Round baler roller bearing, totally gone, and need replaced.

AKweldshop · Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:14 am

The roller on our Case IH rbx561.
The end bearing is totally gone, and it got so hot it caught the bale on fire that was being made.
Luckily we saw it an spit the bale out....
The hay wasn't perfectly dry, so we put it out easily.
So,
Got the roller out, and need to get the inside race off.

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AKweldshop · Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:21 am

So,
Gonna run a bead right on the inside of the race.

My angle iron trough sure came in handy.

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AKweldshop · Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:33 am

So,
I started off using 95amps, Invertec 250, with 3/32 excaliburs.
A little to hot.
You don't want your puddle to drift, and run in to the milled stop.
And,
As this is only about 1/8" thick, you sure don't want to burn through.
You want to put in a lot of heat, to get it to contract as much as possible.
So,
I did one pass around it, and it didn't free up.
So I turned it down to 80amps, and went really slow.
Than i stood it on end, and sprayed a bunch of PB power blaster so it flowed in the the joint.

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AKweldshop · Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:37 am

Turning it by hand.
Go nice and slow.

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AKweldshop · Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:41 am

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AKweldshop · Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:44 am

Now,
The bearing on the other end is just about gone too.

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AKweldshop · Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:50 am

There's the stop that the bearing presses up against.

Next is to beat the whachamacallit out of the other end.

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AKweldshop · Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:55 am

As you can see,
These bearings have a 1 1/8 square inside race.
Commonly found on field disks.

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AKweldshop · Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:57 am

So,
We have to beat the bearing off this end, but Its quite seized.

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If it won't move, just get a bigger hammer, right?

We'll get the bearings ordered and show you all how it goes back together....

~John

Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:36 pm

John, that's the same method I use to change bearings in heavy trailer axles. I'll usually run a hot-as-hades mig bead around the entire race, and when it cools, gently tap it out with a hammer and drift. If the boss isn't looking, I'll TIG-wash the races at high amps, and they'll sometimes fall out when they cool.

Installing the new ones is the fun part... I pre-heat the aluminum hubs to about 350, and chill the new races in liquid nitrogen. Then, with my medium gloves on, center the race, and drop it in. It makes a satisfying "tink" sound when it falls to the bottom, and in less than ten seconds it's immobilized.

The point of this method is to minimize damage to the aluminum hubs from driving races in and out...

I'll be interested to see the reassembly in your repair.

Steve S

Braehill · Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:51 pm

John,
That would have been a great job for those low penetrating 6013 rods that you keep saving for a special project.

I actually did use 6013 to remove 12" post bearing races from cement block cranes when I worked for my uncle. They were overhead and once you started welding you didn't stop until they slid down your arm, thank goodness for leather welding jackets. You had to get contorted into some torturous position above the rear differential and reach up to arms length and hope your pants didn't catch fire while you're welding. I don't miss those at all.

Len

GreinTime · Mon Jul 21, 2014 1:58 pm

They refuse to let us change races in Aluminum hubs at work

Mainly because TA(in general, not just mine) employs a large number of idiots, who beat races out of aluminum hubs* with a cold chisel and a sledge hammer.... I Also baffled them all by showing them how easy it is to get races out not* only with a TIG welder, but also the appropriate brass punch and common sense. Still, it's against company policy at the end of the day and they just said "That's nice, never do that on a truck here!"
Edit: I realized how bad some of my spelling and grammar were on some of those lol

Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:28 pm

GreinTime wrote:They refuse to let us change races in Aluminum hubs at work Mainly because TA(in general, not just mine) employs a large number of idiots, who beat races out of aluminum hubs* with a cold chisel and a sledge hammer.... I Also baffled them all by showing them how easy it is to get races out not* only with a TIG welder, but also the appropriate brass punch and common sense. Still, it's against company policy at the end of the day and they just said "That's nice, never do that on a truck here!"
Edit: I realized how bad some of my spelling and grammar were on some of those lol

Hey, as long as that's "policy", at least one of our guys has a job... We do the full B-PM for every retest and rehab.

Steve S

AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 2:04 pm

Ok,
We got a 10' piece of 2" tubing, and welded the old race from the other side to it, and will use it as a battering ram.
We stuck my chipping hammer in the end, it has a 1/2" pipe handle, because we wan't to keep the battering ram in the center, as we're just trying to just take the bearing out, not the "holder"....

~John

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AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 2:07 pm

And its out.
We got the bearings in the mail, and hopefully will get the "good" bearings back in!!

~John

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Artie F. Emm · Wed Jul 30, 2014 3:19 pm

This has been an interesting post! Just for curiosity, how long does this kind of repair take, not counting the wait for parts to arrive?

AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:33 pm

Artie F. Emm wrote:This has been an interesting post! Just for curiosity, how long does this kind of repair take, not counting the wait for parts to arrive?

Thats funny....

We're farmers, and we take forever...

It doesn't take that long really.
Shipping parts takes a week to AK.
All depends on how well you know bearings etc.

If you have all the tools there, it goes quick.
Luckily, we have tons of experience replacing bearing, cause farmers don't grease nothing....

BTW,
The bearings are in, and ready to go back into the baler.

I actually had to do some welding on the baler, as one of the belts had almost cut thru the support arm.

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AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:38 pm

Using my huge press too.

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AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:43 pm

So,
Got the one bearing pressed in its housing, and set that aside.
Now we tapped the bearing into the housing that was still in the roller.

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AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:49 pm

Tapped the housing into the other end, AND IT WAS WAY TO LOOSE.
Tapped it back out and put loctite on the surfaces.

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AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:55 pm

So,
Both bearings are in.
Up against there own stops.

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Now,
Here's the welding I did in the baler....

Sorta like 6g

AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:02 pm

As you can see, the belts have almost cut halfway thru that 1/2" (12.7mm) steel, that its the brackets for the roller we're working on.
The roller goes right in that slot.

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AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:04 pm

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AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:07 pm

Tools of the trade.
As you can see, its a tight space to get a line of sight, and decent rod angle.
Very uncomfortable to get in there.

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AKweldshop · Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:11 pm

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