AHP200x Review/summary
Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 4:37 pm
Review and summary of AHP AlphaTIG 200X
I originally posted this review over at WeldingWeb. com , I was told by the mangagement that it would be okay to post it here. Please be aware I am just a long time hobby welder and have no financial or other reimbursement agreements with AHP past or present. The machines will be getting returned to AHP at some point, however they are currently happy to leave them with us for long term evaluation.
The original thread can be found here: http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?45 ... ost5706981
So, I’ve had the opportunity to use these machines the last few months. Recently getting the 2015 model. The primay goal was to see if they are a decent TIG welder at their very attractive price of $800. Obviously, I was not expecting it to be a Miller Dynasty. AHP does not claim this either. They clearly state this is designed for the home and hobby user. I would say it would be suitable for an occasional use machine is a small shop setting too. I didn’t do many videos on the operation of the machine because folks like Chucke2009, Kevin Caron, Jody etc. make much better videos. The videos that I do post are to either show something I don’t see others doing/evaluating, or to address a specific question or issue.
I was able to get Shovelon, a respected member on the WeldingWeb forum to agree to demo this machine too. I am sure he will share his own thoughts. His approach is different in that he looks totally at the ROI from a business standpoint. If the machine ran daily for 6 months, he got his money’s worth and the machine paid for itself. Though I remind you it was not intended to be an industrial machine. Anyone who knows Shovelon is aware he has no love for Chinese made machines but at the same time is honest guy and more importantly, should have divinity status when it comes to his TIG welding ability. With tens of thousands of hours under the hood, I was pleased he agreed to do this
Initially I was going to use it then wait for doing a review at the end. However, it seemed more interesting to share as we went along. (see above linked thread) Most of the time was spent with the 2014 model but I have covered that pretty well. So instead of rehashing that part, I’ll just address the improvements in the 2015 model.
2015 model Improvements vs 2014 model
• Adjustable AC Frequency to 200Htz is obviously the #1 improvement. Personally I would choose adjustable frequency over the included slow speed pulse or the 2T/4T settings any day.
• The torch trigger/foot pedal button was removed from the 15’ model and replaced with an auto sensing circuit. This is good as it removes a source of confusion and problems for users. Keep in mind may who buy this machine may be quite new to welding.
• The welding cable Dinse 25 plugs were replaced with industry standard Dinse 50 plugs. For anyone that already owns another set of leads, this is a big plus. For example I have a nice set of 25’ Stick leads that I can now connect direct to the torch. 2015 cable is on top measures .455" daimeter vs .380" of the older one.
• The torch was upgraded to a heavier duty cable, zippered cover and different button along with having a Dinse 50 power connection with attached gas line inlet that connects separately to a quick connect port. Note: I was told the male fittings for the gas line are always in stock and can be ordered from AHP should you want to add a water cooled torch or upgrade to a CK torch etc. (Might want to add one when you order a machine if you are thinking of going that route. )
• The torch is now a Flex Head style torch.
• Internally, my only gripe on the 14’ was the leading end of the circuit board was not supported. A support bracket was added to the 2015 model. Note: that I’m not an electronics guy so my assessment of internal components is limited.
• The machine also received several internal component/internal upgrades to improve reliability/performance…
How does it weld?
Most welders seem to be sold as a TIG welder that can do stick or a Stick welder that can do TIG. Few excel equally at both. This is a TIG welder that can do stick. However it does it pretty well. If it had Arc Force and Hot Start, I think it could be a machine that does both well. I have been told no further changes are going to be made to this design other than those to correct functional/operational issues. The machine is also built to be a budget machine and adding too much extra stuff would make it too expensive to meet that target.
That said it does stick weld better than my Everlast PowerTIG 185. It does run E6010 quite satisfactorily. Very little problem with keeping the arc lit; the primary issue with many inverters. The machine was built with a larger transformer that seems to give it a rather forceful arc. I was told this was done to make it easier for beginners to learn stick welding. Using 7018 I tended to run on the low end of the range for the specified rod. Thinner material it does seem to dig too much but it would be fine for occasional stick or for learning the process on. The work clamp has pressed steel contact points but does have a nice wide woven copper strap connecting both points of the clamp. If you push the clamp all the way onto the work and have the copper strap pressing against the workpiece that can benefit giving you an even better connection. The electrode clamp seems to be decent quality and holds the rod snug I would say a slightly above average spring/clamping strength.. Not sure the gauge of the cables but they are plenty thick enough for the amperage. Both are 10’ long on the 2015 model.
