rahtreelimbs
- rahtreelimbs
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Heavy Hitter
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Joined:Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:39 pm
I am building a cart for 2 MIG welders.......anyone have any ieas or photos they could post ???
- winky
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Active Member
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Joined:Wed May 30, 2012 10:07 am
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Location:Oregon
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Have no ideas ... never tried it ... but it sounds like fun ... U can do it! GO FOR IT!!!
... going as fast as I can with one eye closed.
Everlast Powertig 200DX
Miller Thunderbolt 225
Lincoln 180c Mig
Hobart Handler 125
Everlast Powertig 200DX
Miller Thunderbolt 225
Lincoln 180c Mig
Hobart Handler 125
Actually, I drew up a nice project for a mig cart - made of wood! I've been a woodworker for about 41 years and got tired of paying alot of money for simple welding I neede done. So I took welding at a community college and got my cert. I said "Why not"? There is no danger of sparks ingniting this, for the cart is set back far enough away. It also allows me to add drawers on the bottom for tools, wire, and whatever. When I suggested the idea to the woodworking forum, they freaked! "You can't do that! Mig carts are supposed to be metal". In any case, I already bought the wood and have the plans. If you interested, I'll post it. By the way, the picture of that red one is really nice. 
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Nothing all all wrong with a wooden cart.
Hardwoods are harder to ignite, and look better stained and/or clear-coated, and there are a number of readily available fire-retardant penetrants and paints available for added security.
I'd avoid unfinished softwoods, though. Spatter can fly a long way and stay above the kindling point for a surprisingly long time.
Anyone who takes a serious look around their shop will be surprised by the number of flammable things within range of weld spatter, cutting spray, and grinding sparks.
OSHA regulations for construction require the designated firewatch to remain on duty for 30 minutes after all hot work is completed. It's a good idea, no matter how "fireproof" your shop seems to be, to spend some cleanup and relax time there after you've finished. Of course there should be an ABC fire extingusher present, and if you weld magnesium or other metals capable of self-sustaining cumbustion, you'll need the appropriate extinguisher (Type E, if I recall), as water and ABC's might as well be gasoline for a metal fire.
My 4 cents (started as two, but my mind wandered
).
Steve
Hardwoods are harder to ignite, and look better stained and/or clear-coated, and there are a number of readily available fire-retardant penetrants and paints available for added security.
I'd avoid unfinished softwoods, though. Spatter can fly a long way and stay above the kindling point for a surprisingly long time.
Anyone who takes a serious look around their shop will be surprised by the number of flammable things within range of weld spatter, cutting spray, and grinding sparks.
OSHA regulations for construction require the designated firewatch to remain on duty for 30 minutes after all hot work is completed. It's a good idea, no matter how "fireproof" your shop seems to be, to spend some cleanup and relax time there after you've finished. Of course there should be an ABC fire extingusher present, and if you weld magnesium or other metals capable of self-sustaining cumbustion, you'll need the appropriate extinguisher (Type E, if I recall), as water and ABC's might as well be gasoline for a metal fire.
My 4 cents (started as two, but my mind wandered
).Steve
delraydella
- delraydella
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Mon Apr 25, 2011 7:35 pm
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Location:Detroit, MI
I wanted to add my 2 cents on using flame retardant penetrants on wood for welding because I use them quite a bit and have found one that works exceptionally well. I've always plywood or particle board sheets for welding tables for many reasons. They are easy to setup and take down and they can be configured in an infinite number of ways to meet any project. You can screw in locator blocks wherever you need them and you can cut holes for hard to reach places to weld. They are also lighter and cheaper than steel tops, you can set them up anywhere with some sawhorses.......blah,blah,blah...
But they are flamable, not in a sense that they will easily ignite into a roaring inferno, but a piece of slag can smoulder for a while on them. I use a product called Fiber-Shield that I'll spray right on the table with a Hudson Sprayer (any garden sprayer will work). The retardent is available from ......http://www.fiber-shield.com/
We also use this product to flame retard stage curtains. We've even used it to flame retard Metallicas onstage quick change booths for their concerts. If you've ever seen a Metallica show, there are plenty of explosions! If they trust the stuff...
But they are flamable, not in a sense that they will easily ignite into a roaring inferno, but a piece of slag can smoulder for a while on them. I use a product called Fiber-Shield that I'll spray right on the table with a Hudson Sprayer (any garden sprayer will work). The retardent is available from ......http://www.fiber-shield.com/
We also use this product to flame retard stage curtains. We've even used it to flame retard Metallicas onstage quick change booths for their concerts. If you've ever seen a Metallica show, there are plenty of explosions! If they trust the stuff...
Welding☞Syncrowave 250,Millermatic 252,30a Spoolgun Cutting☞12" Hi-speed Cutoff Saw, 9x 12 Horizontal Bandsaw Milling☞Gorton 8d Vertical Mill Turning☞Monarch EE Precision Lathe Grinding ☞Brown & Sharpe #5 Surface Grinder
delraydella
- delraydella
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Mon Apr 25, 2011 7:35 pm
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Location:Detroit, MI
MDF works great for welding tables. It's nice and flat and it absorbs the flame retardant pretty easily. I've used MDO before too,which is very nice for layouts,but it's a little more expensive, I believe.
Welding☞Syncrowave 250,Millermatic 252,30a Spoolgun Cutting☞12" Hi-speed Cutoff Saw, 9x 12 Horizontal Bandsaw Milling☞Gorton 8d Vertical Mill Turning☞Monarch EE Precision Lathe Grinding ☞Brown & Sharpe #5 Surface Grinder
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Steve,
That makes sense! MDO should make for a nice, crisp pencil line that stays put much better than soapstone on a metal table. (Though there's a trick for that-- Hairspray!) I like the idea of being able to easily put a hole wherever you need it.
I'll bet the Habitat for Humanity Re-Store has it for way cheap, too!
Steve
That makes sense! MDO should make for a nice, crisp pencil line that stays put much better than soapstone on a metal table. (Though there's a trick for that-- Hairspray!) I like the idea of being able to easily put a hole wherever you need it.
I'll bet the Habitat for Humanity Re-Store has it for way cheap, too!
Steve
delraydella
- delraydella
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Mon Apr 25, 2011 7:35 pm
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Location:Detroit, MI
There's even a Smooth Primed MDO that we used to use that worked really well for layouts, but we had to stopped buying it. One of our guys got a really bad rash after pushing it through the table saw. He was allergic to whatever was in the primer when it came out as dust from cutting. I've never seen anything like that before with any type of sheetgood I've ever used, not even the prefinished sheets that are sprayed with laquer.
Welding☞Syncrowave 250,Millermatic 252,30a Spoolgun Cutting☞12" Hi-speed Cutoff Saw, 9x 12 Horizontal Bandsaw Milling☞Gorton 8d Vertical Mill Turning☞Monarch EE Precision Lathe Grinding ☞Brown & Sharpe #5 Surface Grinder
