[Poland308]

Well now that you’ve narrowed down your line of sight, I’d say even a miller Maxstar 210 with high freq might fall in your list.

[roncruiser]

Well now that you’ve narrowed down your line of sight, I’d say even a miller Maxstar 210 with high freq might fall in your list.

Sounds good but the price is beyond my reach.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Ron,

Where are you located at?

[cj737]

HF is really only required for AC capable TIG. I’ve welded thousands of miles of stainless and carbon with Lift Arc. Almost every pipeline welded I know that puts in a TIG root does as well. If you want to become a really competent TIG welder, start there.

Grab a multiprocess box, and learn to weld. You’ll have every process and all the features you require to weld competently, and dual voltage. You can even add a Spoolgun later to MIG aluminum. Portability, flexibility, and reliability. Most Lift Arc boxes do have amp control via foot or torch switch, so you can really tune your skills. They are simply unbeatable at your price range for the range they offer.

[roncruiser]

Ron,

Where are you located at?

San Diego, CA

HF is really only required for AC capable TIG. I’ve welded thousands of miles of stainless and carbon with Lift Arc. Almost every pipeline welded I know that puts in a TIG root does as well. If you want to become a really competent TIG welder, start there.

Grab a multiprocess box, and learn to weld. You’ll have every process and all the features you require to weld competently, and dual voltage. You can even add a Spoolgun later to MIG aluminum. Portability, flexibility, and reliability. Most Lift Arc boxes do have amp control via foot or torch switch, so you can really tune your skills. They are simply unbeatable at your price range for the range they offer.

I managed to get a MIG machine. The TIG I eventually purchase should have stick capability.

[cj737]

Whatever TIG box you buy, it will have Stick capabilities. If you opt for the PrimeWeld, you get the benefit of running AC Stick rods too.

6011/6013 rods will work flawlessly on that box, and even some success with 6010 apparently. But if it were me, I'd steer you towards 6013, DCEN and call it a day. I've never encountered a situation where that won't work as well as a 6010 on DCEP.

[TraditionalToolworks]

San Diego, CA

The reason I asked is you had the Everlast i-Tig 200T on your list.

I have an i-Tig 201, a very similar machine but not 6010 capable. I honestly haven't run it, was going to try this weekend. Mine is very lightly used, has all the original accessories, plus the Nova pedal I bought. I would sell it for $500. I wouldn't want to ship it as I don't have the original brown toilet paper box, but I do get down to Thousand Oaks where my Mom lives, occasionally.

However, I would recommend the Primeweld 225 also, and what I have now. It is probably slightly less capable in the stick department as it doesn't have any settings, no hot start no arc force, etc...but I could get 6010 to run and it has run every stick I have thrown at it, including the 6010. I have used it mostly all for tig.

For the price it's worth it to have AC, IMO. Also you mention Service and Support, Primeweld is much better than Everlast, hands down.

Every time I think about selling the i-Tig 201 I get cold feet as I think it's a good backup for me and there's nothing I would replace it with that is which wouldn't cost me more money. If I was looking for better stick capability I would think about the ESAB miniarc 180i, it has lift tig, but the i-Tig 201 is light years ahead on tig with many features including pulse.

The Primeweld rocks, I'm very happy with it.

[roncruiser]

San Diego, CA

The reason I asked is you had the Everlast i-Tig 200T on your list.

I have an i-Tig 201, a very similar machine but not 6010 capable. I honestly haven't run it, was going to try this weekend. Mine is very lightly used, has all the original accessories, plus the Nova pedal I bought. I would sell it for $500. I wouldn't want to ship it as I don't have the original brown toilet paper box, but I do get down to Thousand Oaks where my Mom lives, occasionally.

However, I would recommend the Primeweld 225 also, and what I have now. It is probably slightly less capable in the stick department as it doesn't have any settings, no hot start no arc force, etc...but I could get 6010 to run and it has run every stick I have thrown at it, including the 6010. I have used it mostly all for tig.

For the price it's worth it to have AC, IMO. Also you mention Service and Support, Primeweld is much better than Everlast, hands down.

Every time I think about selling the i-Tig 201 I get cold feet as I think it's a good backup for me and there's nothing I would replace it with that is which wouldn't cost me more money. If I was looking for better stick capability I would think about the ESAB miniarc 180i, it has lift tig, but the i-Tig 201 is light years ahead on tig with many features including pulse.

The Primeweld rocks, I'm very happy with it.

Thanks for the offer Alan, but unless I have a last minute change of heart, looks like I'll be purchasing the Primeweld 225X AC/DC.

[roncruiser]

San Diego, CA

The reason I asked is you had the Everlast i-Tig 200T on your list.

I have an i-Tig 201, a very similar machine but not 6010 capable. I honestly haven't run it, was going to try this weekend. Mine is very lightly used, has all the original accessories, plus the Nova pedal I bought. I would sell it for $500. I wouldn't want to ship it as I don't have the original brown toilet paper box, but I do get down to Thousand Oaks where my Mom lives, occasionally.

