Amperage settings should always be above the rule of thumb, then use the peddle to modulate below that. If your material is 0.063 and the filler is 0.045 you have closer to 0.90 of amperage need (assuming you add a lot of filler). This means you need to loiter offer the puddle, and as Arno pointed out, heat soak the material.
Expecting someone with limited experience of being able to dab and roll and still produce great looking welds, well, that’s just a fools errand. Instagram and YT welds are the work of artisans. Production welding (done my some of the pros here) is strong, presentable, and has lots of inconsistencies in it, even bench-made welds. Because pretty doesn’t mean good or strong. Pretty is pretty. They can be strong and they can be great welds, but pretty comes much, much later.
If you take a brand new piece of 1/8 material, 1/16 filler, run 150 amps max, use the pedal to meter the heat, keep a tight arc, then run a 4” weld (Pyrex cups are perfectly good by the way) examine the HAZ. Then repeat this weld using 95 amps, parallel to it (offset by a 1-1/2”) and increase your arc length by 50% and examine the HAZ. You will see the telltale signs of when you are long arcing, and how heat soaking material effects the weld and the HAZ.
Sometimes the best teacher is to intentionally do it wrong. You can repeat this exercise bumping from 95-130 as you go (maybe 5 amps each run). You will find the sweet post for your speed and filler feed habits. It’s just practice but your practice needs to also teach you something, not just habituate motor skills.
Post up those pictures and we can shoot you some feedback.
Hi Arno,
Lots of great advice in your message. Thanks for sharing all that you did.
I agree about the muscle memory. I'm just trying to be as aware as I can of the critical issues so that I don't reinforce bad habits. I am finally getting to the point I am able to think one or two steps ahead...before I make a mistake and kind of take myself down a notch.
I have days where I can spend an hour or two in the garage, and other days when I can't sit down at the bench. I know it will come... it's just not coming very fast.
I appreciate all you shared.
Take Care,
Jeff
Lots of great advice in your message. Thanks for sharing all that you did.
I agree about the muscle memory. I'm just trying to be as aware as I can of the critical issues so that I don't reinforce bad habits. I am finally getting to the point I am able to think one or two steps ahead...before I make a mistake and kind of take myself down a notch.
I have days where I can spend an hour or two in the garage, and other days when I can't sit down at the bench. I know it will come... it's just not coming very fast.
I appreciate all you shared.
Take Care,
Jeff
Hi CJ,
Thanks for your advice.
I'll be honest, trying to get a consistent view of the arc (to be able to keep that distance off the puddle) is a big challenge for me. Just trying to see it consistently is tough. I'll keep working at it, though.
Needing to move faster to minimize the HAZ and still feed somewhat consistently is tough, too. Not sure if the right thing is to get more comfortable with the torch and filler feeding, and have slower travel speed, or if I should try to do faster travel speeds and know that I will be dipping the tungsten more often, or jamming the filler into the tungsten.
As good as I felt Sunday about how things were going, Monday and Tuesday were pretty much 3 step back days. Pretty disappointing.
Hope to be back at it this evening.
I appreciate all that you have shared.
Jeff
Thanks for your advice.
I'll be honest, trying to get a consistent view of the arc (to be able to keep that distance off the puddle) is a big challenge for me. Just trying to see it consistently is tough. I'll keep working at it, though.
Needing to move faster to minimize the HAZ and still feed somewhat consistently is tough, too. Not sure if the right thing is to get more comfortable with the torch and filler feeding, and have slower travel speed, or if I should try to do faster travel speeds and know that I will be dipping the tungsten more often, or jamming the filler into the tungsten.
As good as I felt Sunday about how things were going, Monday and Tuesday were pretty much 3 step back days. Pretty disappointing.
Hope to be back at it this evening.
I appreciate all that you have shared.
Jeff
Use thicker filler wire, it makes everything much easier. You can always add less, but needing to always add more is a challenge with heat control. Stuffing 1/16 wire into a weld that wants 3/32 means adding heat to fuse the extra wire, camping out on the metal while it wets in, and heat soaks the material.
With 3/32, you can “skimp” and roll on. Don’t feel like you need to rush, but try for a rhythmic motion. Pause, dip, move, pause, dip, move, etc. 1,2 pause, 1,2 pause, etc. Find some background music to weld by. Whatever relaxes you so you can focus but not be tense. You’ll be surprised at how much improvement it can make.
