[79jasper]

Pretty cool. Was watching some videos on the tube of the wood-mizer. Thing is sweet.
Not too horrible on price, but the DIY route would be better for personal use.
Imo, the wood-mizer is better for selling wood for profit.

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[WerkSpace]

This Canadian company is pretty serious about making bandsaw wheels.
http://www.premierbandwheel.com/

[WerkSpace]

I've been thinking over the whole hydraulic drive idea and might go with gears instead.
Apparently, there's a considerable horsepower loss when using hydraulics.

My latest thoughts are to use a 4-stroke motorcycle engine
and direct couple it to the drive wheel with a love-joy coupler.

Variable speed is accomplished thru gearbox selection and throttle position.

I could rig up the clutch, so that when I press it in all the way, it starts the ignition system. For stopping, I would use a kill switch.

[79jasper]

I get using a smaller engine to save space and weight, but why not a smaller diesel? A 4bt Cummins may be a bit big, but there's other options.

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[WerkSpace]

I have a couple of 16hp air-cooled Ruggerini-Deutz diesel engines in the garage.
The downside is that I don't have electric start for them.

I also have several John Deere variators that I could use for speed control and de-coupling the engine from the saw blade.

However, I'm trying to stay away from drive belts and go direct drive. It would make the design much simpler.

I get using a smaller engine to save space and weight, but why not a smaller diesel? A 4bt Cummins may be a bit big, but there's other options. Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

[WerkSpace]

This project is going to start with the band wheels.
For wheels of any decent size, they are expensive.
http://store.cookssaw.com/sawmill-parts/band-wheels/

The debate over steel wheels and tired wheels is long and confusing.
Each company seems to have their own opinions and arguments.
I'd like to go with affordable steel wheels. Do they exist?

I started looking around for cast iron wheels of any sort.
I've decided to buy these 30" cast iron wheels and re-purpose them.
This fellow is asking $250, so I will go and have a look at them.

[WerkSpace]

Another engine option would be the Suzuki G10 that is used in the Geo Metro and similar small cars. Its a light weight, 3 cylinder, 1 liter, 68hp gas engine with a very flat power curve. I have two naturally aspirated engines and trannies, and one intercooled, turbo version that puts out 82hp.

The 82hp turbo version will end up in a hovercraft project. http://amphibiousmarine.com/explorer-22-overview/

I didn't have any immediate plans for the other engines but I did buy Raven Redrives documents on converting these for aircraft use. http://www.raven-rotor.com/ Here's a 4 cyl version in action. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHAlyyE76F4

I get using a smaller engine to save space and weight, but why not a smaller diesel? A 4bt Cummins may be a bit big, but there's other options. Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

[79jasper]

That's cool. Those 3 cylinder are efficient and don't use much gas.
You could make your own wheels with some big diameter pipe.

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[WerkSpace]

I thought of that, but if I can buy the wheels for cheap, then why not?
(Aligning and balancing could be a tricky thing. Metal warps so easily.)

The Suzuki G10 engine is very light.
I drove both the Geo Metro and VW Rabbit/Golf/Jetta diesel vehicles for several years.
They get very similar fuel mileage except that the diesel engine is much heavier.
I have seven VW 1.6 naturally aspirated diesel engines and trannies in my garage.

I seem to collect things. I've got a 13B Wankel, VFR 750 bike engines, etc.
There's even a 80hp jet turbine engine from an air-start cart, but it's very noisy.

That's cool. Those 3 cylinder are efficient and don't use much gas.
You could make your own wheels with some big diameter pipe. Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

[79jasper]

Lol. Options options.
And yeah, if the wheels can be bought cheaper than your time and money to build them, by all means.

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[noddybrian]

Just a thought on the wheels - where I live used to be 3 coal mines - there was any amount of flanged wheels around in various diameters from the narrow gauge railroad they use - if you have access to mining scrap maybe you could re-purpose a couple even if you have to get them skimmed in a lathe to suit - they are cast iron / steel so are quite heavy but this is often an advantage with bandsaws as it helps damp vibration giving better band life & cut quality.

[Bill Beauregard]

Hay balers had large cast iron milled flywheels. From the right source they wouldn't be too expensive.

[WerkSpace]

I've been trying to price out the blades.
http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/woodmas ... lades.aspx

If my band wheels are 30" as noted by the seller,
then I calculated that I'll need about 18 feet of blade.