The Heart of the machine is TIG. Overall it has a lot of adjustability. Even at 60Htz the arc feels very smooth. We were having some issues as noted earlier in the thread with one of the 2014 demo machines at low amperage. Trying the second 2014 machine with the same settings on 26ga aluminum, I found it responded much better. Now the current model seems to be better at low amps with a more stable arc thanks in part to the adjustable frequency that I like to set around 100-120. Less arc wander was also noted. No issues with low current start. I did note an anomaly that the machine will only go down to about 20 or so amps when the frequency is turned up say around 120. Seems to be a bit of a synergistic effect.
The pedal has a nice range of travel and the amperage increases and decreased smoothly through the full range of travel. I documented this in the following video. https://youtu.be/l5_U_nH_9P0 This is one of those things I mentioned in the beginning that I don’t see anyone else testing on video. It was also in response to a forum member’s query. Now you will notice in the recent video I posted that Chucke2009 did a comparison between 3 different brands. All the pedals are basically the same design. AHP opted for the upgraded pedal that allows amperage adjustment from the machine rather than that really annoying knob on the pedal as seen on the Longevity unit. Easy to get damaged, knocked out of position and awkward to adjust. The better pedal used on the AHP is definitely a wise choice. Now I have not found any functional issues with the AHP pedals so the issues raised about getting a better pedal seem to be mostly just a style preference. I tested the Everlast pedal on my PowerTIG 185 and found similar response through the range. The only difference is that it is a full foot design. I don’t have the SSC pedal to test and compare to so I cannot make any comment as to if it’s functionally any better. For many who buy this machine, it will probably be their first pedal and it will work fine for them. So I think it just comes down to what you are used to. I have owned a couple Bobcat Skid loaders. Both foot controlled buckets. I hate hand control skid steer buckets with a passion. However it does not mean that one is better than the other, its purely what I am used to and a personal preference. Same with standard lever steering versus joystick steering that I also prefer the former, but both work and get the job done.
The Torch. This was upgraded in the 2015 model as was noted in the bullet list above. On the current torch, I did note 2 improvements and have shared this with AHP. They are actually meeting with their torch supplier any day now. First is that the rubber torch head is too loose in the handle (a decrease in the ID of plastic handle should fix at the manufacturer level). A couple of wraps of electrical tape fixed this, (some heat shrink tubing works well too) but this should be a very snug fitting that does not rotate right to left as you move the torch along the the weld. Hopefully they can get this tolerance tightened up. The other is a minor change and that is to reverse the install of the cover so the bulky zipper is at the machine end instead of the torch end. The flex head seems to hold its position without a problem. I would like a little stiffer neck but that again is more a personal preference. It uses standard WP17/18/26 consumables. The torch button comes pre-installed on the new model as well. I immediately changed out to gas lenses because I am paying for my own gas, no reason to waste it using the included consumables. Shovelon did use the included consumables with his machine. We noted the heat deformation that is common to pretty much all the made in China consumables; even those from major welding suppliers and torch manufacturers. This also turned out to be a cause of poor welding performance after a period of time welding. The swollen/deformed collet was partially blocking gas flow.
When it cooled an shrunk it would then weld okay for a while. There are high performance collets available from CK Worldwide; part numbers and info here http://www.ckworldwide.com/wedge-collets.html
I tested the actual display readout to what was shown on my inductive ammeter to see if the display was accurate. I found in the past that some other Chinese made machines varied significantly between the set or displayed amps and what the machine was actually putting out. You can see from these videos done on both DC and AC that the readout is very accurate and can be relied upon for setting up the machine… DC TIG here: https://youtu.be/yA9YmqpbnWk
AC TIG here: https://youtu.be/27hNIuj7GHg
this is even more important factor for those new to welding. The machine puts down nice beads on both AC and DC. There are plenty of videos up already of folks welding with these machines.
2T/4T this is a function that allows you to start and stop the welding current using a button on the torch. The start amps, main amps, end amps ONLY WORK in 4T mode. 2T is basically on off. Press and the machine applies the main amp current. Release and it stops. On 4T press and release once and the machine starts at the start amps, ramps up to main amps and continues to weld till you press and release again and it ramps down to end amps and applies the post flow gas for the preset time. The control that is missing if you are using 4T is upslope and downslope timers. they are fixed at a preset time.
