Issues with "round" weld beads
Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 3:19 am
Hi all,
I've been practicing MIG welding and I noticed that, in particular, when welding inside corner joints, the weld bead tends to be round with a lot of undercut. On butt welds this is less so. I turned up the amperage and fiddled with the wire speed and the butt welds seem to be coming out a lot flatter and looking good. However, the inside corner welds are still kicking my arse.
I've been welding forehand (oops. leftover from OAW) and after checking the "stickout" articles, I notice that my contact is recessed about 38". I'm going to cut down the the tip so that the stickout is flush. Any other tips for welding inside corner welds? I'm doing 90 degree welds of thin tubing to a thicker flange. The one that's really killing me is a flange with a transition tube that goes from 1.5" at the flange to 2.5". This makes the space for the torch pretty tight and with only about 70 degrees to work with and so the weld never "sits in there". It always grabs either the flange or the tube and looks like the "dogs turd" that everyone talks about....
I'm wondering if I should cut a nozzle so that the contact tip is actually protruding.
Help a fella out?
thanks.
I've been practicing MIG welding and I noticed that, in particular, when welding inside corner joints, the weld bead tends to be round with a lot of undercut. On butt welds this is less so. I turned up the amperage and fiddled with the wire speed and the butt welds seem to be coming out a lot flatter and looking good. However, the inside corner welds are still kicking my arse.
I've been welding forehand (oops. leftover from OAW) and after checking the "stickout" articles, I notice that my contact is recessed about 38". I'm going to cut down the the tip so that the stickout is flush. Any other tips for welding inside corner welds? I'm doing 90 degree welds of thin tubing to a thicker flange. The one that's really killing me is a flange with a transition tube that goes from 1.5" at the flange to 2.5". This makes the space for the torch pretty tight and with only about 70 degrees to work with and so the weld never "sits in there". It always grabs either the flange or the tube and looks like the "dogs turd" that everyone talks about....
I'm wondering if I should cut a nozzle so that the contact tip is actually protruding.
Help a fella out?
thanks.