Welding Tips and Tricks

I decided that our plain ole driveway gate just didn't go with the bifold gate I made last month (seen in background of photos) so it was time to do something about it. (http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... old#p72560)

To ease the flow of my wife's clients without having to constantly operate the gate opener, I added a pedestrian pass through gate that is nearly hidden when closed. The wrought iron figure on the top of the gate reflects my wife's business logo, a tree branch.

I had a basic design on Sketchup and started on it while my wife was out of town on a business trip. I had one week to complete it so I could surprise her for our anniversary (happy wife = happy life + more toys). Success on all fronts.

VERY NICE work! I shy away from ornamental work because I can't fine guys that are "that good", details are everything in that business and you nailed it.

Wow, coming from you and your knowledge that's a huge compliment.

The wrought iron portion was much more time-consuming than I expected. I reused the iron taken from the original gate. As a result there was a lot of paint/primer on it that cracked when I cold shaped it that needed to be removed. They also had old welds and cut-off gouges from the bars' removal that needed to be cleaned up as well. Sooooo much work getting the iron ready to weld. I TIG'd a lot of the wrought iron until my flex-head broke. It took me a day of designing the flow, cutting, fitting, and welding. Thank goodness for the "hammered finish" paint to hide imperfections.

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Any chance I get I go "texture" powder coating myself, don't have the time to do auto body finish on stuff. And trust me I fine tooth combed it all the way down to the nice attachment of the operator arm and the clean level/plumb installation of the control enclosure.

PS Scaling off your downspout to get the size, I would quote that installed for around $5,500.00. How much you got in it?

PSS For your ornamental needs, friend of mine owns Texas Metals Industries, check them out.

That is an awesome job on the gate. I am building my own fence. I have been thinking about the gate and trying to minimize the weight but also trying to build something that will keep my boarder collie in the back yard. My gate has to span 14' I really like your idea of wood metal combo.

14ft, even aluminum if you don't like the look of turnbuckle/cable or a wheel, you will need some serious bridging engineering in your design.

Can it be a slider?

How much did I miss it by?? lol

close. 50" x 120" (4'2" x 10')

The hinges were the most expensive part of the project. They are spring-loaded, hydraulic-damped self-closing hinges that swing 180deg. $200 for a single hinge! luckily I only needed one of that style and a free-swinging hinge for a mere $100.
While it seems odd that the driveway gate swings out and the pedestrian gate swings in, I did so for a reason. Dogs. Latches aren't easily implemented because of the gate opener. If a dog gets past the bifolds or they are left open and heads to the main gate, it won't be able to simply push the gate open.

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Darn it, scaled off the downspout, you must have the bigger, good ones. There is phenomenal money (margin) where I am at in ornamental work. Unfortunately when you charge the higher prices the client expect perfection and rightfully so. A lot of a guys interpretations seem to be "good enough" which is fine for a structural beam or column but not for a $10,000 dollar driveway gate. (No BS have seen gates in Naples Florida that went in for around 50K). I just get tired of micro managing my guys or end up getting stuck doing it myself to ensure quality, I have plenty of other work to not sweat it. Shame too, it is fun work.

In regards to cost, I used the existing gate frame and just raised the middle crossbar. I bought a 9' drop of 2" sq tubing 11ga to finish off the gate end and center piece. Drop of 1/4"'x2" flat for the hidden gate hinge side, 5 sticks of 3/16x3/4" crossbar, all for under $100. $25 paint? Don't recall how much wood but not much, few pieces of 1x8 that I ripped and slotted to fit over the 3/16". All total materials was under $200 plus $320 for the hinges. I didn't think that was bad at all.

ttreb4, with a border collie (too damn smart dogs) you probably need a keypad with a changing access code, otherwise he'll figure it out and let himself in/out when he pleases

I'm at the end of the adjustment range of the gate's limit switches and need just a bit more movement to close completely. I may need to cut and reweld the post attachment. doh.

So here's a question. It seems like the gate was built with thinner gauge tubing on both of the vertical endpieces. That seemed odd to me. Why not use the same material all the way around? Is that a standard practice or did the builder somehow run out of material or ??

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Awesome work. Something to be proud of.



Kym

Probably just used what he had, the load is at the ground connection point and it looks like TS4x4 doesn't need to be heavy wall unless the gate is massive/heavy which is rare. The way we usually do it on post gates (opposed) to masonry columns, etc. is we send a field measure crew out and while they are there they layout, dig the post footings, pour them and sink an embed plate with nelson studs in them (couple inches below grade). This not only prevents having to brace the post in both axis for plumb while concrete is setting up, it gives us a little wiggle room if there are small measurement "issues" on install.

When we go out for install we set our posts on the embeds, tack, plumb, weld where they need to be as far as spacing. Seal and back fill. And if someone accidentally backs into your post and bends it, you can just whack it off with a torch at the embed and install another one.

PS And now I know you re-worked the existing gate makes it even more impressive. Gate number 1 for portfolio.

DLewis, that first paragraph was quite an education. I looked up Nelson studs, embed plates, etc. thanks.

yep, one full-size gate and one small gate for the portfolio. Time to start building that portfolio.

I'm not sure if I explained my question well enough or if I just completely missed your point. I wasn't looking at the 4x4 thickness, it was the 2x2s. The vertical end pieces of the original gate appeared to be 14 gauge and the horizontals were all 11 gauge.

Ahhh, I miss understood. I would like to give you a fancy engineered answer like the stresses are different in the different axis', but the honest truth is probably just what he had.

There is an old saying "Make a silk purse from a sow's ear" and that is what you did!

BTW,Thanks Kym. I enjoy following your adventures with bike frames.