Hello everyone. I am trying to teach myself to weld and I would like to start asking for pointers.
Look these over. To me they look like they are cold, however I am still playing with wire speed and voltage. It also seems like the wire speed might be too high. I was suprised that the welds on flat stock were so tall (above the surface).
I am using a Hobart Handler 190 with solid core wire and Ar/CO2 75/25 shield gas.
Thanks for any and all tips. Ive watched a ton of videos now I just need to practice, but I want to fix any mistakes I am making early.
mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
jamorgan3777
- jamorgan3777
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- weldin mike 27
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Not too bad. You have a few porosity holes. They are caused by lack of gas shielding. You need to make sure that your nozzle is clean, there is Zero wind where you are working and the stick out (nozzle tip to work is not more than 3/8s. Keep practising.
Part of the reason they are cold is because you did not grind off the millscale. Even though most steel mig wire has components to help cut through millscale, the millscale will always prevent the toes from wetting out to some degree, at least compared to if it wasn't there. Make it a habit right now that you are still learning.
jamorgan3777
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thanks very much for your feedback. I did some more watching at YouTube U (haha) and came to that same conclusion. Sounds like flux core and stick can deal with mill scale much better. Solid core depends more on clean surface and joints.
I also realized I had the polarity wrong. Was running DCEN instead of DCEP (welder came set up DCEN I assume because they think you will try flux core first) didnt even think to check it, but the chart says DCEP for gas shielded solid core wire welding). I will try that tonight.
I am also looking to build a welding table as one of my first real projects. Am having a little sticker shock from the prices at my local supplier (Speedy Metals in Wi). 2x2x1/8 wall square tube for ~$1/inch. I priced out the frame for a little 24x36 table and it was going to be over $300
Thanks again for the early help. Will post more updates as I try the fixes you suggest.
I also realized I had the polarity wrong. Was running DCEN instead of DCEP (welder came set up DCEN I assume because they think you will try flux core first) didnt even think to check it, but the chart says DCEP for gas shielded solid core wire welding). I will try that tonight.
I am also looking to build a welding table as one of my first real projects. Am having a little sticker shock from the prices at my local supplier (Speedy Metals in Wi). 2x2x1/8 wall square tube for ~$1/inch. I priced out the frame for a little 24x36 table and it was going to be over $300
Thanks again for the early help. Will post more updates as I try the fixes you suggest.
That pricing is absolutely ridiculous. $240 for a 20ft length of 2x2x1/8? I got four of those two weekends ago $24ea! (well they were 18 foot'ers, but still). You definitely need to shop elsewhere.jamorgan3777 wrote:thanks very much for your feedback. I did some more watching at YouTube U (haha) and came to that same conclusion. Sounds like flux core and stick can deal with mill scale much better. Solid core depends more on clean surface and joints.
I also realized I had the polarity wrong. Was running DCEN instead of DCEP (welder came set up DCEN I assume because they think you will try flux core first) didnt even think to check it, but the chart says DCEP for gas shielded solid core wire welding). I will try that tonight.
I am also looking to build a welding table as one of my first real projects. Am having a little sticker shock from the prices at my local supplier (Speedy Metals in Wi). 2x2x1/8 wall square tube for ~$1/inch. I priced out the frame for a little 24x36 table and it was going to be over $300
Thanks again for the early help. Will post more updates as I try the fixes you suggest.
jamorgan3777
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Thanks for the reality check on prices!
Ill call around and see what I get.
Edit: Wow, thanks for the metals supermarket suggestion. About 1/3 the cost of the other place!
Just ordered the materials for my welding table. We'll see what this turns into!
Ill call around and see what I get.
Edit: Wow, thanks for the metals supermarket suggestion. About 1/3 the cost of the other place!
Just ordered the materials for my welding table. We'll see what this turns into!
Now you have more money to spend on welding coupons and associated gearjamorgan3777 wrote:Thanks for the reality check on prices!
