[LS Customs]

Since I have to wait on a filter and 2 fittings to finish my tig cooler project... I decided to jump back on this one and get it wired up...

I have some heavy duty extension cord and decided to use it to wire the project up... I had one male end of a cord left over from another project and decide to use that end, along with the female end of the cord still intact... to create a quick disconnect for the motor... since i made the side of the enclosure that the controller mounts to remove-able, I wanted to be able to unplug the motor, etc, as needed... I dont like the wing nut or twist type of electrical connectors, so I use wago connectors i have laying around... i can also very easily add wiring for lighting and additional electrical outlet on the box, , etc. if i want to...

[LS Customs]

i added the optional forward-brake-reverse switch and wired it up per the instructions...

[LS Customs]

I also installed the correct fuse and resister, per the specs on the motor...

[LS Customs]

i drilled a hole on the back of the controllers box, to route the plug for the motor through it, so you would not see this wiring, with the side of the enclosure installed...


wired this up along with the wiring for the main power...

[LS Customs]

i want to be able to start and stop the positioner, very easily... I did not want to wire up a pedal, etc, as it would be easier for me to do this with a free hand, or off the torch, if i am holding the torch instead of using the mount for it... i dont use the torch mounted switch that came with the welder, so i tested it to verify that it is the typical on off momentary switch (which it is)..

I needed to find a wire that i could wire the switch in between, somewhere after the potentiometer ... i had played with potentiometers in the past and typically the middle wire is the output (for lack of a better way to try to explain what was in my head), so i figured i would wire the switch into this wire... I actually called tech support to verify that it would work how i wanted it to... and the tech support employee confirmed it... and told me to use the wire connected to "P2" on the circuit board, which is an orange wire... i located the wire and followed it back to the pot.. it is the one in the middle...





i carefully unplugged the wire from the board side of the wire, as the other side is soldered onto the pot...

[LS Customs]

i cut the wire and wired the tig torch switch in between... you now have to press the button and hold it, to start turning the positioner and when you let it go.. it will shut off... you can adjust or add a delay to the start and stopping time, for when you press and let the switch go... and also adjust how long it takes to reach your set speed, when you press the switch, and also how long it takes to slow and stop after letting the switch go...

blue and black wire from the switch


one side to the pot


one side to the other end on the board

[LS Customs]

tucked everything in and out the way... i used hot glue to help protect/secure wiring coming in and out the box..

[LS Customs]

box is wired up
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wired the motor up, using the other end of the cord i cut for the controller

[LS Customs]

with the wiring completed... i looked for some small bolts to mount the controller to the positioner.. i found some small 5mm bolts, that were perfect, as i had rivnuts that came with a tool i purchased, that were for the thread size...



drilled the 1/4" holes, i initially programmed into the panel, out to approx. 7mm and installed the rivet nuts/nutserts/whatever,,, mounted the panel back on the positioner and plugged in the motor

[LS Customs]

bolted the controller on and reinstalled the cover...





I flipped the main power on the controller and it lit up...

[LS Customs]

here is a vid of the switch and motor working... just waiting on my friend to machine my other copper adapter... i should have that in a couple of days.. he had trouble trying to thread it, so had to change tooling... i also made some refinements to the cad program... one of the changes was to add short slots to the mounting holes for the motor so that the tension on the belt or chain can easily be adjusted... though the tensioner i am going to make for it, is very simple to do... just something i thought about after (as far as how easy it was for me to change that in the cad)

peje3ou2J4k

[motox]

i agree with your cancer message!
craig

[LS Customs]

i agree with your cancer message!
craig

thank you...

[LS Customs]

been honestly waiting on one little part and been waiting for a while... time to get this together with what i have and try it out...

for the shaft, since it is threaded... dont want to screw the set screws into the thread, doenst need much to hold... so tacked half of a spit collar to the gear so that it can be tightened against the threads...

[LS Customs]

the other one on the shaft uses a key and set screws.. i had changed the program on this plate to have curved slots on the motor mounting bolts, so that the chain can be tensioned, but cut the wrong program (so this plate doesnt have the slots)... not gonna re cut it, so put the chain on... it ore than likely will not slip off etc... but to complete it, i will add a simple tensioning system... or put the style that slips between the chain.. the gearing is 1:1.. the shaft can be moved out or in.. will set it right, once i add my copper nut/adapter on the other side... needed more thread on the other side, to mock it all up, for now

[LS Customs]

just two large nuts, with flanges and two nuts to lock them in place... in the middle

[LS Customs]

made up a ground cable, real quick...

[LS Customs]

the 2 gauge is very stiff and will lock the ground from swiveling, but i did program the hole on the ground lug, where it could be locked down using the bolts on the bearing cassettes... but it wont be necessary and i need this ground lug to have constant pressure from the spring up against the chuck


have a couple of these laying around, from and for misc race car projects, couldnt find one of the ones with the black boot, but i will change the boot, when it goes together for the final time

[LS Customs]

the split collar is on their temporarily.. need to add the other copper piece and one more nut on the side where the collar is now..

[LS Customs]

plugged the controller/motor back in... put controller panel back on and ready to test...


i didnt have a chuck key, but the key slot, looked like a familiar size.. fits perfect

[LS Customs]

i was anxious to try it out... have a couple of little custom rotors i made... wanted to weld both sides on them.. on this first side, i just ran the mig gun real quick... and didnt have the setting all the way right... ran back over them with the tig... havent played with settings, etc.. just set it real quick and got to it... was mainly concerned with the ground and how well it will weld...


looks a little weird as this was mig'd which look nice, just a solid bead... then i went back over it with the tig gun to see about setting it for the other side... with no xtra filler

[LS Customs]

flipped it around and this time used appropriate filler and tig... tried out a hand wire feeder (also called the tig finger)... actually works really good, took a few seconds to get used to it... and again, havent at all played with the settings, just got to it... so this is the first few welds on the machine... im loving it...

set the speed of the rotation using a piece of tape... i put 1/8" lines on it and set it to move about an 1/8" a sec (as ive seen in one of Jody's videos)... then set the torch to pulse about the same, 1pps... if i had the welder all the way dialed in... would have come out amazing... looking forward to playing with this and getting it dialed in... but the test went well... making a video to show how it all works and how nicely the ground stays put, etc...

[LS Customs]

used the 17 that came with the welder to test the positioner out... cant wait to use the 20 i have.. its ready to go, just need to button up the water cooler... waiting on temp gauges on that... should all be set up beg of next week

[motox]

LS
any distortion in the rotors?
craig

[LS Customs]

LS
any distortion in the rotors?
craig

none noticed and these are 3/16" thick... can be a thin as 1/8" thick for the application... and as much as 3/16... so i made them as thick as possible, in case i had to have them turned on a lathe, or in case i get brave enough to buy a mini lathe... which i may try it... this one came out nice enough for me to use on my project... but was more for practice, going to weld up one more this style and two another style, that a friend asked me to design for him to match a vintage wheel...