Im a newbie. Just getting to the point where I can lay down a fairly decent looking bead, at least one that doesn't look like a caterpillar. I have heard that its best not to get stuff to hot and one way is not doing long continuous beads. I been trying to do short beads allowing material to cool some before continuing with next section of bead. I would like to be able to make the transition from the end of a bead to the beginning of the next a little smoother. Its VERY obvious where my beads start and end. Its very obvious my longer welds are a series of interconnected beads. Is there a method for making a smoother transition from the end of a bead to the beginning of the next so it looks a little more like a continuous bead rather than a series of connected beads?
Miller 211 set at 4.5/40 running on 220
Practicing on 1/8" x 1-1/2" sq tubing
using 70S-6 .30 wire and 75/25 gas.
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Welcome on!
You'll never completely conceal bead transitions, but one way to minimize them is to back-step in your progression. I'll try to explain it this way... consider a 12" weld (assuming everything is tacked up very firmly)... If you weld the right-most three inches in a left-to-right progression, you would then weld the next three inches left-to-right also, so your second weld stops on the start-point of your first weld. In this case, you would not hold at the end to fill the end crater, as you're on top of the previous start. This makes a smoother transition.
I hope this makes sense.
Steve S
You'll never completely conceal bead transitions, but one way to minimize them is to back-step in your progression. I'll try to explain it this way... consider a 12" weld (assuming everything is tacked up very firmly)... If you weld the right-most three inches in a left-to-right progression, you would then weld the next three inches left-to-right also, so your second weld stops on the start-point of your first weld. In this case, you would not hold at the end to fill the end crater, as you're on top of the previous start. This makes a smoother transition.
I hope this makes sense.
Steve S
Edgewalker
- Edgewalker
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Active Member
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Joined:Tue Mar 29, 2016 2:12 pm
I use that exact method whenever it is possible, and when I get to where the welds meet, I like to make a small whip motion right before I let off the trigger. It makes them blend together nicely and reduces the bulb shape at the end of the second weld. I don't know what effect it has on the structural integrity of the weld but I have not had any problems with this method.Otto Nobedder wrote:Welcome on!
You'll never completely conceal bead transitions, but one way to minimize them is to back-step in your progression. I'll try to explain it this way... consider a 12" weld (assuming everything is tacked up very firmly)... If you weld the right-most three inches in a left-to-right progression, you would then weld the next three inches left-to-right also, so your second weld stops on the start-point of your first weld. In this case, you would not hold at the end to fill the end crater, as you're on top of the previous start. This makes a smoother transition.
I hope this makes sense.
Steve S
Maybe look for videos of tubing being welded. Those welds are usually tied in together.