Welding Tips and Tricks

Im new to the forum and could use some help for settings on the ta186 as far as rule of 33 goes. there is high current, low current, frequency, and on time percentage. Can someone explain this a little more please?

THANKS

Sure.

There are three parameters to pulse TIG... Peak time (the amount of each pulse that's at your "set at the dial" power), Background (While "not" at peak, this is the current the rest of the time), and frequency (how many times per second these changes occur).

As an example, using Jody's rule of 33, if your machine is set for 99 amps, 33% peak time, and 33% background, and one pulse per second (indulge me), your machine will make 99 amps for one-third of a second (33% of the time), and 33 amps (33% of the peak value) for the other two-thirds of a second, then repeat.

Everything else is about how many pulses per second, and the above rules follow it as far as the machine will go (I've used 400Hz, but didn't get to experiment with it).

Steve S

My choices are high current, low current, pulse width, and pulse freq. So high current would be 99. Low current would be 33. On time or pulse width would be 33 and freq would be 33. Is this correct? Thanks for the reply!

Yes, Hollywood,

Based on my example, your numbers are correct.

Steve S

Thank you sir!

Gonna try to explain the pulse width to you a little. Better at talking this out with pictures. The pulse frequency is how many times a second the machine goes from high current to low current. so let's say you set frequency 33 that's 33 times a second. ok so you have 33 waves. Now let's just think of looking at one of those waves. that wave has a time frame also how long it's in high current and how long in low current. that is pulse width if set at 33 Then 33% of time it will be welding on full High current then drop to low current. On the TA186 you can set width 15% to 80%. pulse frequency goes .5 to 200Hz hope that makes sense to you If not we will try to explain it more.

I never tried the 33% thing on it

How long have you had the TA186. I have one and love it. For the price it out does everything in its price range. only complaint I had was the torch which got replaced right away then added quick disconnects on gas to switch out torches

I just got the machine. Thanks for all the advice. Are you running a 50 amp breaker. Im trying to run a 30.

Yes I have mine on a 50 amp on one line and 100 amp on a different line. Depending where in shop I use it at.

Did you get the pedal with it?

If you have trouble with that big torch and heavy cable HTP or usaweld.com has CK torches with the fancy flex line. If you need any help or advice I can try to help you as best I can. There is a lot of good knowledge folks here at WT&T forum. I lurked for a long time before joining. This forum doesn't deal in putting people down or just trying to one up them plus Jody puts out some of the best learning vids I seen. I look forward to watching every week. Even if it's something I don't do (stick welding) or something I know pretty well I still watch and always find something to learn from it.

Thanks for all your knowledge. I really like this machine.

Hollywood1 wrote:Thanks for all your knowledge. I really like this machine.

Put up a picture or two, once your comfortable with it!

Steve S

Yes, I will. Thanks again. John

Here is some .070 stainless. Could use some pointers.

Hollywood1 wrote:Here is some .070 stainless. Could use some pointers.

No, you don't... That looks fine. You just need seat time with the machine... Practice.

The color/heat is an effect of how small the materials you're practicing on are. If you clamp pieces like that in the corner of some aluminum angle to carry the heat, you'll simulate welding larger material.

Steve S

Thanks. Only have about 2 hrs on the welder and about 16 total tig hours. I currently have a small gas leak inside machine. One of the fittings is loose slightly. Im not sure how to get in there or if I should just send it to repair which will take sometime.

Here is one more picture.

Hollywood,
A small leak in the gas system will cause you all manner of headaches. One would think that a pressurized system could never draw in atmosphere, but nothing could be further from the truth it will siphon in when the rush of gas is expelled when the gas valve opens. This is then introduced to your weld.

I don't know what your mechanical abilities are ,so please don't think I'm talking down to you, we have people of all levels of experience here. Don't be intimidated about taking the cover off the machine, usually just a handful of screws and the gas system on most newer machines are push to connect fittings and just need to be seated better. If you have to tighten any fittings I would suggest that you use Teflon thread tape. Just be careful not to over tighten anything with plastic fittings.

If you get into trouble, just throw a picture up and somebody here will walk you through it.

Len

I have had my side panel off. If you remove screws on the bottom, the side that the argon supply is on, then just loosen the screws that run down side you can slip the Bottom cover off. The argon supply is easy to access on that side. All you have is the brass fitting on front. Then a flexible hose that runs to solenoid followed by flexible line to fitting on rear of machine. the front fitting to me likes to move around when tightening the torch on it. The lock washer on that fitting just doesn't secure it that great. I added a quick disconnect to machine due to this. I was gonna just put the quick disconnect on front panel, but currently just have a small piece of hose with the flare fitting screwed into Machine with quick disconnect on other end. I change torches quite a bit from a 17 to 9 and didn't want to screw fitting up. When machine out of warranty will prolly just put quick disconnect on front panel. The quick disconnects work great and saves wear on fittings.

Out of curiosity what makes you think there is a leak internally.

You can hear a small leak inside when machine is off. I turn off the bottle and leave pressure in the line, within 20 seconds both regulator needles are on 0.

Thanks everyone for the help. I think I will pull cover off tomorrow. I really like this machine other than this small leak problem. John

Im very happy I joined this forum. A lot of smart people here and I appreciate the advice.

Yep you got a leak I had mine keep line pressure for several days. You prolly checked this already but make sure it's not leaking around regulator and tank. I have had trouble with a couple of tanks sealing on regulators. I normally don't leave pressure in line. I turn off tank hit purge let it bleed down then back regulator off. If I am just taking a break then I turn tank off but don't bleed system.

I was trying to remember if the hose clamps where the crimp style or just the ones that spread out in machine. If I remember right they where crimp style and hopefully you can just snug them up. I might be confusing myself though cause I used crimp styles when changing torch fittings for disconnects.

Well I found the leak. Hose is split right where the crimp fitting is at the back. Any recommendations on where and what type of hose to get?

You could call Thermal Arc 1-800-426-1888 since it is a brand new machine they will repair it under warranty. Due to liability reasons prolly won't send you parts but send you to a dealer. The other option is call 1-800-USA-WELD they have gas line in stock by foot along with clamps in stock. They will prolly have you talk to Paul at USA weld

I appreciate the info dirtmiget! Thankyou.

Hollywood1 wrote:Here is one more picture.

Try and tighten up your stack, shoot for 3x as many dimes in that same length of bead. Otherwise, looking good