[norasarc]

I'm getting ready to start on a dining table that's going to have a square tube steel frame and a thick wood top, looking something like this one:

http://www.crateandbarrel.com/teak-top- ... le/s186582

I'm thinking the top thickness and tube width will be 1 and 1/2 inches. The dimensions of the tabletop will be 72"x40". What gauge tubing do you guys think I should use? I want this thing to be sturdy but no heavier than it has to be, since it'll already weigh a ton. My welder and skills don't have a lot of finesse with thinner stuff, and tend to burn through it. I was kind of thinking maybe 11 gauge, based on rough estimating. I really don't have a good feel for gauges since my welding experience to this point has been with random hunks of junk. I'm also having trouble figuring out where to buy the stuff, since any place that sells it is open bankers hours and I work during the day. I guess I'll have to take a day off if nothing else. Anyone from northeast florida know a good place? I guess I'll need a chop saw or something for reasonably precise 45 degree cuts. I was thinking of getting one from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight, any thoughts? Thanks guys, I'll post pics of progress once it starts. At this point I'm still just gathering materials. Here's a picture at some of my previous ventures into metal and wood tables:

[Superiorwelding]

Norasarc,
Great lookin table first of all.
I would consider rectangle tube depending on your span. While I don't think 1.5" x1/8" would sag or flex a whole lot, especially when fastened to the wood, it wouldn't hurt to look into it. I believe 1/8" will be more than enough, unless a game of spoons gets violent. Another thing to consider is the expansion and contraction of the wood. I am by no means a expert at wood so I hope others here will chime in on that. For your 45* corners, if you dont want to invest in a chop saw you could just use a speed square and a angle grinder. You can get decent cuts with a little practice. Just a thought. Looks like a great project to me, can't wait to see pictures!
-Jonathan

[AnvilJack]

I have found the guys in metal yards and auto wreckers, etc, are very interested in "odd" little projects. Show them some pictures, like the one you posted, and you might be surprised how often they will pick out a box of bits and let you see some photos of what they have. At several places people even pick stuff out for me during their breaks. Before you know it you have enough material for five tables, and you haven't even met the guys yet.

Of course, it helps, if you then actually buy some of the stuff, meet them, send them a photo of the finished work.

Good luck.

[Bholcomb87]

You'll be good using 16 ga 1 1/2"x1 1/2" or 1 1/2"x2" or if you want you can use 1" x 1 1/2" 1/8" wall or 1"x1". 1/8" wall it just depends on the look you want. I use 16 ga tubing all the time on frames and I'm 240 lbs and I can stand on them without the flexing really. When you put on the wood make sure it's not wet in other words if you by new lumber let its dry out before attach it to the metal frame. If you use to common boards like 1" x 6"s or what ever size you need you will be ok no need to let them dry. If you by something like a 2x10" you'll need to let it dry out because it will shrink. It's a nice table good luck. I've built several tables like your making I'm also a contractor so if you need any guidance just ask.

[RichardH]

Expanding on the topic of wood vs. metal, um, expansion...

Wood swells and shrinks depending its moisture content, which initially depends on how green / dried it is when you build, but then adjusts based on humidity in the air which changes seasonally and by geography. It's not uncommon to move a wood piece of furniture from the coast to the desert and have it crack or develop loose joints. Vice versa. Or even between seasons.

When fastening wood to metal over a large area like a table you need to plan for the wood to move more than the metal. Mostly in the cross-grain direction than with the grain. (This is equally a problem when fastening wood with perpendicular grain, like using a cross-strip on the bottom of the tabletop for stiffness.)

For the wood/metal connection, make the mounting holes elongated in the metal part so the screw can slide when the wood expands. Perhaps use nylon or fiber washers to act as a cushion so you can tighten the screw firmly but still be able to move. If you do this along the edges, you could skip it along the table's centerline, which will keep the top centered on the frame.

And a random piece of woodworking advice... Paint the open end grain with "sanding sealer" before staining. This reduces absorption of the stain and makes the color more even.

And are you planning to use teak? That's a lot of exotic wood. The local exotics store doesn't even stock it, but he says 6/4 is about $40/board-foot - that table is 14 bd.ft. before allowing for scrap, which works out to $560. You might find it's cheaper to buy this table!

Cheers,
Richard

[norasarc]

Thanks for the input guys, that's a good thought about the oversized holes and nylon washers. I found a local place for wood: https://www.facebook.com/CountryJunkTimberProducts. I'm probably going to go with live oak, pecan, or pine, something already dry and with a good looking grain.

[mcoe]

I just built a 18"x 48" coffee table with a 2" thick rough cut oak top on it. I built the frame out of 1 1/2" square tubing with 1/8" wall and it is heavy duty but light weight.

[norasarc]

yeah I was thinking 1/8 inch or 11 gauge, I guess they're about the same. Also, can anyone give some input as to which shape would be better for attaching the legs and top: either 45 degree pieces joining to make the top with straight pieces butting up against it to make the legs vs. the legs coming all the way up to be flush with the top and no 45 degree cuts anywhere. Here's a hand drawing of what I'm talking about: This is the table without the wood top on.

[mcoe]

I have made many square frames here lately and I find it easiest to just cut the 45 miter on it to help square it up, it looks cleaner and I feel it is easier to weld the whole joint that way. Personal preference

[Otto Nobedder]

norasarc, here's a MASSIVE table built on 1/8 wall...

http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5089

By a master builder of unusual craft.

Steve S

[norasarc]

I was definitely admiring that enormous coffee table recently, that's right along the lines of the look that I'm going for.