Pulse control. Like the 4T, I think the pulse is there because it sounds cool and sells welders. Sure it works as specified and you can set main and background amps as well as well as on time. I just don’t see a lot of use for a pulse between ½ to 5 pulses per second. One potential use of the feature that I still need to try if I find some anodized aluminum is “Bump” welding to burn through the Anodizing… I don’t like the idea that Jody has of using it to time your dips. As the aluminum heats up you need to change your timing but the pulsing stays constant. It also means you are learning bad habits and not watching the puddle and reacting to what it’s doing. It seems there is some significant cost involved with making the machine high speed pulse on DC for stainless and such where pulse can really benefit the welder.
Modifications/upgrades
Pedal:
2 mods for the pedal have been posted, both are to keep it from sliding away from you. One is to add some rubber diamond skid mat from Harbor Freight to the bottom of the pedal. The other from (Mechanic416 was to screw it to a wood board long enough to extend under your heel to accomplish the same. There are holes in the pedal already through which you can attach bolts/screws. A pedal upgrade from SSC controls is another option. Be aware that the 2014 (5 pin) and 2015 (7 pin) are different connectors due to the auto switch function of pedal to torch button.
Gas fitting/Regulator:
If you are going to make one upgrade, consider a quality ball flowmeter to replace the 2 dial gauge regulator that comes with the AHP. New these are quite expensive, HTP offers a reasonably priced one. I also regularly see brands such as Victor, Harris, Smith etc. listed on eBay for around $50. This would be a good way to go for the budget minded. There is a possibility that AHP may switch to a ball flowmeter in the future based on feedback they have received from customers and reviewers. Even so, the Chinese regulators and flowmeters are not the most accurate. Keep an eye out for a used one. The included hose is rubber and has good quality barrel crimps on both ends. Its about
As mentioned this fitting on the 2015 Tig torch uses a quick connect that seems to be a standard metric connection in Europe and Asia but not so common here. Spares are available and in stock from AHP should you want to upgrade, a CK Worldwide torch would be a great choice. Yes the stock torch is fine for many who buy this machine. Again we are talking personal preference to a point. However if you plan to do a lot of TIG in the upper portion of the power range of this machine I think you would see a performance benefit from a quality torch. The included torch is better than some I have used on other welders. Yet it is nothing special and is one area that is probably used to help control costs. The 2015 torch seems to stay cooler than the 2014 due to the larger gauge cable used.
Rod Holder and clamp:
One of my pet peeves is these pressed steel work clamps. Even Miller, Lincoln and the like use them on many of their machines. For long term durability and the best possible connection when welding I recommend replacing the work clamp with a quality Copper/Brass clamp. I also like the Bernard Twist style SMAW electrode clamps. They are a bit slower to change out the rod but for most hobby guys that’s not a big issue. Definitely worth trying one if you get the chance.
In conclusion, this is an excellent value at $800 and offers a tremendous amount of features for the price. The 3 machines we demoed all performed well with no failures of the machines while pushing them to their rated duty cycles. AHP is also showing that they are making an ongoing effort to improve their products with each generation of machine. The $50 price increase on the 2015 model is well worth the cost of admission. I would have no problem standing behind the quality or performance I ave observed in this machine. I would not recommend this machine for an ongoing heavy industrial/commercial applications. I also would not suggest this machine if you plan on doing a lot of low amp AC TIG welding. It just does not seem to have that stable of an arc or fine and accurate current control below about 20-30amps especially when set at high frequency setting. I did weld some 26 gauge aluminum with it, however it did not have the level of control that i would want for doing this extensively. if you are mostly doing 20 gauge and thicker on AC then it does fine. on DC it does very well even at low amps. I would also say buy this if you are primarily looking for a TIG welder. If you primarily want a stick welder, i would suggest something with Hot Start and Arc Force control. As far as customer service I give them a passing grade based on comments i have seen from actual owners. Right now they are probably at a C+, B- range. One has to remember you cannot please all the people all the time. That said, I have identified several areas and issues that could be improved at AHP as far as Customer relations and product QA/service that could put them into a solid "A"grade. At its current price point I don't think you will find a better AC/DC TIG stick welder on the market that offers the range of features and performance of the AHP AlphaTIG 200x. Yes there are many better machines that cost a lot more, but for someone new to welding, or the average hobby user, this is a solid machine as well as a good machine to learn on. I feel confident that AHP is going to be around for for foreseeable future to support their product line. I should note that I have visited their Office/Warehouse in San Francisco so I can verify that this is a US based operation with a permanent US business location.
