fixes to properly setup the welder. I had a problem with insufficient power before when using the pedal; so I went ahead and brought a 400A all brass ground clamp and ditched my 100ft 14ga orange extension (I know, using that long thin extension for a welder was stupid) for a 25 ft 10ga contractors extension cord. I'll post my pics again soon with that better setup.Oscar wrote:rule #1 for tig: take a grinding disk or a very coarse flap disc and grind the millscale off.
Check your post-flow setting. The pimple trying to pop up at the end of the welds is porosity from white-hot steel coming in contact with oxygen in the air. make sure you try to hold a arc length equal to the tungsten diameter and hold the torch there for a few seconds after extinguishing the arc. Let me guess, you're using a tiny #4 cup?
jwright650
- jwright650
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Ace
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Posts:
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Joined:Wed Dec 03, 2014 3:27 pm
Keeping the torch in place after the arc is extinguished is tough.....I find myself getting in too big of a hurry and not leaving the torch in place to keep shielding gas covering the hot puddle...and I end up with those "pimples" sometimes.Oscar wrote: Check your post-flow settting. The pimple trying to pop up at the end of the welds is porosity from white-hot steel coming in contact with oxygen in the air. make sure you try to hold a arc length equal to the tungsten diameter and hold the torch there for a few seconds after extinguishing the arc.
John Wright
AWS Certified Welding Inspector
NDT Level II UT, VT, MT and PT
NACE CIP Level I Coating Inspector
AWS Certified Welding Inspector
NDT Level II UT, VT, MT and PT
NACE CIP Level I Coating Inspector
If there is zero draft you can get away with less argon flow than that. I've dialed it down to less than 10 CFH on a #7 gas lens if I keep the stick out short enough. If you have an extended tungsten stick out then you can keep it as is. Just saying .LooWee200 wrote:Actually a #7, gas lens, with at least 15cfh, 3/32" 2% Blue tip electrode. These welds were prior to my fixes to properly setup the welder. I had a problem with insufficient power before when using the pedal; so I went ahead and brought a 400A all brass ground clamp and ditched my 100ft 14ga orange extension (I know, using that long thin extension for a welder was stupid) for a 25 ft 10ga contractors extension cord. I'll post my pics again soon with that better setup.Oscar wrote:rule #1 for tig: take a grinding disk or a very coarse flap disc and grind the millscale off.
Check your post-flow setting. The pimple trying to pop up at the end of the welds is porosity from white-hot steel coming in contact with oxygen in the air. make sure you try to hold a arc length equal to the tungsten diameter and hold the torch there for a few seconds after extinguishing the arc. Let me guess, you're using a tiny #4 cup?
That's just a self discipline issue.jwright650 wrote:Keeping the torch in place after the arc is extinguished is tough.....I find myself getting in too big of a hurry and not leaving the torch in place to keep shielding gas covering the hot puddle...and I end up with those "pimples" sometimes.
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