With 3/32, you can “skimp” and roll on. Don’t feel like you need to rush, but try for a rhythmic motion. Pause, dip, move, pause, dip, move, etc. 1,2 pause, 1,2 pause, etc. Find some background music to weld by. Whatever relaxes you so you can focus but not be tense. You’ll be surprised at how much improvement it can make.
Because the metal is hot, but hot enough to melt the filler. It’s an indication the puddle is too cold. Crank it up and go.
Filler is used to “chill” the puddle. It prevents the base from being burned away. Get to the point of almost blowing away the edge of the metal in a butt joint and use the filler to keep it together. That’s a great way to learn how to use filler.
Filler is used to “chill” the puddle. It prevents the base from being burned away. Get to the point of almost blowing away the edge of the metal in a butt joint and use the filler to keep it together. That’s a great way to learn how to use filler.
Hey,
(I thought I posted this earlier; but, I sure can't find it.)
Making a bad day worse... starting the first bead on a coupon late this afternoon there was a very large bang from the Diversion 180. No power to the display. Like to hope it's a fuse or capacitor; but, the way today has been I'm preparing for the worst. I bought the 180 new in 2014. So, it's out of warranty. I bought Miller and paid a premium thinking that it would be a good investment. I know that if it's a board on the welder it likely won't be worth repairing.
I've talked to the LWS and will take it in tomorrow morning. Hopefully they can give me a quick guess as to what's wrong with it, and if it's worth the price to fix it. (I'm guessing that there's probably less than 30 hours of actual weld time on it.)
If I need to start looking for another machine, does anyone have suggestions? I'm not so much sold on paying a premium for another Miller. Eventually I'd like to do AC for aluminum. Having the ability to adjust at least pre and post flow would be good, too. Anything you'd recommend staying away from? I mainly want reliability. I don't want to put too much thought into worst case; but, I don't want to lose everything that I have picked up the last couple of months.
Update: I switched the plug on the power cord about an hour ago. Plugged it into 110 and turned it on. The display came on. I turned it off and switched plugs. I then checked the 220 V breaker. It looked like it could have been tripped. I turned it off, then back on. Plugged in the 220 and powered the machine up. This time the display came up... for about 2-seconds. Another large bang, followed by smoke this time. The machine is outside now waiting to go to the LWS.
Jeff
(I thought I posted this earlier; but, I sure can't find it.)
Making a bad day worse... starting the first bead on a coupon late this afternoon there was a very large bang from the Diversion 180. No power to the display. Like to hope it's a fuse or capacitor; but, the way today has been I'm preparing for the worst. I bought the 180 new in 2014. So, it's out of warranty. I bought Miller and paid a premium thinking that it would be a good investment. I know that if it's a board on the welder it likely won't be worth repairing.
I've talked to the LWS and will take it in tomorrow morning. Hopefully they can give me a quick guess as to what's wrong with it, and if it's worth the price to fix it. (I'm guessing that there's probably less than 30 hours of actual weld time on it.)
If I need to start looking for another machine, does anyone have suggestions? I'm not so much sold on paying a premium for another Miller. Eventually I'd like to do AC for aluminum. Having the ability to adjust at least pre and post flow would be good, too. Anything you'd recommend staying away from? I mainly want reliability. I don't want to put too much thought into worst case; but, I don't want to lose everything that I have picked up the last couple of months.
Update: I switched the plug on the power cord about an hour ago. Plugged it into 110 and turned it on. The display came on. I turned it off and switched plugs. I then checked the 220 V breaker. It looked like it could have been tripped. I turned it off, then back on. Plugged in the 220 and powered the machine up. This time the display came up... for about 2-seconds. Another large bang, followed by smoke this time. The machine is outside now waiting to go to the LWS.
Jeff
That’s a real bummer. I have a 2005 Miller Dynasty that simply won’t die. I’ve tried, many ways to kill it so I can justify buying a new one. Nope.
If I were you, I’d buy a PrimeWeld 225. AC/DC, adjustable settings, and everything you need for $800. It’s a very good machine for your needs.
If I were you, I’d buy a PrimeWeld 225. AC/DC, adjustable settings, and everything you need for $800. It’s a very good machine for your needs.
Thanks CJ,
I'm really pissed at Miller. I know I let the machine sit around before I used it. I paid a premium for a reason... good brand name, and reputation for reliability. I took it to the LWS this morning. They were absolutely awesome to talk with. They waived their normal $85 fee to diagnose the problem after we talked for a while. The tech knew pretty much what he was going to find... and he did. Some smoked transistors on the printed circuit board.
