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Rick_H
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Well I received my Flexloc and Gas Saver today, wow is that thing large...lol

So far I really like it, allows me to hold the torch very comfortably and being able to see through the cup gave me at least another 30-40° with out putting my body in a weird position welding pipe.

The upgraded hose is also very nice, and I'm digging the wedge collet.
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I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
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Rick,
I use the same torch at work and at home, one at work has the valve for scratch start and one at home's a water cooled without the valve.
I have both #2 and #3 heads at home and use a #3 with a stubby at work. My only complaint is the water doesn't circulate through the head on my water cooled one so it can still get a little warm. My air cooled one at work has been hot enough to melt the knob that locks the head about 5 times now. The stubby lens limits it to about 130-140 amps and schedule XXS likes it a bit hotter so I've been using my old 17 torch to do my caps lately.

All in all though I like them.

I have the smaller gas saver and pyrex but hardly ever use them, not sure why.

Len
Now go melt something.
Instagram @lenny_gforce

Len
Rick_H
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Good Info, thanks Len... I remember Jody saying something about that Knob in a video, I'll have to grab a few spares. I was welding sanitary 316L so I was at a whopping 48amps, the extra gas coverage actually made a big difference over my #8 cup, I actually didn't think I'd see anything noticeable.

I'm anxious to get into something awkward to see what I can do with it...

I assume your getting a good coating of this white crap too? So far only 4" here but its coming down good.
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
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Yes more stupid f-ing snow.

Len


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Now go melt something.
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Len
motox
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about four here as well.
snowing like crazy
WTF
craig
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
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Rick_H
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We have 9" now still snowing....work closed for B shift so I've played with the kids now I'm drinking some brews chilling in the hot tub ;)
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
motox
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rick
8" here still snowing
sounds awesome but no hot tube pics necessary... lol
craig
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
Rick_H
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motox wrote:rick
8" here still snowing
sounds awesome but no hot tube pics necessary... lol
craig
Lol...
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
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Braehill wrote:Rick,
I use the same torch at work and at home, one at work has the valve for scratch start and one at home's a water cooled without the valve.
I have both #2 and #3 heads at home and use a #3 with a stubby at work. My only complaint is the water doesn't circulate through the head on my water cooled one so it can still get a little warm. My air cooled one at work has been hot enough to melt the knob that locks the head about 5 times now. The stubby lens limits it to about 130-140 amps and schedule XXS likes it a bit hotter so I've been using my old 17 torch to do my caps lately.

All in all though I like them.

I have the smaller gas saver and pyrex but hardly ever use them, not sure why.

Len
Do you use the knob to lock the torch head in place, or do you use the set-knob-twist-torch-head-30° to get it locked in place? The latter method will get a better contact between the head and the torch body which will transfer heat better.
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motox
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oscar
I've been doing i version of your 30 degree locking method
but doing it because my aging fingers have a time making it tight.
did it first time by accident.
i didn't realize it had benefits
craig
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
Rick_H
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I use the twist 30 degrees to lock as well, easiest way to get it tight.
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
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motox wrote:oscar
I've been doing i version of your 30 degree locking method
but doing it because my aging fingers have a time making it tight.
did it first time by accident.
i didn't realize it had benefits
craig
When it comes to electrical conductivity, tighter is better since it also transfers heat better at the same time. Of course you have to be careful, since the threads are brass, or in my case brass/copper for the body/head since I use a Weldtec i-head Rotohead.
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Oscar,
Trust me, it's not overheating because it's loose, it's overheating because I work the snot out of it. I usually weld pipe that's schedule 80- XXS (boiler tube) and that taxes an old 17 series torch let alone the Flex-Loc with a stubby gas lens on it.

I currently have a knob made out of Plastidip on it and it's lasted way longer than any of the factory made ones, it gets soft but doesn't melt and fall off.

Len
Now go melt something.
Instagram @lenny_gforce

Len
Hollywood1
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That torch looks pretty nice!
Hollywood1
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Does your back cap not screw quite all the way up againt the body like my pyrex setup is? I have a little over an 1/8th of an inch gap when tight installed correctly.
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Hollywood,
The back cap should tighten up on the collet before it tightens up against the back of the torch head, if it tighten against the torch head first, it couldn't torque the collet. As long as the o-ring is in past the body it should do the sealing.

Len
Now go melt something.
Instagram @lenny_gforce

Len
Hollywood1
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Thank you for the info Len. I learned something new.
massacre
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I am using a CK flex lock Torch also with Pyrex cup.
I love it works great!
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