[glivo]

In the thread about the MIG part 3 video (Wire speed / voltage setting of unknown welder parameters) I posted this comment about using a particular welder.

"When I used the Cigweld 150 Mig, for about 1" the weld wire refused to push into the corner, instead laying separate beads along the surface of each piece with no connection or penetration. Confused at first (mask down), I then realized it was coinciding with the position of the magnetic support. I scratched my head, removed it ( the magnet, not my head) and held the now already joined at each end pieces in the vice, ground it back out, and I was able to weld over that section without issue."

I have been doing a repair job on wifey's horse float and I have my new 175i+ set up for MIG inside the shed and the 150 set up for FCAW to use outside in the open air / breeze. I am experiencing this split bead weld problem with the 150 on regular occasions and without the magnetic clamps. On a particular weld location I ensured thoroughly cleaned back bare steel (removed the weld-through paint finish on new steel) but this didn't seem to help. I tried adjustment of voltage and wire feed / current with no improvement. The weld metal wants to deposit on one piece or the other and I then have to go back over it and try to "bridge the gap". Sometimes it feels and looks like the whole wire is just turning to spatter. Simple tack welds form 2 un-joined deposits on either side of the join.

I am welding in tricky positions but nothing that should be causing me this grief. A few days ago I found that the work clamp lead was nearly separated from the clamp so I repaired that but the problem remains. I haven't had this issue with other welders.

I'm fairly sure the flux core wire I'm using is all position so vertical and overhead shouldn't cause a problem.

I'd be really interested if anybody has a possible explanation or suggestion.

[Poland308]

Is It favoring the side with the better ground?

[LtBadd]

I'm fairly sure the flux core wire I'm using is all position so vertical and overhead shouldn't cause a problem.

Since you're having a problem, double check and be sure

Is the polarity set right for FCAW

"GMAW (MIG) and most gas-shielded flux-cored (FCAW-G) wires weld best on direct-current electrode positive (DCEP). The recommended or most stable polarity for FCAW-S, though, depends on the specific core elements (arc stabilizers) in a particular wire. Most FCAW-S wires work best in direct-current electrode-negative (DCEN) polarity, but a few are most stable with DCEP." From Lincoln Electric

Check the liner, drive rolls (tension) and contact tip

I'm just throwing out some possibilities, always check the easy things first. especially the ones that don't cost money hoping the fix will be free.

[glivo]

Thanks for your input.
Answers.
P308, No. The weld deposit is separating quite evenly between both sides of the weld and not favouring the side directly connected to the earth / work clamp. The wire direction is at play here but there isn't a "middle spot" if you understand what I'm saying. The parts are clean bare metal so there is good electrical connection between sides. After the weld deposit has split I can, with some difficulty and persistence, bridge the 2 sides. A lot of weaving from side to side and almost stitching the weld together. I'm getting a join but it shouldn't be so difficult. It isn't pretty little stacks of dimes but it is strong enough, and being up under the float, pretty doesn't really matter. The job is using a lot more wire than should be required with a lot of spatter and weld metal that doesn't land.

LtBadd, I will check and post the exact type of wire later today but I am using DCEN. The interesting thing is that I used the exact same roll of wire when doing test welds using 3 different welders all using DCEN and only this welder gave me the problem. I thought it was caused by the magnetic clamps but now I feel it probably wasn't.

The liner and tip are good but I'm still 2 weeks away from obtaining the new wire feed mechanism which is paid for but on back-order. The wire feed is a bit erratic at low speed but this is not where I'm running it so it is working to an acceptable standard. I guess this could be a factor but I'm not certain it is.

I have a couple of rolls of a different Flux-core wire so I'll swap it out to see if there is an improvement.

EDIT:
The wire in the machine is Michigan Welding Co. 0.9 mm AWS-E71T-11 (GS) (also labelled: ME71tGS0909..111576)
I have the remains of a leftover 0.8 mm roll that I have used in the past without problems, but in saying this the Michigan wire worked well in the Unimig 180 and the Toolex 140N so I'm still thinking it is an issue with this particular machine.

[Toobaro]

Just my 1/2 cents worth. I have found that if they're dental floats they may be "Stainless Steel",and a Chromoly rod with a wooden handle. Without knowing exactly I have brazed them in the past. Just making ranch work Work. Good luck.

[glivo]

Just my 1/2 cents worth. I have found that if they're dental floats they may be "Stainless Steel",and a Chromoly rod with a wooden handle. Without knowing exactly I have brazed them in the past. Just making ranch work Work. Good luck.

Cultural language translation problem here. In the States I think you guys refer to them as a horse box or a horse trailer. Over here, a horse float is a trailer used to carry, or float, horses around. Not a dental appliance used to "float" a horses teeth.

Update on the welding:
If it's possible, I'm now less certain of what is going on than previously having no idea. Totally confused. Yesterday I cut a few short lengths of the exact same material I was trying to weld under the float. Brand new 25 mm or 1" square RHS with 2.8 mm or 0.110" wall thickness. Welding on the bench I had absolutely no problem at all with the same welder, same wire and adjusted settings. Other than turning the heat back the only difference was position. On the bench I was able to horizontal flat and fillet weld, whereas under the float it was vertical and overhead. The steel I was welding the square tube to under the float I had previously welded without any problem in the shed so there is no issue with the parent metal. It may be positional but the wire is meant to be "all position" wire. Of course to complicate things, I still think back to the first time I saw this happen with this welder, and it was on the bench, with the magnetic clamps. I just don't know what's causing it.

[weldin mike 27]

Definitely an arc blow situation. We used to use Lincoln 71-2c or something and would get horrible arc blow. Swapped to ordinary Lincoln s6 solid wire and the issue disappeared.

[glivo]

OK. Thanks. I'll investigate that line.

[weldin mike 27]

It bugged me, because flux core is great to use sometimes and horrible others. Go figure.

[weldin mike 27]

Ways to beat arc blow are to weld towards or away from the earth clamp (I can't remember which) I think there is something about using 2 earth's (like putting a y in your lead to two clamps), wrapping your earth lead around the job if possible. And also heating it up until it lose magnetic properties. (not possible on a lot of jobs)

[glivo]

Thanks mike. Good info. I'll definitely investigate further.

It's a bit odd what's happening. Again today I was able to do some welds, usually the easy ones out in the open, with no problem at all, while other spots, in horrible positions underneath, upside down with your head under your armpit, were just a bugger. Once the join is bridged I can grind the rubbish off and go back and weld over it (in some places). This is what I had to do the first time I noticed it when I did have magnets in play. Other welds underneath were fine so it's all just arbitrary and a pain in the backside.

What is unusual to me is that it seems to be this welder more so than any others.

Edit: Researching arc blow and it does certainly appear to be what is going on. It does have something to do with the shape and direction of the join as well as work clamp placement, etc. Not a lot I can do about it in this situation other than trying a different gasless wire. I'd go through a bit of gas outdoors to try to use solid wire.