Ill call around and see what I get.
Edit: Wow, thanks for the metals supermarket suggestion. About 1/3 the cost of the other place!
Just ordered the materials for my welding table. We'll see what this turns into!
Just make sure you clean the mill scale about 1" from the ends on all joints when you weld that table up. And do yourself a small favor, get a can of non-chlorinated Brake Kleen and shoot the inside of the tubing as well near the ends (there's heaps of crap inside the tube) to help give you a super clean weld.
If you are going to hardwire MIG the frame, a trick I like, is to cut small pieces of 0.030 wire and lay it in between the joints, then weld. This creates a small gap to allow you to poor more wire into, making a stronger weldment. Not necessary on many fabrications, but a solid approach for building strong frames. Given you are new to welding, getting strong welds, deep penetration should be your sole focus. Pretty welds come later.
Also, understand welding the frame WILL cause distortion. So, tack up the joints all over the place. Weld outside corners first, then opposite inside corners. This helps minimize pulling out-of-square. Take your time. Welding is a game of patience and managing heat.
Check constantly with framing squares and speed squares to keep your frame just like you want it. And start a new thread when its time and document your project. You'll get tons of solid advice and nothing better than seeing a new welder succeed
Thanks for this tip CJ. I'm planning a table build and I'll keep this in mind.cj737 wrote:<snip>
If you are going to hardwire MIG the frame, a trick I like, is to cut small pieces of 0.030 wire and lay it in between the joints, then weld. This creates a small gap to allow you to poor more wire into, making a stronger weldment. Not necessary on many fabrications, but a solid approach for building strong frames. Given you are new to welding, getting strong welds, deep penetration should be your sole focus. Pretty welds come later.
David
Millermatic 130
Primeweld 225
Millermatic 130
Primeweld 225
finally a beginner that has a mig and not a flux core welderjamorgan3777 wrote: I am using a Hobart Handler 190 with solid core wire and Ar/CO2 75/25 shield gas.
clean the material ! ! ! !
you do not want to be tripping up over things, give yourself the best possible chance. really hard to learn if your fitting any of the variables that mig throws at you.
tweak it until it breaks
jamorgan3777
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Update on my second attempt.
Okay, lots of progress I think.
I reversed the polarity to DCEP as per the manual
I cleaned the pieces before welding
I practiced on a couple of T joints with 1/8" thick 2x2 square tube
Okay, lots of progress I think.
I reversed the polarity to DCEP as per the manual
I cleaned the pieces before welding
I practiced on a couple of T joints with 1/8" thick 2x2 square tube
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- This one looked okay, but was not very straight or long enough.
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- This one looked pretty good, but could have been a touch longer at the top
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- This one looked okay except for burning through the edge of the tube
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- This one was okay except for not being straight and having to patch it at the end.
- 20200922_193829.jpg (48.57 KiB) Viewed 3102 times
jamorgan3777
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If it's just on the cut-edges, then that's why I can't see it. I usually try to clear all the millscale/rust off about 3/8" to 1⁄2" all the way around. I guess I can't really tell because the weld is already there.
Welds look so much better. Good heat, wetted toes.
On a couple fo your welds, you will notice a crater at the end of the weld. Learn to rotate the gun back into the puddle right at the end to "fill" that crater before shutting off the arc. Craters will create stress cracks.
Now you just need to develop some rhythm and motion habits. Make small reversed Cs when you "pull" MIG. Touching each side or edge of the weldment. This insures you're getting equal heat to both sides and nice tie-ins.
Amazing what a bit of polarity can do for you, huh?
On a couple fo your welds, you will notice a crater at the end of the weld. Learn to rotate the gun back into the puddle right at the end to "fill" that crater before shutting off the arc. Craters will create stress cracks.
Now you just need to develop some rhythm and motion habits. Make small reversed Cs when you "pull" MIG. Touching each side or edge of the weldment. This insures you're getting equal heat to both sides and nice tie-ins.
