Welding Tips and Tricks

A thought I had and I'm not sure it would make a difference in it's performance.

This is what I was thinking:

I was going to add a split on the output of the pump (ProCon pump) and place a valve inline so I can regulate the pressure to the torch. But this is my question. I was going to route the feed that is post valve into the input of the heat exchange where the return feed from the torch is coming to. My thought is it would cool the water down before going through the heat exchange giving the water a second level of cooling. I will either do that or just run the split back into the tank. Will this keep the water cooler for a longer time or will it do just the opposite? In my head it sounds like a good idea but I don't know the physics behind it all. Diagram below shows what I was thinking.

Will you be using a cooling fan on the heat exchanger? I too built my own water cooler using a Procon Pump, and this is the 120V AC Equipment Cooling Fan that I used.

it depends on the temperature diferance between the liquid and the air flowing across the coil. There are lots of variables. Liquid temp, the greater the temp of the liquid the faster you can transfer heat to the air. Down side to hot of liquid and your torch won't stay cool. Speed of flow of the liquid, this is a double edged sword when your transferring heat between liquids and air. To fast and the liquid doesn't have time to get rid of its heat. To slow and you won't get rid of heat fast enough. Air temp obviously that will be shop temps variable but out of your control. Air speed variable by use of fans if you increase the air flow this will increase heat transfer more than any other variable in this application. I would suggest that when you pipe up liquid flow you leave your self the ability to change around flow patterns till you find what's best in your case. Either way will work and you only need to make sure you maintain enough flow through the torch.

I wasn't thinking about the increased flow rate. But of course that is a factor. I'll most likely just plumb it back into the tank and keep the flow rate what it will be.

My heat exchange that I ordered is 8"x8" cooling surface.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171872360351?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

I ordered the following fan.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3T ... ge_o00_s00

If you look in the description of the coil you posted it gives the specs for the heat transfer. Gpm btu's and cfm. Coincidering your not going to be any where near the flow rate of the coil i would pump your bypass coolant through the coil as well not just dump it back into the tank. That fan looks like it can move plenty of air so you might want to operate it off of tank temp with a thermostat.

I almost bought this one but I was trying to save a few dollars. Do you think I'll have trouble getting the liquid cool with the radiator I ordered?

https://www.flex-a-lite.com/oil-fuel-co ... r-kit.html

Either one will work. Unless your doing high amp production work you will probably never have any issues. Even then you would probably be fine.

Great.
Thanks Josh I appreciate it.

nice... this is similar to what i am doing...
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=9049

Completed it yesterday! (3/13/16)

Richard, thanks for the link for the inexpensive duel regulator. (from a different thread. http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=5&t=9062) I did in the end buy one. I found the cost was close to being the same if I were to buy a Y split with valves and connectors to make it fit with my odd Everlast hose connectors.

I also added a thermostat switch to kick on the fan when it reaches a certain temp. Welded a stainless bolt on the tank and drilled out the center and stuck the probe inside the hole. (any recommendation on what temp I should start cooling the water at?) I also added a rheostat on the fan. The fan is very loud and moves a lot of air so this helps with the decibel level.

Also, what would be a good PSI to set for the torch? (CK20 Flexhead Superflex hose)

Kriky wrote:Completed it yesterday! (3/13/16)

Richard, thanks for the link for the inexpensive duel regulator. I did in the end buy one. I found the cost was close to being the same if I were to buy a Y split with values and connectors to make it fit with my odd Everlast hose connectors.

I also added a thermostat switch to kick on the fan when it reaches a certain temp. Welded a stainless bolt on the tank and drilled out the center and stuck the probe inside the hole. (any recommendation on what temp I should start cooling the water at?) I also added a rheostat on the fan. The fan is very loud and moves a lot of air so this helps with the decibel level.

Also, what would be a good PSI to set for the torch? (CK20 Flexhead Superflex hose)

WaterCooler1.jpg

How much do you think you have in material in the entire project?


Thanks!

Kinda wondering that too. I've seen some DIY projects that look like they cost more than a commercial cooler.

I'm building mine now but was going to use a CPU water cooled radiator:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007YL ... detailpage

some case fans:
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Computer ... m+fan+pack

a 12V pump with a potentiometer for rate control:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQ ... detailpage

A pressure gauge between the pump and the tig torch should let me dial it in to a reasonable flow rate. A computer power supply hacked down for just the 12V rail (bridge green to black to turn on and then the yellow wires are the 12V positive) will meet the needs of the pump and fan and also serve as the on off switch. A 4" pic pipe will act as a 1 gallon reservoir and Ill mont that vertically next to the radiator on 1" .125" angle iron with a .125" plate as the base. I think all in I'll be at around $120.

Something like this arrangement (yes I know I can't draw for crap lol):
-Sandow

Miller/Everlast recommends 1.1 qt/l per min.Pressure whatever it takes to get the flow at the in to the cooler.Flow is to torch,through torch, cooling the lead on the way back to welder,then to cooler.

I meant to write about the cost. I know someone asked on one thread I read wondering if it was worth it to build one or buy one.

It would probably be cheaper to buy one if you don't have a full set up of tools to build one. I had to buy a duel regulator, ($100) hoses, and connectors for the argon backing. And the extra argon. Also, purchased hoses and copper pipe to use for the backing. And a little bit of trial and error cost.

I was basically learning on the job which I knew when I was going into to. But the best thing about this is I can fix it if it breaks. And I built it, which is for me, the main reason for doing it. It was fun to do and no warranty needed.

I just quickly added up the cost on in my head for the parts used. I would say around $350. Give or take $25 or so. I can't really say how many hours I put into. It was on and off for the past three weeks researching, ordering the parts and building it.

I hope this helps. But beware if you are married. Because my wife keeps joking that when I head to the garage I going to hang with my new mistress! Which she is right!

If you have to pay eBay prices for all the components then a commercial set up is probably cheaper. I had access to a pump, motor, coils and fans. So I'm building mine.