As always, as long as I have my paws on one of these, anyone who is near me (Reno NV) is welcome to come by and take it for a spin.
I originally posted this review over at WeldingWeb. com , I was told by the mangagement that it would be okay to post it here. Please be aware I am just a long time hobby welder and have no financial or other reimbursement agreements with AHP past or present. The machines will be getting returned to AHP at some point, however they are currently happy to leave them with us for long term evaluation.
The original thread can be found here: http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?45 ... ost5706981
So, I’ve had the opportunity to use these machines the last few months. Recently getting the 2015 model. The primay goal was to see if they are a decent TIG welder at their very attractive price of $800. Obviously, I was not expecting it to be a Miller Dynasty. AHP does not claim this either. They clearly state this is designed for the home and hobby user. I would say it would be suitable for an occasional use machine is a small shop setting too. I didn’t do many videos on the operation of the machine because folks like Chucke2009, Kevin Caron, Jody etc. make much better videos. The videos that I do post are to either show something I don’t see others doing/evaluating, or to address a specific question or issue.
I was able to get Shovelon, a respected member on the WeldingWeb forum to agree to demo this machine too. I am sure he will share his own thoughts. His approach is different in that he looks totally at the ROI from a business standpoint. If the machine ran daily for 6 months, he got his money’s worth and the machine paid for itself. Though I remind you it was not intended to be an industrial machine. Anyone who knows Shovelon is aware he has no love for Chinese made machines but at the same time is honest guy and more importantly, should have divinity status when it comes to his TIG welding ability. With tens of thousands of hours under the hood, I was pleased he agreed to do this
Initially I was going to use it then wait for doing a review at the end. However, it seemed more interesting to share as we went along. (see above linked thread) Most of the time was spent with the 2014 model but I have covered that pretty well. So instead of rehashing that part, I’ll just address the improvements in the 2015 model.
2015 model Improvements vs 2014 model
• Adjustable AC Frequency to 200Htz is obviously the #1 improvement. Personally I would choose adjustable frequency over the included slow speed pulse or the 2T/4T settings any day.
• The torch trigger/foot pedal button was removed from the 15’ model and replaced with an auto sensing circuit. This is good as it removes a source of confusion and problems for users. Keep in mind may who buy this machine may be quite new to welding.
• The welding cable Dinse 25 plugs were replaced with industry standard Dinse 50 plugs. For anyone that already owns another set of leads, this is a big plus. For example I have a nice set of 25’ Stick leads that I can now connect direct to the torch. 2015 cable is on top measures .455" daimeter vs .380" of the older one.
• The torch was upgraded to a heavier duty cable, zippered cover and different button along with having a Dinse 50 power connection with attached gas line inlet that connects separately to a quick connect port. Note: I was told the male fittings for the gas line are always in stock and can be ordered from AHP should you want to add a water cooled torch or upgrade to a CK torch etc. (Might want to add one when you order a machine if you are thinking of going that route. )
• The torch is now a Flex Head style torch.
• Internally, my only gripe on the 14’ was the leading end of the circuit board was not supported. A support bracket was added to the 2015 model. Note: that I’m not an electronics guy so my assessment of internal components is limited.
• The machine also received several internal component/internal upgrades to improve reliability/performance…
How does it weld?
Most welders seem to be sold as a TIG welder that can do stick or a Stick welder that can do TIG. Few excel equally at both. This is a TIG welder that can do stick. However it does it pretty well. If it had Arc Force and Hot Start, I think it could be a machine that does both well. I have been told no further changes are going to be made to this design other than those to correct functional/operational issues. The machine is also built to be a budget machine and adding too much extra stuff would make it too expensive to meet that target.
That said it does stick weld better than my Everlast PowerTIG 185. It does run E6010 quite satisfactorily. Very little problem with keeping the arc lit; the primary issue with many inverters. The machine was built with a larger transformer that seems to give it a rather forceful arc. I was told this was done to make it easier for beginners to learn stick welding. Using 7018 I tended to run on the low end of the range for the specified rod. Thinner material it does seem to dig too much but it would be fine for occasional stick or for learning the process on. The work clamp has pressed steel contact points but does have a nice wide woven copper strap connecting both points of the clamp. If you push the clamp all the way onto the work and have the copper strap pressing against the workpiece that can benefit giving you an even better connection. The electrode clamp seems to be decent quality and holds the rod snug I would say a slightly above average spring/clamping strength.. Not sure the gauge of the cables but they are plenty thick enough for the amperage. Both are 10’ long on the 2015 model.
