I plan to make some tool stands with Big Truck Brake drums for the base.
I really like this one I found online...
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The cast drums are about 110lbs and the pipe is about 8" diameter.
Is it possible to weld this with MIG, using lots of very short welds or is it better to try stick? I want to avoid the Pre-heat process. For the MIG, is it better to use stainless wire?
With that mass of cast without pre-heat I think the weld would be very hard / brittle - almost certainly will leave an acceptable looking weld - but over time & heavy use it will crack - it's more work but I would say the better solution is to cut a steel disc out of suitable size - weld this to the upright ( maybe with a gusset or 3 ) then bolt the drum on using the original stud holes - a few years back there was a craze around here for making wood burning stoves out of large brake drums - no matter how they were welded everyone I saw cracked - I realize there are some heat cyclic issues here as well - but some things just don't like to be welded.
no TIG over the MIG... What you see is a second pass with the MIG.... That's all the power I have.... The pipe is 6" Sched 40, .288" and 3/8" plate... The Hobart 150 at #4 ~29V and ~300ipm .035 wire.
Glen,
Wow, that left side sure looks like tig from here. If that's the case good mig like tig.
Well you already have it welded, otherwise I would offer suggestions to help with the heat. Keep on keeping on.
-Jonathan
I can always use help! I have more of these I'm going to do. I neet to look at proper techniques, settings and procedures... Hobart 150 or Dynasty 200dx is what I have to use. Haven't done stick before!
GlenC wrote:I can always use help! I have more of these I'm going to do. I neet to look at proper techniques, settings and procedures... Hobart 150 or Dynasty 200dx is what I have to use. Haven't done stick before!
Since your metal is clean, I would use the Dynasty for the control and amps. Don't get my wrong, the welds will hold fine. If you use the mig I was going to suggest a slight preheat. Another suggestion, for both procedures, grind off the mill scale. See how the weld has cold lap or lack of penetration on the toes? Grinding scale will actually help with that.
Just some thoughts.
-Jonathan
Single will be plenty. How thick is that plate? If it is 1/4" or under you are golden. Of course you could put a root in and then walk the cup just for the practice and bragging rights.
-Jonathan
I was also thinking of cutting the hole in the 3/8" plate larger so the pipe slips inside. Wouldn't that aide the penetration .... guess I could cut it same size and have an outside corner weld from the inside and a fillet around the outside...
For fun you can cut a hole so the pipe just slips through and put the pipe flush with the bottom of the plate. Then you can practice fusing the pipe to plate and still practice walking the cup on the top. Waste of gas and filler but it would be good practice.
-Jonathan
It took me 14 years to use the last bottle of argon! Hope I live long enough to use this one! I did weld thisone eith the plate bolted to the drum to minimize distortion. Since the pipe is 6" and the hole in the drum is 8+" , I didn't think that would effect penetration.
mcoe wrote:Looks good, I wish I wouldn't have mounted my saw to the wall, I found a few times where that stand would be handy.
Build a stand and take it off the wall! It is so nice to finally have it off the ground! I need to check to see if the Makita Abrasive saw fits in the base....
It is so nice to finally have it off the ground! I need to check to see if the Makita Abrasive saw fits in the base....
