Welding Tips and Tricks

I'm looking to weld 2 pcs of 1/2" thick AR400 to the top of a railroad track to make an anvil. I'll cut the 2'x2' piece into 4" wide strips with acetylene torch, then try to weld to the railroad track.

Here's my question: I have a Lincoln 140 thats 110v. If I use 35 wire and shield gas will I be able to get penetration? I can bug my uncle for access to his 220v machine but I'd rather not hassle him and take the time. But I want it to be solid. It doesn't need to be over engineered, but solid.

I've learned that preheating is important with AR steel and not clamping it down to tight to store stress from heat expansion. Just not sure my welder is big enough.

Thanks in advance.

Not a chance. A 110v welder won’t begin to produce enough heat to weld 1/2” anything.

Even if you did weld it by padding a lot of smaller beads, you'd be spending 90% of the time waiting for your machine to cool down enough for it to make another bead.

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Welding on rail road track is never a good idea. Rail road track is high carbon steel. Your setting yourself up for failure. Especially with a 120v welder.

3/32 7018 at 85 amps. Multi pass 5 or 6 beads. No problem do all day long.

Edit
I’m guessing your making shooting targets.

I'm making an anvil. Went with the suggestion of adding hardened alloy steel to the top. Now I'm second guessing that decision. I can add some other plating to the top or just leave it and level the top of it.

I can always bug my uncle again and use his 220v welder. Thanks.

The right way is to uses E11018-D2 and per heat to 200°
Now E11018-D2 is high cost
Most time you use E7018 and per heat to 250°. The rod need per heat for a few hours above 250°.

What way you go per heat the metal above 250° then weld

Dave

Josh MacD wrote:I'm looking to weld 2 pcs of 1/2" thick AR400 to the top of a railroad track to make an anvil. I'll cut the 2'x2' piece into 4" wide strips with acetylene torch, then try to weld to the railroad track.

Here's my question: I have a Lincoln 140 thats 110v. If I use 35 wire and shield gas will I be able to get penetration? I can bug my uncle for access to his 220v machine but I'd rather not hassle him and take the time. But I want it to be solid. It doesn't need to be over engineered, but solid.

I've learned that preheating is important with AR steel and not clamping it down to tight to store stress from heat expansion. Just not sure my welder is big enough.

Thanks in advance.

smithdoor wrote:The right way is to uses E11018-D2 and per heat to 200°
Now E11018-D2 is high cost
Most time you use E7018 and per heat to 250°. The rod need per heat for a few hours above 250°.

What way you go per heat the metal above 250° then weld

Dave

Josh MacD wrote:I'm looking to weld 2 pcs of 1/2" thick AR400 to the top of a railroad track to make an anvil. I'll cut the 2'x2' piece into 4" wide strips with acetylene torch, then try to weld to the railroad track.

Here's my question: I have a Lincoln 140 thats 110v. If I use 35 wire and shield gas will I be able to get penetration? I can bug my uncle for access to his 220v machine but I'd rather not hassle him and take the time. But I want it to be solid. It doesn't need to be over engineered, but solid.

I've learned that preheating is important with AR steel and not clamping it down to tight to store stress from heat expansion. Just not sure my welder is big enough.

Thanks in advance.

Yup pre heat is super important when your welding thin to really thick/mass. Plus this sounds like (anvil) it’s a part that you do care about if it fails. Surface hardening may hav3 it’s benefits on the top layer of weld at the working edges. Or any other points that are wear points. Hard surface rod/wire always does better with a proper preheat.

smithdoor wrote:Now E11018-D2 is high cost

It's not too bad. $200 for 50lbs of Hobart E11018. A 50lb tin of 7018 is $130-150 anyways. What's $50?

Oscar wrote: It's not too bad. $200 for 50lbs of Hobart E11018. A 50lb tin of 7018 is $130-150 anyways. What's $50?

If only 10 or 20 pounds that would be costly. Still not cheap
Back 1960's and 1970's welding supplier you could buy by the pound.

You can buy flux core wire it may come in 30 pounds but last time I look it was only in 60 pound coils.

Dave

But if you need it, you need it.

Oscar wrote:But if you need it, you need it.

Very true
Yes I have buy on high price but I charge for it in job and was happy for add profit.

Dave

Something to keep in mind. The rail road companies never ever weld on track with electric arc welding processes. There’s a reason for that.

snoeproe wrote:Something to keep in mind. The rail road companies never ever weld on track with electric arc welding processes. There’s a reason for that.

Welding companies do make rod and wire for rail.
The rail road dose put exspandtion joints and use thremal welding joints to safe on labor.

Dave

smithdoor wrote:The rail road dose put exspandtion joints and use thremal welding joints to safe on labor.

Yup.. They usually use thermite to join/weld tracks together.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7JfNBmcjXo

Also why you should not dump a mix of rusty steel and aluminium chips/shavings in a big bucket.. Can get kinda 'hot' fast

Bye, Arno.

Have you done any metallurgic analysis on the AR400 steel. 1/2' might not be worth a carrot on top of track, even. I did try some rebound test on 1/4 plate and the rebound was worse than a plate of 1'' A36, had potential in the 64% range next to where I had it clamped real tight to a thick piece of mild steel. If rebound is not your concern and you just want a face that will work harden the plate has manganese in some quantity I think it has potential as an anvil face.