Amazing what a bit of polarity can do for you, huh?
jamorgan3777
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Yes, it was a good session and I think I am making progress.
I did another one where I flap disc'ed the entire surface of the piece. That one didnt appear to show much difference. The mill scale on this looks much lighter than on the angle that I first tried. I'm gaining an appreciation of how much of the process is cleaning and prepping the parts.
Thanks for the input on the "holes" at the end. I had seen that same recommendation in a couple of videos, just need to make it a habit.
Going to try a couple more tonight and then maybe start welding up the legs for the welding table that will be my first project.
More to come!
I did another one where I flap disc'ed the entire surface of the piece. That one didnt appear to show much difference. The mill scale on this looks much lighter than on the angle that I first tried. I'm gaining an appreciation of how much of the process is cleaning and prepping the parts.
Thanks for the input on the "holes" at the end. I had seen that same recommendation in a couple of videos, just need to make it a habit.
Going to try a couple more tonight and then maybe start welding up the legs for the welding table that will be my first project.
More to come!
jamorgan3777
- jamorgan3777
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- 20200929_174650.jpg (48.94 KiB) Viewed 2872 times
- 20200929_174650.jpg (48.94 KiB) Viewed 2872 times
I know you cant really tell what the welds look like, but this was more about the entire process. Learned a lot.
First off about cutting things accurately. I have been a woodworker for decades, but turns out that accuracy in metal work is just as important
SEcond off, keeping things square and true. Learned to tack early and tack often. Lots of clamps and holding helps.
Third, tried to get even and consistent. Also got to feel things out in a number of positions. Up, down, push, pull, flat, corner, outside edge, etc. Was good to try welds in all different angles and positions.
Fourth, cleaning and prepping for the welds. Was good to get a routine worked out.
All in all successful and I plan to do a cart build next now that I have a table. Also drooling over a plasma cutter. Ha ha.
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jamorgan3777
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First project under my belt!
I know you cant really tell what the welds look like, but this was more about the entire process. Learned a lot.
First off about cutting things accurately. I have been a woodworker for decades, but turns out that accuracy in metal work is just as important
SEcond off, keeping things square and true. Learned to tack early and tack often. Lots of clamps and holding helps.
Third, tried to get even and consistent. Also got to feel things out in a number of positions. Up, down, push, pull, flat, corner, outside edge, etc. Was good to try welds in all different angles and positions.
Fourth, cleaning and prepping for the welds. Was good to get a routine worked out.
All in all successful and I plan to do a cart build next now that I have a table. Also drooling over a plasma cutter. Ha ha.
I know you cant really tell what the welds look like, but this was more about the entire process. Learned a lot.
First off about cutting things accurately. I have been a woodworker for decades, but turns out that accuracy in metal work is just as important
SEcond off, keeping things square and true. Learned to tack early and tack often. Lots of clamps and holding helps.
Third, tried to get even and consistent. Also got to feel things out in a number of positions. Up, down, push, pull, flat, corner, outside edge, etc. Was good to try welds in all different angles and positions.
Fourth, cleaning and prepping for the welds. Was good to get a routine worked out.
All in all successful and I plan to do a cart build next now that I have a table. Also drooling over a plasma cutter. Ha ha.
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- 20200929_174650.jpg (48.94 KiB) Viewed 2872 times
jamorgan3777
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Another update and progress I think.
Okay so I was on the YouTube and saw a reference to the jflf.org or the John F Lincoln Foundation. They sell practice kits (plates of metal cut and polished) to practice welding on. These are great!
I put together a sculpture of sorts to practice long consistent beads. Let me know what you think.
Okay so I was on the YouTube and saw a reference to the jflf.org or the John F Lincoln Foundation. They sell practice kits (plates of metal cut and polished) to practice welding on. These are great!
I put together a sculpture of sorts to practice long consistent beads. Let me know what you think.
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jamorgan3777
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brianstackpole11
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