The Heart of the machine is TIG. Overall it has a lot of adjustability. Even at 60Htz the arc feels very smooth. We were having some issues as noted earlier in the thread with one of the 2014 demo machines at low amperage. Trying the second 2014 machine with the same settings on 26ga aluminum, I found it responded much better. Now the current model seems to be better at low amps with a more stable arc thanks in part to the adjustable frequency that I like to set around 100-120. Less arc wander was also noted. No issues with low current start. I did note an anomaly that the machine will only go down to about 20 or so amps when the frequency is turned up say around 120. Seems to be a bit of a synergistic effect.
The pedal has a nice range of travel and the amperage increases and decreased smoothly through the full range of travel. I documented this in the following video. https://youtu.be/l5_U_nH_9P0 This is one of those things I mentioned in the beginning that I don’t see anyone else testing on video. It was also in response to a forum member’s query. Now you will notice in the recent video I posted that Chucke2009 did a comparison between 3 different brands. All the pedals are basically the same design. AHP opted for the upgraded pedal that allows amperage adjustment from the machine rather than that really annoying knob on the pedal as seen on the Longevity unit. Easy to get damaged, knocked out of position and awkward to adjust. The better pedal used on the AHP is definitely a wise choice. Now I have not found any functional issues with the AHP pedals so the issues raised about getting a better pedal seem to be mostly just a style preference. I tested the Everlast pedal on my PowerTIG 185 and found similar response through the range. The only difference is that it is a full foot design. I don’t have the SSC pedal to test and compare to so I cannot make any comment as to if it’s functionally any better. For many who buy this machine, it will probably be their first pedal and it will work fine for them. So I think it just comes down to what you are used to. I have owned a couple Bobcat Skid loaders. Both foot controlled buckets. I hate hand control skid steer buckets with a passion. However it does not mean that one is better than the other, its purely what I am used to and a personal preference. Same with standard lever steering versus joystick steering that I also prefer the former, but both work and get the job done.
The Torch. This was upgraded in the 2015 model as was noted in the bullet list above. On the current torch, I did note 2 improvements and have shared this with AHP. They are actually meeting with their torch supplier any day now. First is that the rubber torch head is too loose in the handle (a decrease in the ID of plastic handle should fix at the manufacturer level). A couple of wraps of electrical tape fixed this, (some heat shrink tubing works well too) but this should be a very snug fitting that does not rotate right to left as you move the torch along the the weld. Hopefully they can get this tolerance tightened up. The other is a minor change and that is to reverse the install of the cover so the bulky zipper is at the machine end instead of the torch end. The flex head seems to hold its position without a problem. I would like a little stiffer neck but that again is more a personal preference. It uses standard WP17/18/26 consumables. The torch button comes pre-installed on the new model as well. I immediately changed out to gas lenses because I am paying for my own gas, no reason to waste it using the included consumables. Shovelon did use the included consumables with his machine. We noted the heat deformation that is common to pretty much all the made in China consumables; even those from major welding suppliers and torch manufacturers. This also turned out to be a cause of poor welding performance after a period of time welding. The swollen/deformed collet was partially blocking gas flow.
I tested the actual display readout to what was shown on my inductive ammeter to see if the display was accurate. I found in the past that some other Chinese made machines varied significantly between the set or displayed amps and what the machine was actually putting out. You can see from these videos done on both DC and AC that the readout is very accurate and can be relied upon for setting up the machine… DC TIG here: https://youtu.be/yA9YmqpbnWk
AC TIG here: https://youtu.be/27hNIuj7GHg
this is even more important factor for those new to welding. The machine puts down nice beads on both AC and DC. There are plenty of videos up already of folks welding with these machines.
2T/4T this is a function that allows you to start and stop the welding current using a button on the torch. The start amps, main amps, end amps ONLY WORK in 4T mode. 2T is basically on off. Press and the machine applies the main amp current. Release and it stops. On 4T press and release once and the machine starts at the start amps, ramps up to main amps and continues to weld till you press and release again and it ramps down to end amps and applies the post flow gas for the preset time. The control that is missing if you are using 4T is upslope and downslope timers. they are fixed at a preset time.