The printed circuit board cost from Miller is $2,200 and then there is the cost to install it (since I wouldn't be able to buy the part myself). Is it just me, or does that sound completely insane. I get that things are hard to come by; but, frick.... I now have a much different opinion of Miller. If you can't rely on them, I can spend much less and buy a machine that I'd consider to be disposable anyway. The Diversion is certainly throw-away at this point. It's like brand new and it's essentially worthless.
I was looking at the CK MT-200 that Jody sells. I just don't know that I can justify over twice the price when compared to the PrimeWeld. (I also looked a little at Everlast.)
I can get the PrimeWeld through HomeDepot which would be an advantage for me... so I guess I am leaning that direction. It looks like the only thing I would really need to add is a footpedal.
Do you know anything about the PrimeWeld that may not be talked about much... like how loud the cooling fans are, and if they are on-demand or on all the time?
Thanks again.
Jeff
I'm going to put you on the spot... If your Dynasty blew up today, would you replace it with the PrimeWeld without looking at many other options?cj737 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 17, 2021 10:01 am That’s a real bummer. I have a 2005 Miller Dynasty that simply won’t die. I’ve tried, many ways to kill it so I can justify buying a new one. Nope.
If I were you, I’d buy a PrimeWeld 225. AC/DC, adjustable settings, and everything you need for $800. It’s a very good machine for your needs.
I'm really pissed at Miller. I know I let the machine sit around before I used it. I paid a premium for a reason... good brand name, and reputation for reliability. I took it to the LWS this morning. They were absolutely awesome to talk with. They waived their normal $85 fee to diagnose the problem after we talked for a while. The tech knew pretty much what he was going to find... and he did. Some smoked transistors on the printed circuit board.
The printed circuit board cost from Miller is $2,200 and then there is the cost to install it (since I wouldn't be able to buy the part myself). Is it just me, or does that sound completely insane. I get that things are hard to come by; but, frick.... I now have a much different opinion of Miller. If you can't rely on them, I can spend much less and buy a machine that I'd consider to be disposable anyway. The Diversion is certainly throw-away at this point. It's like brand new and it's essentially worthless.
I was looking at the CK MT-200 that Jody sells. I just don't know that I can justify over twice the price when compared to the PrimeWeld. (I also looked a little at Everlast.)
I can get the PrimeWeld through HomeDepot which would be an advantage for me... so I guess I am leaning that direction. It looks like the only thing I would really need to add is a footpedal.
Do you know anything about the PrimeWeld that may not be talked about much... like how loud the cooling fans are, and if they are on-demand or on all the time?
Thanks again.
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff2016 on Sat Dec 18, 2021 1:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
Yours is a Diversion, not a Dynasty. Big difference in the units. Not saying the Diversion is a crap machine, but surely sounds as though you had crap luck.
To answer your question, no, I’d re-buy a Dynasty and pay the >$4k because at times I need the capabilities, but I always want the features
I’ve turned a few local pals onto PrimeWelds. They have all been very happy with them, I’ve used them (to help them learn, pitch in to help do some more difficult welding, etc) and I have no complaints about it. I did almost buy one 2 years ago, right before COVID-paranoia. Was about to take a lucrative project on, needing to be onsite 50 hours a week in a dodgy part of MD. Was going to buy and leave a PW in a locked job box instead of risking my Dynasty. Was all stainless work, so lift arc DC was the game. PW would have been perfect for it. And the pay/project would have more than covered a one-time $800 discardable machine. Shame it got canned…
Fans are fans. They’re all noisy when they run, but with some background tunes and angle grinders running and a compressor cycling, and AC high frequency squealing, who can hear them? Heck, trains go past and I can’t hear those.
On a sidebar, I’ve had some luck with having boards repaired, not discarded and replaced. I believe there’s a place in GA that can do it, but I’ve had mine repaired locally. Blew some component on the board, LWS repaired it. It blew again, they replaced the component. Cost me less than $300 with labor and saved me $4k. I’ll stick with my Dynasty machines, thank you very much. Maybe I’m lucky, but I don’t know anyone who has ever had a Dynasty flake on them.
