I will have a swimming pool!
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mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
What it might lack in power it makes up for in a very nice arc, nicer than a Miller as I've owned both. It also has a lot more synergic programs that are pretty convenient. I'm pretty sure they list the 77°F duty cycle rating since a lot of times it will be relegated to shop use. It was just a suggestion, it's all good, carry on.Simclardy wrote:The ProPulse 220 MTS has a lower amperage range than my machine!
The duty cycle is deceptive with the ambient temperature @77. Notice their duty cycle drops to 25% at 104°f
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No worries. I Appreciate all the inputOscar wrote:What it might lack in power it makes up for in a very nice arc, nicer than a Miller as I've owned both. It also has a lot more synergic programs that are pretty convenient. I'm pretty sure they list the 77°F duty cycle rating since a lot of times it will be relegated to shop use. It was just a suggestion, it's all good, carry on.Simclardy wrote:The ProPulse 220 MTS has a lower amperage range than my machine!
The duty cycle is deceptive with the ambient temperature @77. Notice their duty cycle drops to 25% at 104°f
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So i ran 6011 1/8" 90amps for the root. 7018 1/8" 120amps for fill and cap.
I don't have the photo of the caps because my battery was dying.
My gap was too tight, easy to fix. On the real beam
I had a hard time with the ends of the flange. I read that i can add a run off plate, but was wondering what guys usually do in the field? I was starting to feel in control at the end but i would much rather fmaw. I think i will stick the first and then wire weld the second.
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I don't have the photo of the caps because my battery was dying.
My gap was too tight, easy to fix. On the real beam
I had a hard time with the ends of the flange. I read that i can add a run off plate, but was wondering what guys usually do in the field? I was starting to feel in control at the end but i would much rather fmaw. I think i will stick the first and then wire weld the second.
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- weldin mike 27
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You can see i did not get full penetration due to the tight gap.
I did pick up this toy to keep my 7018 fresh.
Seems like they might burn a bit better? But i honestly have done very little stick welding. So i could be imagining.
I hope to get some 1/8" 6010 today. I have it in my head i would prefer it over 6011. Not sure why.
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I did pick up this toy to keep my 7018 fresh.
Seems like they might burn a bit better? But i honestly have done very little stick welding. So i could be imagining.
I hope to get some 1/8" 6010 today. I have it in my head i would prefer it over 6011. Not sure why.
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- Radishfever
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Unfortunately being unqualified to comment on the welds I will just comment on your presentation.
The pictures and information have been very good.
The pictures and information have been very good.
Learning is the best part of life and the most painful
Thanks.Radishfever wrote:Unfortunately being unqualified to comment on the welds I will just comment on your presentation.
The pictures and information have been very good.
Here is the actual beam prepped.
I will probably do one more practice i beam before the real weld.
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- Radishfever
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Simclardy,
I’m sure Oscar means we’ll but he makes me skeptical of his real knowledge. I asked him last week to post pictures of his work and he said he didn’t have any or anytime to make stuff.
Make sure you are aware of the background of the information providers. Honesty and integrity are no longer social garauntees.
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I’m sure Oscar means we’ll but he makes me skeptical of his real knowledge. I asked him last week to post pictures of his work and he said he didn’t have any or anytime to make stuff.
Make sure you are aware of the background of the information providers. Honesty and integrity are no longer social garauntees.
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Learning is the best part of life and the most painful
Oh, I'm honest alright. I make it no secret that I'm a hobbyist, but that doesn't mean I can't absorb knowledge. Honestly my greatest asset is my educational background that lets me study and analyze things in great detail, meaning complicated engineering type disciplines. I can read and understand a lot of "white papers" that will simply go over the heads of others simply because they don't have the academic background/studies when it comes down to the real nitty gritty details. I have a degree in mathematics and physics, and while I'm not a real weldor out in the field, I do pay attention to those who do know, and I collectively interpolate/extrapolate information. I have made some weldments up to 1/2", and while I'm not perfect, I have a very keen sense of knowing what I don't know. So recent projects, honestly nope. Very little time as of late. But several time a week after work or on the weekend, I round up scrap and experiment, and experiment, and experiment, to answer a lot of my own questions that arise from other questions I have seen. So yeap, only take my advice for what it is worth. No problem there.
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Thank you Oscar,
I apologize if I offended you. That was straight up honest.
By the way, I buy expensive stuff for hobbies also. Just spread out a little more.
My brother Chris is a Physicist and works in Perrysburg, Ohio. Not exactly taking the easy way out!
Peace on Earth
Kirk
I apologize if I offended you. That was straight up honest.
By the way, I buy expensive stuff for hobbies also. Just spread out a little more.
My brother Chris is a Physicist and works in Perrysburg, Ohio. Not exactly taking the easy way out!
