[Firestorm102389]

So I’m starting to get some side weld work and I don’t have a garage or anything, so I figured I’d build an enclosed trailer, and I’m looking at metal to use. It’s going to be a 5’x8’ trailer with a 2,000# axle, so nothing crazy. Only going to be loaded about 500-600# of equipment. I’m in the rust belt so I’m going to use c channel for the whole build since after pricing found it was also cheaper with the added bonus of it being stronger than angle.

My thoughts are using 3” x 3.5# channel which is .130 thickness or 3” x 4.1# which is .170 thick, or a mixture
I don’t want it to weigh to much, but I want it to be strong enough not to have issues. Bear minimum, I was thinking of making the frame out of the 3.5# and tongue out of 4.1#.

I weld professionally and can guarantee my weld, but I never built a trailer before and was hoping someone could chime in. If I could use the 3.5# and still be safe that would be great.

[TraditionalToolworks]

My thoughts are using 3” x 3.5# channel which is .130 thickness or 3” x 4.1# which is .170 thick, or a mixture I don’t want it to weigh to much, but I want it to be strong enough not to have issues. Bear minimum, I was thinking of making the frame out of the 3.5# and tongue out of 4.1#.

There's a lot of factors like which way the channel is facing, how long the spans are, etc...maybe this will help, it has some of the math done for you:

http://www.cousesteel.com/AndysPlace/SteelChart.html

This site has a lot of info, but you need to figure out what you need and put it all together.

https://www.engineersedge.com/beam-deflection-menu.htm

I weld professionally and can guarantee my weld, but I never built a trailer before and was hoping someone could chime in. If I could use the 3.5# and still be safe that would be great.

That's a plus for certain. Trailers seem to be the one area that people get the most chastised over in welding forums...DAMHIKT

It was a trailer repair that brought me to welding to begin with, boy did I take heat over that...but I took my time and in the end the project I started was finished with the help of a professional. Worked out well as I was able to complete about half the project on my own and teach myself to weld, so it was very helpful. In your case you already know how to weld, so you just need to understand the numbers.

Josh (Poland308) seems to have a pretty good handle on some of those numbers, maybe he'll be able to chime in and provide some info.

[Oscar]

If not going to be heavily loaded, presumably with a good solid design that you're following/copying, 0.130" wall seems fine for 600lbs or less, That's like a family of 5. Can't see it breaking a trailer, with good, structurally sound welds. But you should also check out the cost for 3/16" (0.187" wall). Might be better to over-build now. You will inevitably pick up more equipment later on.

[cwby]

If you have 2000# axles - design it for gross weight of said axles. i.e 1 axle = 2000#, 2 axle = 4000#.

Then you won't be disappointed when you try to load it. Tools are heavy.

[TraditionalToolworks]

If you have 2000# axles - design it for gross weight of said axles. i.e 1 axle = 2000#, 2 axle = 4000#.

Then you won't be disappointed when you try to load it. Tools are heavy.

Speaking for myself, even a 2000# trailer is pretty useless for most anything...

I have a 12-ton trailer.

Sounds like the OP is building a motorcycle trailer.

[BillE.Dee]

firestorm,,,I'll give you some advice after building a 30x40 barn. When I planned it I had a "few" items to store in the barn, now I. need another one just as big.
"Build it and they will come", the extra tools and items to be stored. The weight will add up in a hurry. Better to spend a few dollars now and have the piece of mind. The little more thickness will mean a lot with just a bit of structural weight. Best not building a house of cards. Best of luck and do keep us posted.
Gramps

[Firestorm102389]

i Appreciate all the responses, and I like the charts that showed supporting weight, it’s just unfortunate they didn’t include 3” channel, so I could see that.

The trailer design is a 50 degree A frame tongue, (5) 5’ supports including the front and rear rails, and the side rails will be 8’. It’s not huge, and I can only Rowe up ti 1500# so I just don’t want it to heavy but I don’t want anything bending on me while using it either.

I’m glad someone mentioned it, yes I am making a motorcycle mount for on the occasion I need it, but right now, all that will be loaded on the regular is the enclosure weight, gas powered air compressor 200#, some air tools and a few hand tools with small tool box 150#, small weld table that’s maybe 100 lbs. the welder and welding accessories stay in my car on transport.

I don’t plan on filling it with a bunch of crap because I need to have room to work in it, but as I understand it the enclosure frame should help structurally stiffen it also. I was planning on using angle iron to trace the corners outlining the box and they’d all be welded to the trailer along with the 3/4 plywood floor, and the wall framing. The wood comes in at around 200#’s I believe last time I checked it. The metal came out to around 250#’s, but that could go up should I use something like 4” channel with the option to upgrade the axle should I want to. I see a lot of car haulers using 4” but idk what # rating they’re using, and that I think is a little overkill because I won’t be hauling anything close to what a car weighs

[tweake]

i would use box section instead of c channel. stronger and corrosion not that big of a deal if you leave the ends open which lets the galv coat the inside when you get it hot dipped galv.
angle iron is fine for the cross beams that the wood fixes to.