I have a classic 300d that I run my control module and then off of that I have my sg spool gun. WELL I am wondering why it did not weld anything like I wanted to. Would burn back the wire all the way to tip and then would hit the metal and just ball and was absolutely crap. Would go up in temp and change wire speed. Was trying everything! Could someone help me please! Maybe the type of wire I was using wasn't right. It's Lincoln's super glaze, but forgot what type. Any help would be great thanks.
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mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
- Otto Nobedder
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Since this is a spool-gun question, I'll move it to the MIG section. You'll likely get more response there.
Steve S
Steve S
- ShakaWelding
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- AKweldshop
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Shaka,
Steve moved your post to a better section.
As to your trouble,
Do you have dcep for the current??
Have you tried different wfs?
I like to turn it up till it stubs, than ease it back to a sizzle.
Do you have some pics??
Steve moved your post to a better section.
As to your trouble,
Do you have dcep for the current??
Have you tried different wfs?
I like to turn it up till it stubs, than ease it back to a sizzle.
Do you have some pics??
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- ShakaWelding
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I'm pretty sure I had it on the right current. I tried different wfs and different temp and everything under the sun it seems like. I am going to use it again shortly and will take pictures.
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I have the same gun. What is your wire size? Where is your voltage set at? How thick is the base metal? Did you use acetone or wire wheel etc to clean up the aluminum? Did you buy the gun new?
Could ask more questions but let's start there.
Could ask more questions but let's start there.
Be the monkey....
- ShakaWelding
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I'm running .035 wire, I tried many different voltages. Base material was 1/8" and I used a stainless steel brush to clean up very well. Gun is not brand new but seems to be in good condition. Also when I have the wire out of the nozzle and touch it to the alum it's starts the arc BUT I didn't even pull the trigger. The trigger does work and feeds the wire through but as soon as I touch it it starts.
I use the module to run the gun and have the module running off my classic 300D
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I use the module to run the gun and have the module running off my classic 300D
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The wire will always be live keep that in mind. I run a very similar setup to yours. You will need to make sure your are switched to 'v on the 300d and electrode positive just like regular mig also make sure you have pure argon. No mix unless its with helium. Your wire speed will have to be close to 80% of full speed (which is around 650ipm on that gun). I always max out the rheostat on the module and just adjust with the dial in the gun handle. Your voltage should be at least 21v. You will have to play with this a bit but start there. Your adjustments should be in small doses as well from there. Feel free to ask more if you need.
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- ShakaWelding
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Switched to v? Not quiet sure of what you mean with that. Everything else I'm going to give a try. Thanks for your help! Really appreciate the help
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It was supposed to say CV. Sorry. One thing I always do to is my tips are one size bigger than the wire. So with .035 I use a .045 tip. Some say not to do this but I have found it effective. If I run the same size tip the heat makes the already soft aluminum start to rub off and stick inside the tip quickly causing a gummied up mess.
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- ShakaWelding
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On my classic I don't have a cv or cc switch. I will show you some pics of the set up and maybe that will help.
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I have found your problem.... If your 300D doesn't have a CV connection, meaning its a rod burner only (or tig), a spool gun will not work. Module or not it must be on a CV power source. All might is CV and all stick/tig is CC. CV module can be purchased andadded to your machine (I think check with Lincoln) but they must be hard wired into the coils and become a permanent attachment to the welder. Sorry to disappoint you on this one. Double check with your welder repair shop or Lincoln tech support.
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