Welding Tips and Tricks

Here is a couple deer stands I just finished. Nothing fancy, took a full day of cutting and welding. It was a lot of work flyin solo without any type of lift. From the floor down is 1.5'' x 1/8'' square tubing and above the floor is 1'' x 1/8'' square tubing.

For my next project I was thinking of building a utility trailer maybe 6' x 14'. Im thinking 2'' x 2'' x 3/16'' angle on the main frame and 2'' x 2'' 1/8'' on the rails with 3500# single axle. Does this sound adequate or do I need heavier steel?

Welcome aboard!

That's nice work on the deer stands. I assume they're intended to be "skidded" in to place behind a four-wheeler, by the runners.

My thoughts on the trailer project: For a 14' with a single axle, I'd look for rectangular tubing or c-channel, 1 1/2" X 3". 11ga. (1/8") for rectangular tube, 3/16 for c-channel. This is based on the single 3500# axle and the idea that you may load it to 1750# or better at some point, and you will build it to be street-legal.

If it's utility use only, at home, and not to be inspected or titled, there are no requirements, but for road use, the frame should be able to hold the full axle-rating (evenly distributed).

Your local highway patrol headquarters should be able to give you all the info you need to build a highway-compliant trailer.

Steve S

That is a big trailer for 3500 lbs. When you subtract the weight of the trailer from 3500 you may not have enough payload. I like to use 2 x 3 x 1/4" angle for the main frame on small trailers and 3 x 4 x 1/4" angle for 7000 lb trailers and 2 x 2 x1/4" angle for all the cross members. I like to use angle because it gives a flat side to weld all of your rails to and more area to mount your axles on the bottom. Unless you already have an axle I would suggest a torflex type axle. They trail and tow much better and quieter. I have always put tandems under everything 12' and longer unless someone just insisted they only hauled light loads.

Kevin

Thanx guys, thats a lot of helpful info!!!