Welding Tips and Tricks

Picked up some 3” x 1/8” wall square tube and some 1”x2” rectangular tube for my welding table base.
Still need casters.
Getting better with my welding. Practice does indeed make a difference!




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Nice sturdy frame. What are you using for a top?

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JayWal wrote:Nice sturdy frame. What are you using for a top?

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I had a piece of 3/8” plate waterjet cut.
Amazingly square edges (which is what I was looking for)




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Duplicate post.

Dang, there's some busy bee's on this forum as of late. I almost can't keep up with new threads/posts! It's like a gust of fresh air when you open the shop doors! Lots of projects recently from professional repair, to serious DIY hobby type stuff, and everything in between. I wonder why this place is soooo much better now..?!?!

Time to get out into the garage and at least clean-up and get ready for the weekend!

Oscar wrote:Dang, there's some busy bee's on this forum as of late. I almost can't keep up with new threads/posts! It's like a gust of fresh air when you open the shop doors! Lots of projects recently from professional repair, to serious DIY hobby type stuff, and everything in between. I wonder why this place is soooo much better now..?!?!

Time to get out into the garage and at least clean-up and get ready for the weekend!

I hear you!
It was so good to hear the sizzle of the weld today.
I’m stoked to get the table done so I can practice my TIG skills!


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How are you planning to treat the surface? That looks like a lot of scrubbing to remove that surface rust.

cj737 wrote:How are you planning to treat the surface? That looks like a lot of scrubbing to remove that surface rust.

I’ve had really good luck restoring cast iron tops on saws etc using a purple 3M belt on my belt sander.
This is my bandsaw table.
Before:

After.



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Oh there's ample options for sanding, mechanical removal that all work well. I was just curious if you were going to chemically remove it instead. Shouldn't take hours no matter which route you go. Even periodic treatment of my 72x48 table only takes a solid 30 minutes every couple of months to get it back to shiny and bright.

@cj737 I gave the top a quick go with the belt sander so I could build the legs. Once I put the top on it I'll go at it a bit more seriously.
Do you put anything on the table top to keep it shiny?

cj737 wrote:Oh there's ample options for sanding, mechanical removal that all work well. I was just curious if you were going to chemically remove it instead. Shouldn't take hours no matter which route you go. Even periodic treatment of my 72x48 table only takes a solid 30 minutes every couple of months to get it back to shiny and bright.

How do you clean it? I used a sheet of 3/4 plate, I still have the mill scale on it. Doesn't bother me at all yet in fact I'm guessing spatter might stick a little less on scale than on bright shiny plate. It would look better polished up im sure

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DavidR8 wrote:

cj737 wrote:How are you planning to treat the surface? That looks like a lot of scrubbing to remove that surface rust.

I’ve had really good luck restoring cast iron tops on saws etc using a purple 3M belt on my belt sander.
This is my bandsaw table.
Before:

After.



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Using that 3x21 - ish belt sander? Is it like a felt/fine-grit abrasive belt?

Oscar wrote:

DavidR8 wrote:

cj737 wrote:How are you planning to treat the surface? That looks like a lot of scrubbing to remove that surface rust.

I’ve had really good luck restoring cast iron tops on saws etc using a purple 3M belt on my belt sander.
This is my bandsaw table.
Before:

After.



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Using that 3x21 - ish belt sander? Is it like a felt/fine-grit abrasive belt?

Yes, it’s a 3x21 sander.
The belt is the same consistency/grit as a purple 3M Scotchbrite pad.
Works like a charm.


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DavidR8 wrote:@cj737 I gave the top a quick go with the belt sander so I could build the legs. Once I put the top on it I'll go at it a bit more seriously.
Do you put anything on the table top to keep it shiny?

CRC SP350 does a pretty good job at keeping the surface from flash rusting or pitting. I clean the surface regularly (well, maybe not as often as I think I do ) with a quick spray down of foaming engine cleaner, then I use Acetone to dehydrate and clean the surface. Followed up by SP350. I let that sit at least overnight or until I need the table again (days).

JayWal wrote:How do you clean it? I used a sheet of 3/4 plate, I still have the mill scale on it. Doesn't bother me at all yet in fact I'm guessing spatter might stick a little less on scale than on bright shiny plate. It would look better polished up im sure

I had my plate Blanchard ground both sides. So it was really nice and shiny. It's not that shiny anymore, but still pretty clean. I don't use a grinder/sander on it because I "try" to avoid effecting the table's flatness. There's some dings and small gouges as happens, but overall I am still surface flat that there is no light or space for a 0.0001 feeler gauge between the top and 24" machinist's square anywhere. This is mostly due to luck, not required tolerances.

I blued mine and wipe it down every few weeks with inox. Never gets rust and spatter doesn't stick although I mostly tig, occasional mig.

Coldman wrote:I blued mine and wipe it down every few weeks with inox. Never gets rust and spatter doesn't stick although I mostly tig, occasional mig.

This is a really good choice too. Mine is inundated with 5/8" (16mm) holes on a 2" (50mm) grid. Bluing those holes would be a nightmare! As it is, I do have to run a die grinder with a wire brush in them now and again to keep them clean and gunk free.

I’m thinking about renting a mag drill so I can put in some clamping holes.
Considering picking up another set of import Teco-style clamps that are used for milling machine setups as hold downs and stops.

Just pondering at this point.


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cj737 wrote:

Coldman wrote:I blued mine and wipe it down every few weeks with inox. Never gets rust and spatter doesn't stick although I mostly tig, occasional mig.

This is a really good choice too. Mine is inundated with 5/8" (16mm) holes on a 2" (50mm) grid. Bluing those holes would be a nightmare! As it is, I do have to run a die grinder with a wire brush in them now and again to keep them clean and gunk free.

Mine's holed out same. Bluing the holes wasn't nearly as bad as drilling em. To clean em every so often I use spaypak brake clean and compressed air. Takes 5-10 mins. No biggie.

cj737 wrote:

Coldman wrote:I blued mine and wipe it down every few weeks with inox. Never gets rust and spatter doesn't stick although I mostly tig, occasional mig.

This is a really good choice too. Mine is inundated with 5/8" (16mm) holes on a 2" (50mm) grid. Bluing those holes would be a nightmare! As it is, I do have to run a die grinder with a wire brush in them now and again to keep them clean and gunk free.

Mine's holed out same. Bluing the holes wasn't nearly as bad as drilling em. To clean em every so often I use spaypak brake clean and compressed air. Takes 5-10 mins. No biggie.

DavidR8 wrote:I’m thinking about renting a mag drill so I can put in some clamping holes.
Considering picking up another set of import Teco-style clamps that are used for milling machine setups as hold downs and stops.

If you do, purchase annular cutting bits. Skip the twist drills. Your holes will be “machined” quality, cut faster, and blow through in seconds. Literally.

I have a Mag drill and used one to drill mine (roughly 840 holes) through .750 thick plate. Took 17” per hole to drill. Mine also does have a coolant attachment so that aides in prolonging the cutter’s life and improving its efficiency.

Thanks for the tips @cj737!


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