Technically my welder (Millermatic 211) is rated for 3/16” single pass on 110v household outlet, but I want to hear opinions on this.
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Hm, I'd say it depends more on the single pass aspect and if you're talking mig or flux core that might challenge it's ability to weld 3/16.
However, to answer your question, ABSOLUTELY, provided you've got it cranked to the max are using flux core wire and running on a greater than 20 amp breaker, which is against code unless you run heavier gauge wire in which case why not wire for 240V in the first place, OR make it a dedicated welder only circuit, The duty cycle of the machine would practically allow you to run 16 gauge wire with a 30 amp breaker for the machine and be within code. However, you WILL draw more than 20 amps on 115v maxed out which will inevitably trip the breaker mid weld. I've a Hobart 210, which is very similar, and it definitely trips a 20 amp breaker on maximum voltage with the wire speed set to match.
Now, realistically, if you don't care about electrical code, will anything happen if you switch a 20 amp breaker to a 25 or 30 amp single pole breaker? Almost certainly no, and definitely not from the machine, the wire size specs for a given breaker size is assuming continuous non stop load, thus if you switched your 20 amp breaker to 30 amps to avoid tripping it, then ran a pair of space heaters drawing 25+ amps, eventually after a number of hours or days the wires could heat up to the point you'd potentially have a serious issue or outright fire. I personally have a 30 amp breaker wired with 12 gauge feeding a 115v outlet on my welding subpanel, I sometimes I've had to use it with 100s of feet of extension cord to repair a trailer, other times I'm too lazy to drag out the big thick 240v cable and just run my tig welder on 115v using a 14ga extension cord. I'll run grinders off it etc, On the most extreme cases, like daisy chaining extension cords or running a 14ga cable on a machine drawing over 20 amps for an extended time, I've had the cables get pretty warm to the touch, nothing melted, nothing burst into flames. However again, it's not an outlet that a space heater, multiple people running grinders or welding etc could be used on.
All this to say, yes, you absolutely can weld 3/16 on 115V with that machine, I've done the same with my Hobart 210MVP, hell I've welded 1/4. But you'll need to run it hot enough to trip the breaker, and you'll either need to rewire anyway, or change the breaker and make sure there's nothing else on that circuit that might continuously draw a lot of power.
However, to answer your question, ABSOLUTELY, provided you've got it cranked to the max are using flux core wire and running on a greater than 20 amp breaker, which is against code unless you run heavier gauge wire in which case why not wire for 240V in the first place, OR make it a dedicated welder only circuit, The duty cycle of the machine would practically allow you to run 16 gauge wire with a 30 amp breaker for the machine and be within code. However, you WILL draw more than 20 amps on 115v maxed out which will inevitably trip the breaker mid weld. I've a Hobart 210, which is very similar, and it definitely trips a 20 amp breaker on maximum voltage with the wire speed set to match.
Now, realistically, if you don't care about electrical code, will anything happen if you switch a 20 amp breaker to a 25 or 30 amp single pole breaker? Almost certainly no, and definitely not from the machine, the wire size specs for a given breaker size is assuming continuous non stop load, thus if you switched your 20 amp breaker to 30 amps to avoid tripping it, then ran a pair of space heaters drawing 25+ amps, eventually after a number of hours or days the wires could heat up to the point you'd potentially have a serious issue or outright fire. I personally have a 30 amp breaker wired with 12 gauge feeding a 115v outlet on my welding subpanel, I sometimes I've had to use it with 100s of feet of extension cord to repair a trailer, other times I'm too lazy to drag out the big thick 240v cable and just run my tig welder on 115v using a 14ga extension cord. I'll run grinders off it etc, On the most extreme cases, like daisy chaining extension cords or running a 14ga cable on a machine drawing over 20 amps for an extended time, I've had the cables get pretty warm to the touch, nothing melted, nothing burst into flames. However again, it's not an outlet that a space heater, multiple people running grinders or welding etc could be used on.
All this to say, yes, you absolutely can weld 3/16 on 115V with that machine, I've done the same with my Hobart 210MVP, hell I've welded 1/4. But you'll need to run it hot enough to trip the breaker, and you'll either need to rewire anyway, or change the breaker and make sure there's nothing else on that circuit that might continuously draw a lot of power.
I’m talking about mig. I’ve practiced on a few 3/16” puzzles/practice coupons and it seems to be working without tripping my breaker on the machines auto set setting for 3/16”.sbaker56 wrote:Hm, I'd say it depends more on the single pass aspect and if you're talking mig or flux core that might challenge it's ability to weld 3/16.
However, to answer your question, ABSOLUTELY, provided you've got it cranked to the max are using flux core wire and running on a greater than 20 amp breaker, which is against code unless you run heavier gauge wire in which case why not wire for 240V in the first place, OR make it a dedicated welder only circuit, The duty cycle of the machine would practically allow you to run 16 gauge wire with a 30 amp breaker for the machine and be within code. However, you WILL draw more than 20 amps on 115v maxed out which will inevitably trip the breaker mid weld. I've a Hobart 210, which is very similar, and it definitely trips a 20 amp breaker on maximum voltage with the wire speed set to match.
Now, realistically, if you don't care about electrical code, will anything happen if you switch a 20 amp breaker to a 25 or 30 amp single pole breaker? Almost certainly no, and definitely not from the machine, the wire size specs for a given breaker size is assuming continuous non stop load, thus if you switched your 20 amp breaker to 30 amps to avoid tripping it, then ran a pair of space heaters drawing 25+ amps, eventually after a number of hours or days the wires could heat up to the point you'd potentially have a serious issue or outright fire. I personally have a 30 amp breaker wired with 12 gauge feeding a 115v outlet on my welding subpanel, I sometimes I've had to use it with 100s of feet of extension cord to repair a trailer, other times I'm too lazy to drag out the big thick 240v cable and just run my tig welder on 115v using a 14ga extension cord. I'll run grinders off it etc, On the most extreme cases, like daisy chaining extension cords or running a 14ga cable on a machine drawing over 20 amps for an extended time, I've had the cables get pretty warm to the touch, nothing melted, nothing burst into flames. However again, it's not an outlet that a space heater, multiple people running grinders or welding etc could be used on.
All this to say, yes, you absolutely can weld 3/16 on 115V with that machine, I've done the same with my Hobart 210MVP, hell I've welded 1/4. But you'll need to run it hot enough to trip the breaker, and you'll either need to rewire anyway, or change the breaker and make sure there's nothing else on that circuit that might continuously draw a lot of power.
Do you think these have good enough penetration? Or is it impossible to tell from this pic. I’m gonna have my boss over to help me, so don’t worry about my lack of skill for the real load bearing part.
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IMO, you need X-ray eyes to see the penetration.
Yeah, unless you x-ray or break it you'll never know for sure. It's why when I'm going to do an important weld, especially in a rare situation where I only have 120v, I do a couple break tests and a cut and etch using similar settings and joint configuration as I'll be using later. Eventually you'll know exactly what your machine can and cannot do pretty well and it's why its never a bad idea to invent situations during downtime playing in the shop to test so that you'll already know the results if the situation comes up for real later on.