Welding Tips and Tricks

So I have everlast 250ex. I love it. The only complaint I have is the foot pedal. The first one was horrible it wouldn't shut off. They sent me a replacement and it will shut off but welding at low amps it struggles keeping a stable arc. If I use the micro switch on the torch which is just on/off it works great at low amps. So this leads me to believe that the pedal is junk. While I still have 3 years of the warranty left. I don't need 10 foot pedals laying around.

So what quality foot pedals are out there that I could use with my everlast? Also I'd like to put a micro switch on my 9, any ideas where I can get a good quality switch?

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Jesse James wrote:So I have everlast 250ex. I love it. The only complaint I have is the foot pedal. The first one was horrible it wouldn't shut off. They sent me a replacement and it will shut off but welding at low amps it struggles keeping a stable arc. If I use the micro switch on the torch which is just on/off it works great at low amps. So this leads me to believe that the pedal is junk. While I still have 3 years of the warranty left. I don't need 10 foot pedals laying around.

So what quality foot pedals are out there that I could use with my everlast? Also I'd like to put a micro switch on my 9, any ideas where I can get a good quality switch?

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SSC Controls...
Very good pedals.
Call everlast for a switch.
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If you want a momentary switch that will last a long time, even with continuous, manual pulse welding, this one is hard to beat and it fits nice and flat to the torch. I've been using this same style switch for 17 years and the one I currently have is probably about 7 years, used every day hard.

https://www.airgas.com/product/Welding- ... AD64005695

That is for the Radnor version of the switch. Miller's version is a much more spendy.

Here's how I have it installed on mine with good ol' masking tape. Masking tape doesn't melt when you touch the torch to hot things when in tight spaces.I just don't let the tape onto the plunger part of the switch, keeping it just outside that round edge. I also have a section of plastic spiral wire loom wrapped around my cables and twisted up into the torch handle for strain relief, especially if using flex cables.


Sorry I don't have a better picture, or couldn't readily find one but it is better than lever type switches, IMO. Many of which have a plastic pivot rod that breaks easily under even moderate use.

TamJeff - are you using that switch on the Miller 330 abp?

Good to know it looks just like the one with the miller name on it but much cheaper. I just called CK to see if they had one but they said they didn't.

Mcmaster-Carr has a similar pendent switch......price is about $18 or so. I have several on different welders and they work great.

I'm looking at glueing one to the body of a CK rotary controler and wiring them togeather on the same plug so I can maintain all my features of my TA 186 while using my flex 17 scratch start rig.