The plans say that the Lenox WoodMaster B (bi-metallic) blades work best.
(1.25" width X .042" thickness with 7/8" tooth spacing seem to work best.)

I'm also looking into welding these blades myself.
The plans came with a sharpening jig section.

[Bill Beauregard]

As pierce work with a bandsaw involves welding, my DO ALL band saw includes a blade welder. Drill a hole, cut the blade, grind on the grinder, and clamp in the welder. I haven't used it, I think it's a resistance welder. I think it is a quick process.

[Bill Beauregard]

I'm told it can be brazed. Grind the ends on a bevel, and braze with acetylene.

[WerkSpace]

I found a great deal on eBay for nine brand new
LENOX 18' 8" X 1-1/2 .050 2/3 VP VR QGT HMRC WELDED BANDSAW BLADE SAW 224"BAND at $29.99 each.

I read on the Lenox website that metal blades can be used on wood, so at this price, I'm willing to give it a try. http://www.lenoxtools.com/Guides/LENOX% ... Sawing.pdf

[Bill Beauregard]

I believe you've got too many teeth. A rip tooth is filed perpendicular to the blade, chain saw rip chain is made by turning some of the teeth into non cutting rakers.

[WerkSpace]

I wonder if it's possible to modify these blades to what I need? The proper wood blades are $150 each. I bought these blades at $30 each. They're designed to cut mold steel, tool steel, stainless, titanium and nickel based alloys. This sounds like one tough blade? If I custom sharpen them, I should be able to modify the gullet and teeth arrangement to whatever works better on wood. http://www.lenoxtools.eu/Pages/Product. ... ductId=QGT

I believe you've got too many teeth. A rip tooth is filed perpendicular to the blade, chain saw rip chain is made by turning some of the teeth into non cutting rakers.

[Bill Beauregard]

Wood Mizer sells a blade sharpener, or you might make a grinder yourself. I think you want to remove every third tooth. I would say every other tooth, but that would, I expect leave you with all the teeth set to one side. You might try removing two in a row. These applications remove wood much faster than metal. You need to slow the cut, and remove waste.

[WerkSpace]

Thanks for that information, I've been spending a lot of time learning about band blades. The one thing that astonishes me, is that nobody offers a method of monitoring the blade temperature. If the blade is getting dull, or simply not the right blade for a specific type of wood, the end result is that the blade overheats and gets damaged. I'm thinking that a non-contact temperature monitoring system would be very easy to install and very useful.

Wood Mizer sells a blade sharpener, or you might make a grinder yourself. I think you want to remove every third tooth. I would say every other tooth, but that would, I expect leave you with all the teeth set to one side. You might try removing two in a row. These applications remove wood much faster than metal. You need to slow the cut, and remove waste.

[Bill Beauregard]

I have a lazer guided infra red temperature gauge, or you can lubricate with Water mixed with Dawn Dish-washing Liquid, and watch for steam.

[79jasper]

A video I watched on the wood mizer, he was using washer fluid to keep from freezing, and plain water when it was warmer.
Also the same videos, the machine had a gauge showing blade tension. Which is a good indicator of blade temp.

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[WerkSpace]

One of the bandsaw blade manufacturers has tips on blade maintenance and they strongly recommend not using water for cooling as it promotes corrosion of the blades.

They also say to de-tension the blades when they are not in use. I never thought of that one before, as every small shop bandsaw that I've ever worked on, has always left the blade tensioned and ready for action at a moments notice.

[Bill Beauregard]

One of the bandsaw blade manufacturers has tips on blade maintenance and they strongly recommend not using water for cooling as it promotes corrosion of the blades.

They also say to de-tension the blades when they are not in use. I never thought of that one before, as every small shop bandsaw that I've ever worked on, has always left the blade tensioned and ready for action at a moments notice.

Have you sawed green wood. It don't get wetter than that!

[RichardH]

I believe you've got too many teeth. A rip tooth is filed perpendicular to the blade, chain saw rip chain is made by turning some of the teeth into non cutting rakers.

Rip blades tend to have larger teeth spaced further apart to remove more material faster, since ripping is a much easier operation than cross-cut. I don't doubt these blades will cut wood, but I think it'll be slow going compared to what it could be.

And for cooling, the fellow on the Cooks video mentioned they drip diesel on the blade (I suspect it keeps it from getting gooey too). But I would question cutting wood with an oily blade. I suppose the amount that'll get left on the wood would be removed during planing after drying; otherwise it'd affect absorption of finishes (especially stains).

Cheers,
Richard