Welding Tips and Tricks

I was removing the skid plate on my excavator and one of the bolts broke. The plate is not off yet because I think a couple more will break. I watched Jody's video again about removing the broken stud. Would it be best to follow that same procedure? If so, since it is a steel bolt in to a steel frame, should I use steel filler or 309 as Jody did? This will be a challenge as it has to be done overhead with a torch switch instead of a pedal.

I forgot to mention, the bolt is broken off flush.

Ive done that several times with my flux core welder, haven't had a chance to try it with my new tig. It might take a few attempts but ive never had it not work.

A lot of guys I know of just weld a washer on to the broken bolt, then a bigger nut onto the washer, the just screw it out. (gently)

Using 309 stick.

Mick

I like the idea of welding a washer on first! Ive always just welded a nut on.

Since posting, I read about the washer trick. I assume the idea is that if the hole in the washer is slightly smaller than the bolt it acts as sort of a shield to keep you from welding the bolt to the part?

I would assume so. And to allow a bigger nut to be welded on. ??

Mick

weld the bolt to the washer then strike the bolt
with a hammer after it cools, helps to loosen
the old treads. sometimes the nut will break
off the stud or washer but stay with it, it will
work.

When flush like described, I mig weld a washer, then a nut to the washer, then fill the nut with weld.

Works first time pretty often, most it's taken was three on a really rusty one.

Flux core, tig, stick - they would all work too.

Never heard of the washer idea... probably allows more surface area too. Did you get it to work? Post up pics if you can!

I think the idea behind the washer first is it is easier to weld than a smaller nut.
Welding something about .1" thick vs .5" thick, not really having to weld down inside the smaller nut.

What size stud? For large bolts that just wouldn't budge I've had good luck drilling into the stud then heating with a torch then immediately quenching with cool water and smacking an easy out into the drilled hole and then back it out. The only problem with this approach is if you don't get it, it is now hard as hellh

MinnesotaDave wrote:When flush like described, I mig weld a washer, then a nut to the washer, then fill the nut with weld.

Works first time pretty often, most it's taken was three on a really rusty one.

Flux core, tig, stick - they would all work too.

Thanks Dave. Glad to hear that MIG will work for this. I was not looking forward to trying to TIG under there. Do you use ER70S-6 wire or stainless?

It is a 10mm bolt that has broken so I was thinking that a 5/16 washer would be appropriate. Does that sound reasonable?

The other thing I have heard that works is drilling it with a left hand bit. Have you ever tried that?

450dualsport wrote:

MinnesotaDave wrote:When flush like described, I mig weld a washer, then a nut to the washer, then fill the nut with weld.

Works first time pretty often, most it's taken was three on a really rusty one.

Flux core, tig, stick - they would all work too.

Thanks Dave. Glad to hear that MIG will work for this. I was not looking forward to trying to TIG under there. Do you use ER70S-6 wire or stainless?

It is a 10mm bolt that has broken so I was thinking that a 5/16 washer would be appropriate. Does that sound reasonable?

The other thing I have heard that works is drilling it with a left hand bit. Have you ever tried that?

Drill bits only work if the bolt is broken off clean and straight....

It is a clean, flush break. The thing I don't like about drilling is that it is hard to get perfectly centered and hard to keep the drill straight when you can't use a drill press (for me anyway) .

Once you drill, and if that doesn't work, is welding still an option?

450dualsport wrote:It is a clean, flush break. The thing I don't like about drilling is that it is hard to get perfectly centered and hard to keep the drill straight when you can't use a drill press (for me anyway) .

Once you drill, and if that doesn't work, is welding still an option?

Yeah, it would make it even better once its drilled....
Way better chance at getting good fusion to the bolt....

These are a 9/16" bolt....Rear tractor tire...
They worked loose and snapped off....Which makes everything less impressive

Extractors rarely work on rusted and seized parts....

Yeah, I've never had any luck with "easy outs."
More like break off and piss you offs. Lol
Idea behind left hand drill bits is it may catch and turn out.
If it's not a blind hole, a normal drill could spin it on through also. (Long as no shank or shoulder is left)
I've heard good things about Kroil made by kano labs. Thrust works well also. And last but not least, pb blaster hasn't failed me often.
For me, it's usually exhaust bolts that I break.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

Jasper,
The reason "easy outs" worked for me is that the studs weren't seized that much....
Yeah, kroil is awesome....

AK, your tractor project looks similar to what I will be doing, except I will be working underneath.

Thanks for the tips. I think I will drill a bit before welding as I think you would get better fusion to the bolt.

IF you have acesses to a lathe, cut a thick washer with a tapered hole no bigger than the tap drill size of bolt, when flush break/ grind, big for heat sink/protect surface and threaded portion. heat and birthday candle wax.

rick9345 wrote:IF you have acesses to a lathe, cut a thick washer with a tapered hole no bigger than the tap drill size of bolt, when flush break/ grind, big for heat sink/protect surface and threaded portion. heat and birthday candle wax.

Rick, could you explain that with a bit more detail? I couldn't understand...

1" bar stock1
Drill 5/16(8.5)
Counter sink 45*
Cut off

awesome trick ill have to chuck up the logan
next time i need to pull a stud from a motorcycle
cylinder head.
thanks for sharing

rick9345 wrote:IF you have acesses to a lathe, cut a thick washer with a tapered hole no bigger than the tap drill size of bolt, when flush break/ grind, big for heat sink/protect surface and threaded portion. heat and birthday candle wax.

Thanks. I do have access to a lathe, so something else to try.