Pulse control. Like the 4T, I think the pulse is there because it sounds cool and sells welders. Sure it works as specified and you can set main and background amps as well as well as on time. I just don’t see a lot of use for a pulse between ½ to 5 pulses per second. One potential use of the feature that I still need to try if I find some anodized aluminum is “Bump” welding to burn through the Anodizing… I don’t like the idea that Jody has of using it to time your dips. As the aluminum heats up you need to change your timing but the pulsing stays constant. It also means you are learning bad habits and not watching the puddle and reacting to what it’s doing. It seems there is some significant cost involved with making the machine high speed pulse on DC for stainless and such where pulse can really benefit the welder.
Modifications/upgrades
Pedal:
2 mods for the pedal have been posted, both are to keep it from sliding away from you. One is to add some rubber diamond skid mat from Harbor Freight to the bottom of the pedal. The other from (Mechanic416 was to screw it to a wood board long enough to extend under your heel to accomplish the same. There are holes in the pedal already through which you can attach bolts/screws. A pedal upgrade from SSC controls is another option. Be aware that the 2014 (5 pin) and 2015 (7 pin) are different connectors due to the auto switch function of pedal to torch button.
Gas fitting/Regulator:
If you are going to make one upgrade, consider a quality ball flowmeter to replace the 2 dial gauge regulator that comes with the AHP. New these are quite expensive, HTP offers a reasonably priced one. I also regularly see brands such as Victor, Harris, Smith etc. listed on eBay for around $50. This would be a good way to go for the budget minded. There is a possibility that AHP may switch to a ball flowmeter in the future based on feedback they have received from customers and reviewers. Even so, the Chinese regulators and flowmeters are not the most accurate. Keep an eye out for a used one. The included hose is rubber and has good quality barrel crimps on both ends. Its about
As mentioned this fitting on the 2015 Tig torch uses a quick connect that seems to be a standard metric connection in Europe and Asia but not so common here. Spares are available and in stock from AHP should you want to upgrade, a CK Worldwide torch would be a great choice. Yes the stock torch is fine for many who buy this machine. Again we are talking personal preference to a point. However if you plan to do a lot of TIG in the upper portion of the power range of this machine I think you would see a performance benefit from a quality torch. The included torch is better than some I have used on other welders. Yet it is nothing special and is one area that is probably used to help control costs. The 2015 torch seems to stay cooler than the 2014 due to the larger gauge cable used.
Rod Holder and clamp:
One of my pet peeves is these pressed steel work clamps. Even Miller, Lincoln and the like use them on many of their machines. For long term durability and the best possible connection when welding I recommend replacing the work clamp with a quality Copper/Brass clamp. I also like the Bernard Twist style SMAW electrode clamps. They are a bit slower to change out the rod but for most hobby guys that’s not a big issue. Definitely worth trying one if you get the chance.
In conclusion, this is an excellent value at $800 and offers a tremendous amount of features for the price. The 3 machines we demoed all performed well with no failures of the machines while pushing them to their rated duty cycles. AHP is also showing that they are making an ongoing effort to improve their products with each generation of machine. The $50 price increase on the 2015 model is well worth the cost of admission. I would have no problem standing behind the quality or performance I ave observed in this machine. I would not recommend this machine for an ongoing heavy industrial/commercial applications. I also would not suggest this machine if you plan on doing a lot of low amp AC TIG welding. It just does not seem to have that stable of an arc or fine and accurate current control below about 20-30amps especially when set at high frequency setting. I did weld some 26 gauge aluminum with it, however it did not have the level of control that i would want for doing this extensively. if you are mostly doing 20 gauge and thicker on AC then it does fine. on DC it does very well even at low amps. I would also say buy this if you are primarily looking for a TIG welder. If you primarily want a stick welder, i would suggest something with Hot Start and Arc Force control. As far as customer service I give them a passing grade based on comments i have seen from actual owners. Right now they are probably at a C+, B- range. One has to remember you cannot please all the people all the time. That said, I have identified several areas and issues that could be improved at AHP as far as Customer relations and product QA/service that could put them into a solid "A"grade. At its current price point I don't think you will find a better AC/DC TIG stick welder on the market that offers the range of features and performance of the AHP AlphaTIG 200x. Yes there are many better machines that cost a lot more, but for someone new to welding, or the average hobby user, this is a solid machine as well as a good machine to learn on. I feel confident that AHP is going to be around for for foreseeable future to support their product line. I should note that I have visited their Office/Warehouse in San Francisco so I can verify that this is a US based operation with a permanent US business location.
As always, as long as I have my paws on one of these, anyone who is near me (Reno NV) is welcome to come by and take it for a spin.
