Welding Tips and Tricks

so, i just got my powertig 250ex today, it arrived, and it comes with a water cooled torch equipped with a torch switch, which i assume i can not plug in the torch and use my pedal on so its 2 in 1 (kind of), but my question is should i just keep that one for all uses, foot pedal and torch switch? or should i get a second one for scratch start? or is it not worth the few hundred bucks just for scratch start in your opinions?
thanks

noah

what work do you do that would necessitate scratch start? If that question does not apply, then why do you think you need scratch start?

Oscar wrote:what work do you do that would necessitate scratch start? If that question does not apply, then why do you think you need scratch start?

fair point, just thought it would be good to have to practice with it, i probably wont be doing work by myself for the next year or so, so i guess if the time comes that i need it ill get it then, thanks

Congrats on the new machine!

Least honorable wrote:

Oscar wrote:what work do you do that would necessitate scratch start? If that question does not apply, then why do you think you need scratch start?

fair point, just thought it would be good to have to practice with it, i probably wont be doing work by myself for the next year or so, so i guess if the time comes that i need it ill get it then, thanks

Glad to help, lol. If anything, different style torches might serve you depending on the type of work you plan on taking on...

Damn Oscar! Is there a torch handle you don't have?

I have the 255EXT. The torch switch and the peddle use the same outlet and cannot be used simultaneously. Besides, they have different functions as well.
If you ever weld in any position other than flat then you might consider a flex head or flexloc torch. I don't personally care for those flex head torches but the CK flexloc makes me drool. I forgot to plug my water cooler into the welder a few months ago and destroyed the torch that came with my everlast. I bought a regular 20-style CK torch as a replacement and have since been regretting not spending the few extra $$$ (about another $130 I think) on a CK Flexloc with super flex lines. You will see exactly what I mean the first time you try to tack a T joint. Superflex lines alone would have made everything much easier. But the combination of superflex and flexloc is almost too good to be true. This would just allow you to focus on the welding rather than having to cock your wrist into funny out-of-positions and sometimes having the lines pull/leverage you out of position. That equates into a much less steep learning curve, less cussing, less sharpening of tungsten and an overall much more pleasurable learning experience.
If you don't have a water cooler...GET ONE! You won't be welding much with that little jackass #9 torch (I melted mine). I know that you bought that machine so that you can weld thick aluminum (you had many cheaper alternatives otherwise) and I can tell you for a fact that it puddles 3/8" aluminum with ease. But you're not gonna be doing that with an air cooled torch.

Poland308 wrote:Damn Oscar! Is there a torch handle you don't have?

Yes two:

• WP-18 - Don't need it since my machine only puts out 220A
• WP-anything-V - I don't ever plan to use a TIG that doesn't have a gas solenoid
• and all those funky super long neck CK torches

Lol I've gotten by with a 17 flex and a 9. But I've run across a lot of things I wish I had your options for. Would have made my life easier.

You can do "scratch start" with any torch you have... Just don't hook up the remote (pedal or switch), and set the machine in the appropriate mode. My Everlast Power iMIG200, for example, has a MMA/TIG setting (which I've only used for stick, so far) that will permit scratch-start, and it doesn't care what torch is attached.

Steve S

Otto Nobedder wrote:You can do "scratch start" with any torch you have... Just don't hook up the remote (pedal or switch), and set the machine in the appropriate mode. My Everlast Power iMIG200, for example, has a MMA/TIG setting (which I've only used for stick, so far) that will permit scratch-start, and it doesn't care what torch is attached.

Steve S

oh really? i didnt know that, i thought you needed a torch valve (not sure if proper term) for a scratch start tig rig. so what would i need, get the part to hook up the stick stinger to then im ready to go if i would like to scratch start? or is it like you said, a setting?

noah

Least honorable wrote:

Otto Nobedder wrote:You can do "scratch start" with any torch you have... Just don't hook up the remote (pedal or switch), and set the machine in the appropriate mode. My Everlast Power iMIG200, for example, has a MMA/TIG setting (which I've only used for stick, so far) that will permit scratch-start, and it doesn't care what torch is attached.

Steve S

oh really? i didnt know that, i thought you needed a torch valve (not sure if proper term) for a scratch start tig rig. so what would i need, get the part to hook up the stick stinger to then im ready to go if i would like to scratch start? or is it like you said, a setting?

noah

That's what people use when they don't have a dedicated TIG welder (with a gas solenoid). They hook up TIG torches to DC Stick welders to get the current, then run the argon straight from the tank to the torch, and control the flow with the valve. THey do this because they have no other choice on how to control the argon flow---it has to be done at the torch with a knob'd valve.

Since you already have a TIG welder, you don't need to bypass the internal gas solenoid and make things more difficult (unless your machine's instructions instruct you to do so). If it is a setting, well you tell us. What does the manual say with regards to turning the HF start off?

Least honorable wrote:

Otto Nobedder wrote:You can do "scratch start" with any torch you have... Just don't hook up the remote (pedal or switch), and set the machine in the appropriate mode. My Everlast Power iMIG200, for example, has a MMA/TIG setting (which I've only used for stick, so far) that will permit scratch-start, and it doesn't care what torch is attached.

Steve S

oh really? i didnt know that, i thought you needed a torch valve (not sure if proper term) for a scratch start tig rig. so what would i need, get the part to hook up the stick stinger to then im ready to go if i would like to scratch start? or is it like you said, a setting?

noah

That does, now that you mention it, depend on the machine... My Everlast requires a valved torch, but was never a TIG machine beyond it's scratch-start. The Miller SW250's at work have a lift-arc setting that engages the gas solenoid so a valved torch is not needed, but lift-arc and scratch-start are not the same thing.

You will have to study the manual to see if auto-engaging the gas is supported in scratch-start, or if it has a lift-arc capability.

One thing I will tell you about scratch-start with a valved torch... You will cuss yourself often for trying to start without first turning on the gas... Once you're use to it being automatic, your mind expects it automatically.

Steve S