mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
March993
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New forum member here, and I'd really appreciate some input from the group.

I am just learning to weld as a hobby, but my welds are horrible so far and I'm really struggling with how to improve. The photo is of some 16-gauge 1.5" square tubing that I was trying to weld. I was burning through in places, leaving big sticking-up pieces of metal in others, and having a lot of pitted, uneven-looking weld.

I also think I was struggling with finding a good position, and I noticed that it is really hard to move at a consistent speed, and hard to keep from slipping or moving my hands erratically. In particular, I noticed that there is a lot of popping when I first start the arc, and my tack welds are particularly pitted and ugly.

I tried to make sure the settings were correct on my welder - I am more or less following the table on the welder to set up the wire feed speed and power, and I tested out the settings on scrap metal. But when I tried to weld the 90" joints shown in the picture (lots of welding at the edge of the material, I couldn't get any consistent decent-looking welds. Any input is appreciated.

-Marc
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Artie F. Emm
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    Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:53 am

Welcome to the forum, Marc!

If I can suggest, take some time to watch the WeldingTipsandTricks videos on MIG welding. You can find the videos at WeldingTipsAndTricks.com, or youtube, or Welding-TV.com. There are videos that cover all the common welding processes, and in all of them, Jody (our host of this website) stresses getting comfortable. In all of the videos he takes an unpowered practice run, setting himself up to be comfortable (or at least, not totally uncomfortable) and plans out how he'll complete the weld.

The MIG welding series started just a couple weeks ago http://welding-tv.com/video-of-the-week/ and is up to part 3 as of this post. The videos explain the MIG process and how to set up your machine. For now, though, post up the settings you used on this weld- volts, wire speed, type of shielding gas, and shielding gas flow rate, and I'm sure we can get you going down the right road.
Dave
aka "RTFM"
Mike
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Welcome to the forum Marc.
M J Mauer Andover, Ohio

Linoln A/C 225
Everlast PA 200
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I would clean the metal to bright shiny metal. Remove all the mill scale. This is not entirely necessary but if you are going to learn, learn right. Check your gas flow. I would run around 15 to 20 cfh of flow, me personally. What brand machine is it? On my hobart I find myself on anything thinner than 1/8" going one setting lower than what the chart says and that helps from burning through. If I am welding 14 gauge, I set it for 16 gauge. I know it sounds bad but my machine runs hot so if I left it on the 14 gauge setting after 1" of weld it would poke a big hole through or I would have to travel insanely fast and not join correctly. Also don't be afraid to play with the wire feed speed. If it calls for a certain speed, that doesn't mean it is required, that is what they recommend. Try cleaning the metal, check your gas flow, and play with the setting for yourself. If you have any more questions or if that doesn't help, come on back. :)
It's always best to build your own, especially when it comes to hitches!!!
Matt
March993
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Sorry, I thought the description of the equipment would show up from my profile. I'm using an entry-level Northern Industrial Welders MIG 135 120V machine bought new about a month ago. I am using .030 wire and 75% Argon/25% CO2 gas.

I've played with the settings and have ended up with the power at about 4-5 (recommended is 5-6), wire feed speed about 5 (recommended is about 5-6, I think), and gas at about 18-19 cfpm.

Most of the welds I've tried are very short, like 1-1.5 inches (mostly 90 angles and mitered corners on tubing or angle iron). The longer ones tend to be better than the shorter ones where there are more starts and stops, but because I keep burning through the thinner 16-gauge tubing, I end up with lots of starting and stopping and trying to fill in holes. Even tack welds end up really pitted and nasty.
Artie F. Emm
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    Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:53 am

16 gauge will be tricky to learn on. Do you have anything thicker, that you can run longer beads on? Even if you clean the paint off a chunk of old bedframe you'll have an easier time learning on thicker material. Rather than welding a joint, just run some beads on the metal. You can run "stringer" beads (by moving the torch along, straight, without waggling the nozzle) or try moving the nozzle in "cursive Es" or a looping motion as you move the torch.
Dave
aka "RTFM"
ImLow78
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On that machine I would run the heat in the 4-5 range and wire speed at 5-6. Gas flow should be in the 22-24. You want to push that wire with a push and pause technique to fill the puddle. Your gun angle should be 45* to the work piece with a 5* push angle. I'm well versed in 16ga tubing. The thing with my settings on 16ga is you will have to really move fast but it will lay in like butter. Hope this helps some.

Shannon
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