To answer your question, no, I’d re-buy a Dynasty and pay the >$4k because at times I need the capabilities, but I always want the features
I’ve turned a few local pals onto PrimeWelds. They have all been very happy with them, I’ve used them (to help them learn, pitch in to help do some more difficult welding, etc) and I have no complaints about it. I did almost buy one 2 years ago, right before COVID-paranoia. Was about to take a lucrative project on, needing to be onsite 50 hours a week in a dodgy part of MD. Was going to buy and leave a PW in a locked job box instead of risking my Dynasty. Was all stainless work, so lift arc DC was the game. PW would have been perfect for it. And the pay/project would have more than covered a one-time $800 discardable machine. Shame it got canned…
Fans are fans. They’re all noisy when they run, but with some background tunes and angle grinders running and a compressor cycling, and AC high frequency squealing, who can hear them? Heck, trains go past and I can’t hear those.
On a sidebar, I’ve had some luck with having boards repaired, not discarded and replaced. I believe there’s a place in GA that can do it, but I’ve had mine repaired locally. Blew some component on the board, LWS repaired it. It blew again, they replaced the component. Cost me less than $300 with labor and saved me $4k. I’ll stick with my Dynasty machines, thank you very much. Maybe I’m lucky, but I don’t know anyone who has ever had a Dynasty flake on them.
No, 737 won't be replacing his Dynasty with a PrimeWeld. He is a pro level welder and can take advantage of everything the Dynasty offers. I'm nowhere near that skill level myself. I have a Neverlast 255EXT that is about 3.5 years old. It developed issues about 2 years ago, and I called customer support for help. They were less than useless, blamed all the welding issues on me. Seems odd that I had the skills to avoid the problems 6 months earlier, and then got too stupid weld. I opened up the welder, and found a number of issues, some of which I fixed. (See the thread 'Neverlast Lied Again') Bottom line...... Don't even consider buying Neverlast!
For somebody below 'expert level', I think the PrimeWeld is hard to beat. It is an even better deal when you look at the price. If my welder died tomorrow, would I buy a PrimeWeld? Sure would! It can do 90% of the work that I did with my Neverlast, maybe even 95%. The money that I save going PrimeWeld will be a LOT more than the money I would loose on the 10% that it can't do.
Maybe PW will bring out a 280 or 300 amp machine for $1200-1500. I can wish, can't I?
For somebody below 'expert level', I think the PrimeWeld is hard to beat. It is an even better deal when you look at the price. If my welder died tomorrow, would I buy a PrimeWeld? Sure would! It can do 90% of the work that I did with my Neverlast, maybe even 95%. The money that I save going PrimeWeld will be a LOT more than the money I would loose on the 10% that it can't do.
Maybe PW will bring out a 280 or 300 amp machine for $1200-1500. I can wish, can't I?
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
HI CJ,
Funny you should mention the company in Georgia. I exchanged a couple emails early this afternoon with a guy from Craigslist here in Indy. He advertises to buy non-working Mig machines. A very nice guy. Wrote me back to tell me that he doesn't mess with Tig machines. He brought up the subject of board repair. After doing some Googling I came across the website for Expert Industrial Electronic Repair (EIC). I entered my information into a contact form on their website about 5:00 this evening. At 11:30 this evening I received an email back from them. It sounds promising. Other than the time to remove the board the only cost should I not go ahead with any repairs (or should the board not be repairable) is the return shipping. I was really impressed.
It sounds like you're a lot more of a professional (or at least close) than you are a hobbyist. lol
I appreciate all of your advice. I'll keep you posted.
Take Care,
Jeff
Typing too fast, I suppose. Thanks for pointing out my mistake.
Funny you should mention the company in Georgia. I exchanged a couple emails early this afternoon with a guy from Craigslist here in Indy. He advertises to buy non-working Mig machines. A very nice guy. Wrote me back to tell me that he doesn't mess with Tig machines. He brought up the subject of board repair. After doing some Googling I came across the website for Expert Industrial Electronic Repair (EIC). I entered my information into a contact form on their website about 5:00 this evening. At 11:30 this evening I received an email back from them. It sounds promising. Other than the time to remove the board the only cost should I not go ahead with any repairs (or should the board not be repairable) is the return shipping. I was really impressed.
It sounds like you're a lot more of a professional (or at least close) than you are a hobbyist. lol
I appreciate all of your advice. I'll keep you posted.
Take Care,
Jeff
Hi VA-Sawyer,
Thanks for your input.
