Welding Tips and Tricks

So here is the preliminary build of my rotator, it works as is but it's still not finished. The wood base is temporary and I want to fab a frame that'll allow me to position this from horizontal to vertical.

Spent quite a bit of time looking for components, the best find was the Dayton 90v DC motor along with speed controller, forward/reverse and foot control, all came as a package, used on eBay.

I know Jeff and maybe a few others are in the process so I thought I'd start a thread.

I like the ground cable on the spring.

Beautiful!

And that's exactly how I'd have done the ground. 10,000 contact points and not grounding through the bearings. I would "lubricate" the ground contact point with No-Ox-Ide A or similar to prevent corrosion/tarnishing from interfering with contact down the road.

Nice build!

Steve S

Nice Richard! I am having a few engineering problems with the way I want mine built but I think I have it figured out. The most important thing to me is I want the whole thing built out of junk parts I have accumulated (read garbage picked) and shade tree engineering. Awesome idea for the ground strap on the spring!

richard
i have an old 4 jaw chuck. maybe ill build one too.
I'm sure i need another project..lol
mind if a hack a few of your ideas?
nice build!
craig

Thanks everyone, that motor has great low end torque, I've used name brand units that would falter at low speed but this thing is very consistent.

Craig go for it, I modeled this after a unit I saw on YT.

Hey Richard. This is the problem I am having so I am going to ask you this question...You said your wood base was temporary. When you fab one, which I assume will be metal, how will you isolate welding current from motor current? Right now with the wooden base and the belt, the 2 circuits are isolated but if you use metal for a base, you will no longer be isolated because of the bearings and metal fasteners right? I am going through hell trying to figure out how to protect my motor from welding current. If I stare at it long enough, I'll figure it out but I thought I might pick your brain here

jeff
you have a lath, fab up some nylon bungs to separate metal from bolts.
craig

motox wrote:jeff
you have a lath, fab up some nylon bungs to separate metal from bolts.
craig

I was thinking about some Delrin sleeves and thrust washers..would Delrin be a good choice? I know it's very machinable.

exnailpounder wrote:

motox wrote:jeff
you have a lath, fab up some nylon bungs to separate metal from bolts.
craig

I was thinking about some Delrin sleeves and thrust washers..would Delrin be a good choice? I know it's very machinable.

Sounds like you may already have an answer, I haven't gotten that far.

Question, may be stupid, even with a metal frame if the ground strap remains on the shaft, wouldn't the current take the most direct path (of least resistance)?

Die electric flange kits for bolting up flanges use a plastic sleeve that looks like a big straw ( about the same material and thickness) to go around the bolts. And then fiber washers that look like circuit board material. About 1/8 thick.

Poland308 wrote:Die electric flange kits for bolting up flanges use a plastic sleeve that looks like a big straw ( about the same material and thickness) to go around the bolts. And then fiber washers that look like circuit board material. About 1/8 thick.

That would certainly save some time. I'm gonna check McMaster-Carr this morning.

I am using something like these with my build...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Glastic-2015- ... Swol5Y3Dne

I Used a set of rubber mounts like that for a pedestal grinder that I built it makes it kind of hard to tension the belt because it begins to sideload the rubber grommets.

LtBadd wrote:

exnailpounder wrote:

motox wrote:jeff
you have a lath, fab up some nylon bungs to separate metal from bolts.
craig

I was thinking about some Delrin sleeves and thrust washers..would Delrin be a good choice? I know it's very machinable.

Sounds like you may already have an answer, I haven't gotten that far.

Question, may be stupid, even with a metal frame if the ground strap remains on the shaft, wouldn't the current take the most direct path (of least resistance)?

All you have to do is isolate your motor. My set up is different.

I got mine wired up and running today. All the motor parts and right-angle drive were all inside of that box laying on the floor so I have had to build all new brackets for mine...then I managed to lose the wiring diagram I made This is going to be an ongoing, no hurry to get it done kind of a deal. I am going to machine up some pulleys out of acetyl copolymer for pulleys to isolate the drive motor. Don't know how I'm gonna do it all yet but it will be slick when it's done.