I have an excavator bucket that needs some build up on the cutting edge. It is worn down about 1/2" in the centre. In other words, the cutting edge is concave.
I am thinking that this would probably be best done using stick rather than mig. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to do this? Should I use some sort of backing or just try to weld along the edge? What type of rod should be used? Should it be finished off with some hard surfacing?
Thanks.
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450DS,
Just to add to what John said, I would then go over it with a hard surface rod to cut down on future wear. I have limited experience with McKay 118 and 155 but in this case I would probably go with 155. Run stringers over the first several inches inside and out. These are stick rods and I have no firsthand experience with Mig for this kind of work, but somebody here surely does.
Have you considered grouser stock? In small sizes I use it to restore cutting edges. It is high manganese, backward steel. It is harder when hot and cools slowly, and work hardens. I use a product called 80TAC+ from _________. I'll look it up if you're interested. On loader buckets I weld it in place, then use a torch free hand to sharpen it to a plane iron shape. They stand a great deal of abuse!
My friend does the mechanic work for a family excavation business. He does a few buckets a year this way. Believe it or not he uses a Lincoln buzz box AC machine! They have three nice engine welders, he reserves them for field work?
John & Len, my first thought was to build it up with something like 7018 and see how that goes. I have never used hard surface rod before. How hard is it to grind and shape?
Bill, if you were to replace the cutting edge, would you cut a piece out of the bucket to square it up or just try to fit a piece in to the worn area?
This bucket won't see a lot of heavy use. It's just for a mini excavator that I use on our farm.
I've never seen a need to grind any hard facing since it going to wear down anyway. You can shape the edge progressively running less and less beads as you get to the cutting edge, if that makes sense.
John & Len, my first thought was to build it up with something like 7018 and see how that goes. I have never used hard surface rod before. How hard is it to grind and shape?
Bill, if you were to replace the cutting edge, would you cut a piece out of the bucket to square it up or just try to fit a piece in to the worn area?
This bucket won't see a lot of heavy use. It's just for a mini excavator that I use on our farm.
Build it up to the right shape with a cheap rod....grind it down to size.
Then criss-cross some hard surface beads...I personally wouldn't use hard facing rod.
Its $40-$50 a pound.
Build it up to size with 6013, grind it to shape, then criss-cross with some 3/32" 7018. Run them cold, to pile up a stringer...
Just my opinion.
~John
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
I would clamp or tack the actual piece of grouser stock about where you are holding the straight edge in the picture. Maybe 1/2" higher. Then run a cutting torch along it to straighten the edge. Small grouser stock comes with a blunt cutting edge, tapers to wider, like a dull knife. At the knife back it is beveled from both sides to allow room for filler. Intentionally set a root of 1/8". Position it flat with the bottom of the bucket and the grouser on the floor. Without pre heat it will weld fine, but break near the middle. Don't be discouraged, burn it to prep a weld, and fill it. 7018 or 6010 will be ductile enough to repair it. The high manganese steel will never wear out. What's your soil? Might you want tooth shanks?
Hard surface is OK but a mini may not see the hard usage to warrant the cost. I use a high manganese product, not quite as hard as some, but bullet proof in its lack of brittleness, still much harder than all rock but diamond.
Bill Beauregard wrote:I would clamp or tack the actual piece of grouser stock about where you are holding the straight edge in the picture. Maybe 1/2" higher. Then run a cutting torch along it to straighten the edge. Small grouser stock comes with a blunt cutting edge, tapers to wider, like a dull knife. At the knife back it is beveled from both sides to allow room for filler. Intentionally set a root of 1/8". Position it flat with the bottom of the bucket and the grouser on the floor. Without pre heat it will weld fine, but break near the middle. Don't be discouraged, burn it to prep a weld, and fill it. 7018 or 6010 will be ductile enough to repair it. The high manganese steel will never wear out. What's your soil? Might you want tooth shanks?
I also have a 24" digging bucket with teeth. The soil here is just dirt and a bit if clay. You could dig to China and not find a rock. The bucket in the picture is a 48" clean up bucket. I was going to use it to grade my driveway which is just gravel. Do you think a simple build up would stand up for awhile?
I also have a 24" digging bucket with teeth. The soil here is just dirt and a bit if clay. You could dig to China and not find a rock. The bucket in the picture is a 48" clean up bucket. I was going to use it to grade my driveway which is just gravel. Do you think a simple build up would stand up for awhile?
It will last a long time.....
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
weldin mike 27 wrote:Let it be known, we have it in writing: AK actually recommended 6013s to someone. Personally I think his account has been hacked by some hobbyist. Lol
Hey!!!
If you notice it will be used in a non critical application.
I actually have a 50lb box of 3/16" 6013....
Only to be used for wear down metal.....its cheap, and easy to grind.
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
By the time you've run multiple beads, distorted your bucket and ground it to shape, you would have welded on a new edge and worn it out again. On a mini-ex bucket or lightweight bucket, it's hardly worth hard facing as it will ruin the profile of the cutting edge. One trick I've used is to cut sections out of old loader bucket cutting edges and weld them on. If you know someone who runs equipment, it may be worth an ask.
weldin mike 27 wrote:Let it be known, we have it in writing: AK actually recommended 6013s to someone. Personally I think his account has been hacked by some hobbyist. Lol
Maybe we can pin this post so it will stay at the top for all time!!
-Jonathan
weldin mike 27 wrote:Let it be known, we have it in writing: AK actually recommended 6013s to someone. Personally I think his account has been hacked by some hobbyist. Lol
Maybe we can pin this post so it will stay at the top for all time!!
-Jonathan
Oh hardy har har.....
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Don't worry mate, at least your argument has a little merit. Unlike a surprisingly large amount of QUALIFIED tradesmen over here who say MIG welding is no good for anything and the people who use it are somehow "unskilled"
If I had a Jaguar XKE roadster, or a Plymouth Road Runner with 426 Hemi, I'd want a stick. Driving a 5 ton van in city traffic it's easier with an automatic. A close parallel can be drawn with MIG vs stick. both get the job done most of the time. It's only occasionally one won't. There aren't many who can effectively weld auto body with stick. 50 feet up on a piece of machinery I prefer stick. You want both with skills to use them.
Bill Beauregard wrote:If I had a Jaguar XKE roadster, or a Plymouth Road Runner with 426 Hemi, I'd want a stick. Driving a 5 ton van in city traffic it's easier with an automatic. A close parallel can be drawn with MIG vs stick. both get the job done most of the time. It's only occasionally one won't. There aren't many who can effectively weld auto body with stick. 50 feet up on a piece of machinery I prefer stick. You want both with skills to use them.
50 ft up, not me 5 ft is too high
Hats off to those who work in high places
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Miller 250 syncrowave
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and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