However, I would recommend the Primeweld 225 also, and what I have now. It is probably slightly less capable in the stick department as it doesn't have any settings, no hot start no arc force, etc...but I could get 6010 to run and it has run every stick I have thrown at it, including the 6010. I have used it mostly all for tig.

For the price it's worth it to have AC, IMO. Also you mention Service and Support, Primeweld is much better than Everlast, hands down.

Every time I think about selling the i-Tig 201 I get cold feet as I think it's a good backup for me and there's nothing I would replace it with that is which wouldn't cost me more money. If I was looking for better stick capability I would think about the ESAB miniarc 180i, it has lift tig, but the i-Tig 201 is light years ahead on tig with many features including pulse.

The Primeweld rocks, I'm very happy with it.

Thanks for the offer Alan, but looks like I'm leaning to the Primeweld 225X AC/DC. Not totally convinced just yet with the Primeweld. Either way I'm going with a new machine.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Thanks for the offer Alan, but looks like I'm leaning to the Primeweld 225X AC/DC. Not totally convinced just yet with the Primeweld. Either way I'm going with a new machine.

Understood, not even really trying to sell it, it's a great 2nd machine for me to have and does stick just fine, and almost half the weight of the Primeweld.

Get the best machine you can afford, buy once, cry once. I understand about buying new, although I rarely do that. I wouldn't buy a new Everlast, but that's me. No more green weenies. That's the attraction of selling it, although it works fine, the idea of having no Everlast anything is a carrot. That's why I'd even be willing to loose money...

[roncruiser]

Well now that you’ve narrowed down your line of sight, I’d say even a miller Maxstar 210 with high freq might fall in your list.

Not out of the question. Cry once.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Well now that you’ve narrowed down your line of sight, I’d say even a miller Maxstar 210 with high freq might fall in your list.

Not out of the question. Cry once.

Seriously Ron, if you're considering the Maxstar 210, just bite the bullet and get the Dynasty 210DX, I was eyeing it on Cyberweld recently at about $3700, but pretty content with my Primeweld for the price. I've got other fish to fry other than yet another welder.

[roncruiser]

I've decided on the Primeweld. Order placed.

[tweake]

HF is really only required for AC capable TIG. I’ve welded thousands of miles of stainless and carbon with Lift Arc. Almost every pipeline welded I know that puts in a TIG root does as well. If you want to become a really competent TIG welder, start there.

Grab a multiprocess box, and learn to weld. You’ll have every process and all the features you require to weld competently, and dual voltage. You can even add a Spoolgun later to MIG aluminum. Portability, flexibility, and reliability. Most Lift Arc boxes do have amp control via foot or torch switch, so you can really tune your skills. They are simply unbeatable at your price range for the range they offer.

as much has i've said to get HF tig, the other day i did some stainless pipe, my new welder is not strong on the HF and really dislikes stainless. it just misfired so many times i got sick of it and switched to lift start.
it actually was not as bad as the multi welder is. a quick tap and it fired up nicely. slow tap and it sticks and breaks the tip off.

[cj737]

as much has i've said to get HF tig, the other day i did some stainless pipe, my new welder is not strong on the HF and really dislikes stainless. it just misfired so many times i got sick of it and switched to lift start.
it actually was not as bad as the multi welder is. a quick tap and it fired up nicely. slow tap and it sticks and breaks the tip off.

I use Lift Arc on my Dynasty constantly when I have a large piece that I have to move around a lot and weld. Sucks dragging a pedal everywhere and some out-of-position welding requirements. Set my amps, (maybe pulse) and go. Love it for tacking. When the job discourages arc starts, a scrap piece of material laid on adjacent to the weld is perfect for starting on then whipping over into the weld area. Fastest means possible of getting it done.

I've used a few different buttons with varying outcomes. I'll take a pedal or straight amps with Lift Arc. Maybe I'm too old to learn something new...

[Coldman]

I use the peddle for bench work. I use lift arc sometimes but it has the disadvantage of having to snap out risking stray arc strike and also no possibility of pulsing.
Mostly I use a torch mounted hf switch or button that I can spin to locate under my left or right thumb depending on which hand I'm using. I can position the tungsten precisely for a start, can trail off to avoid a fish eye and can pulse when I need to control heat or for repositioning in an awkward situation. Torch switch or button for me.

[roncruiser]

The Primeweld arrived while I was on vacation. A welcome surprise indeed! Will be setting up over the next couple days. I have a lot of questions already.

[BackRoad]

Roncruiser, so it's ~45 days later after the unboxing...

Q1. What's the latest on using the new Primeweld???

Q2. Did you order any addional add-on components when you placed the order?

Q3. Have you found anything you want to add, now that you've used it for a bit?

...//TJ

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