Welding Tips and Tricks

I had to raise a valve off of our grain cleaner to get more fall on a spout ,mocked up what I wanted and tried to build as much as i could on the back of the service truck . Everything is harder 100' in the air.
I keep playing with 6010 for this kind of work but alway seem to end up back at 7014 .it just seems to put a lot down in a hurry and looks good without a lot of effort .
This is what I do during millwright season (warm weather)

Wow!

Every transition I ever built was in 304ss, and MIGged with a suitcase.

Nice work!

Steve S

Hey, MillwrightRWG,

Do you know Gary Casteel?

Steve S

No sorry I don't


But I would like to figure out a better way measure my triangles . Here's what I do now , i measure the base , measure the length of the point 90 deg from base and the distance from that 90deg line to one end of the base .
Problem is with interference with the part and my square .I use a combo square if the part isn't to big and a lot of times there isn't room for the blade to extend beyond the base or the point .ive been making this stuff 10yrs this way and have always made due ,but I know there's a better way.
I've got to build a bigger one tomorrow I will try and get some more pics.

Thanks
Ryan

Or was that reference to my part looking like a artistic flower pot?

if you think 7014 puts down lots of weld metal try 7024. they don't call it jetwire for nothing but only good for flat and horizontal. btw, nice looking work!

I would often use a straightedge and a carpenter's adjustable bevel to find the angle of my cut. The bevel has about a 6" base and an 8" blade, and with the set-screw at the right tension, it was easy to align the cut I wanted. I could then use it on the stock like a square, and use my straightedge to extend the line to whatever length I needed.

Steve S

Otto Nobedder wrote:I would often use a straightedge and a carpenter's adjustable bevel to find the angle of my cut. The bevel has about a 6" base and an 8" blade, and with the set-screw at the right tension, it was easy to align the cut I wanted. I could then use it on the stock like a square, and use my straightedge to extend the line to whatever length I needed.

Steve S

a six inch carpenter's adjustable bevel is a handy tool but limited due to it's small size. i made a 2ft one from 1 1/2" flats
with a 1" blade and a 1/4" bolt and wing nut to maintain tension. it's got a little weight but very useful.

Ok here's one that I biult in place made from 3/16" ar235 all of the welding was done with 6011 and the Lincoln eagle on the truck .My cut man was on the ball .

Forgive some of my welds had a little trouble with my balance very windy and turns out that I had a metal chip in my eye from the day before. They are effective for that I was doing (dust tight).

I love the "rotation" in the transition! I don't remember building one that had a twist in it. It was either single or rolling offset, but no angular change.

Nice work!

Steve S