Peace on Earth
Kirk
Learning is the best part of life and the most painful
No problem, as you are totally right, as you never really know what people have or have not done. A lot of times I just 'monkey see monkey do'. If I see an interesting weld configuration or filler metal or process, sometimes I just have to try it on my own to see what it's all about. That's how I amassed a huge collection of filler rod/wire. I have aerospace alloys (Hastelloy-W, Hastelloy-X, Inconel-625, SuperMissile Weld, Grade 5 titanium, Grade 23 Titanium) that I will have very little use for (which I have actually used), but I just had to 'try it myself' after watching a lot of videos on YouTube! A year or so ago, I got an itch to try open-root pipe welding with 6010 and 7018, so a I went to the steel yard, bought a 6" sch40 pipe, sawed off coupons and just went at it! Why? I'm no pipe welder? But I just 'had to try it'! So yea, I'm not a pro weldor, but I've seen it all and done it all, in a way! LOL Now that I think of it, I now have an itch to try to weld up I-beams!! Funny how that works. I'm gonna pick up some I-beams tomorrow morning, just for the heck of it! That's how this Texas boy learns! I'll post some pictures by Sunday of my I-beam welds!
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I don't know about religion, but it sure is fun. I called around and no one stocks 6"-8" I-beams with a web thickness more than 1/4". Guess I'll just have to manufacture my own I-beams from 3/8" thick flat-bar, so I can chop them up and weld them back together! Good thing there is no shortage of welding machines here.
A rod warmer is good idea to keep 7018 from picking up moisture. But I've read it won't make too much of a different on reg' ol' mild steel. Now if you're pipe-welding on low-alloy steel, then hydrogen embrittlement might become an issue if using 7018 that has picked up moisture.Simclardy wrote:You can see i did not get full penetration due to the tight gap.
I did pick up this toy to keep my 7018 fresh.
Seems like they might burn a bit better? But i honestly have done very little stick welding. So i could be imagining.
I hope to get some 1/8" 6010 today. I have it in my head i would prefer it over 6011. Not sure why.
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6010 will run just a lil' bit smoother than 6011 on DCEP, and the slag is a little bit easier to chip/wire-wheel off, but 6011 can still be made to work well for a steel project like this, IMO. I like to keep the ripples tighter though. It makes slag clean-up a lot easier to deal with.
I was thinking a tighter ripple would be better. It's hard to see your photo, but i get the idea. Im sure the beam is a low carbon steel but it's peace of mind.Oscar wrote:A rod warmer is good idea to keep 7018 from picking up moisture. But I've read it won't make too much of a different on reg' ol' mild steel. Now if you're pipe-welding on low-alloy steel, then hydrogen embrittlement might become an issue if using 7018 that has picked up moisture.Simclardy wrote:You can see i did not get full penetration due to the tight gap.
I did pick up this toy to keep my 7018 fresh.
Seems like they might burn a bit better? But i honestly have done very little stick welding. So i could be imagining.
I hope to get some 1/8" 6010 today. I have it in my head i would prefer it over 6011. Not sure why.
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6010 will run just a lil' bit smoother than 6011 on DCEP, and the slag is a little bit easier to chip/wire-wheel off, but 6011 can still be made to work well for a steel project like this, IMO. I like to keep the ripples tighter though. It makes slag clean-up a lot easier to deal with.
They say the sun may come out today!
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- Radishfever
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No stirring here,Louie1961 wrote:It seems to me you think you know everything. Are you only here to stir the pot? I haven't seen any constructive input from you yet.
Meant no harm,
Kirk
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- No Stirring.jpg (54.74 KiB) Viewed 3468 times
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- No Stirring-3.jpg (52.12 KiB) Viewed 3468 times
Learning is the best part of life and the most painful
So i did another practice splice. This time i did it in place so i would get overheard and vertical practice.
The overhead was ok the vertical not so good. Two improvements, i gaped it the ful 1/8, and I did use a scrap piece to start the welds and then run into the beam. This worked excellent. I was having a hard time starting the 7018 just on the edge of the flange without slag inclusions.
Unfortunately i ran out of 6011. So the real splice will have to wait until i get my 6010 rods.
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The overhead was ok the vertical not so good. Two improvements, i gaped it the ful 1/8, and I did use a scrap piece to start the welds and then run into the beam. This worked excellent. I was having a hard time starting the 7018 just on the edge of the flange without slag inclusions.
Unfortunately i ran out of 6011. So the real splice will have to wait until i get my 6010 rods.
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- Radishfever
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Impressed by the amount of effort you are expelling on this beam.
You already know I'm not qualified but those welds are looking better to me. This is really good, real life, experience to be witnessing. Because you are being responsible and working out a weld schedule.
You already know I'm not qualified but those welds are looking better to me. This is really good, real life, experience to be witnessing. Because you are being responsible and working out a weld schedule.
Learning is the best part of life and the most painful
Thanks mr. Radish. I appreciate the support. Lol i actually do appreciate all the support. Even if your not a pro welder it helps me to feel like I'm accountable to someone.Radishfever wrote:Impressed by the amount of effort you are expelling on this beam.
You already know I'm not qualified but those welds are looking better to me. This is really good, real life, experience to be witnessing. Because you are being responsible and working out a weld schedule.
Did you survive the storm? We had a bit of wind and rain, but i probably would not have thought it was anything special if it had not been all over the news.
Cheers
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