Jeff
CJ has given me some great advice. After getting the inital report on the Diversion, I spent some time looking at several machines... including the Everlast and the PrimeWeld (and even Yes). I also had been looking at the C-K MT-200. Long story short, it came down to the PrimeWeld and the C-K. The fact that Jody sells the C-K, and according to Garrett he has done quite a few videos using the C-K, it adds another comfort level to the purchase. I was told how warranty work is handled, and that was a real plus. And I hate to say it was too much of a consideration; but, the on-demand fan and the fact that fan noise was mentioned as a con with both PrimeWeld and Everlast... I'm working from my garage and there's not a lot of background noise, so the louder fan is something that would probably nag at me over time. And, I also thought it was a good thing to support Jody's company. It's on its way now, so... I probably shouldn't think about options other than C-K right now. lol Besides, a 200 A machine is probably all that I will ever need. And... I hate to say this; but, most of the inverter machines may not be intended to hang on as long as CJ's Dynasty.VA-Sawyer wrote: ↑Sat Dec 18, 2021 12:42 am No, 737 won't be replacing his Dynasty with a PrimeWeld. He is a pro level welder and can take advantage of everything the Dynasty offers. I'm nowhere near that skill level myself. I have a Neverlast 255EXT that is about 3.5 years old. It developed issues about 2 years ago, and I called customer support for help. They were less than useless, blamed all the welding issues on me. Seems odd that I had the skills to avoid the problems 6 months earlier, and then got too stupid weld. I opened up the welder, and found a number of issues, some of which I fixed. (See the thread 'Neverlast Lied Again') Bottom line...... Don't even consider buying Neverlast!
For somebody below 'expert level', I think the PrimeWeld is hard to beat. It is an even better deal when you look at the price. If my welder died tomorrow, would I buy a PrimeWeld? Sure would! It can do 90% of the work that I did with my Neverlast, maybe even 95%. The money that I save going PrimeWeld will be a LOT more than the money I would loose on the 10% that it can't do.
Maybe PW will bring out a 280 or 300 amp machine for $1200-1500. I can wish, can't I?
Thanks for your input.
Jeff
Besides, a 200 A machine is probably all that I will ever need.
[/quote]
Ha! There’s always going to come a time when you need more than 200 amps, but there are ways of getting by without it. I often snatch a buddy’s Dynasty 280 when I have to weld thicker aluminum, or snatch his PipePro 350 for thick steel. But I don’t encounter that need often enough to lay out the lettuce for an $18k gene-welder. That’s what friends are for
Hey Guys,
First of all... Merry Christmas to everyone.
Well... the PCB was sent to EIC for evaluation. The report back is that the board is separated and warped, and that solder tabs are blown out.
I was optimistic; but, now realize that the Miller machine is likely going to have to be scrapped. Pretty sad being that everything else about it is like new.
I received the C-K MT-200 right before leaving for an early Christmas with family. Back home now, I'll open the box today and maybe forget a little of the Miller sting from the Diversion. Garrett was really helpful putting up with my questions and then getting the machine shipped out on short notice.
I'll keep my eyes open on eBay for a board before I start parting out the Miller... just not going to wait too long. I really have a different opinion of Miller now, though. In my opinion, their product isn't bullet-proof, and when outside of repair, their pricing is insane. (The new C-K welder cost less than the price of a replacement board (without the installation cost). There were other great welders suggested by guys on this thread that were significantly less expensive than the C-K, too.) After the warranty period for any of the inverter-based machines, I guess I'm now of the opinion that they're really just a disposable commodity.
Take Care,
Jeff
First of all... Merry Christmas to everyone.
Well... the PCB was sent to EIC for evaluation. The report back is that the board is separated and warped, and that solder tabs are blown out.
I was optimistic; but, now realize that the Miller machine is likely going to have to be scrapped. Pretty sad being that everything else about it is like new.
I received the C-K MT-200 right before leaving for an early Christmas with family. Back home now, I'll open the box today and maybe forget a little of the Miller sting from the Diversion. Garrett was really helpful putting up with my questions and then getting the machine shipped out on short notice.
I'll keep my eyes open on eBay for a board before I start parting out the Miller... just not going to wait too long. I really have a different opinion of Miller now, though. In my opinion, their product isn't bullet-proof, and when outside of repair, their pricing is insane. (The new C-K welder cost less than the price of a replacement board (without the installation cost). There were other great welders suggested by guys on this thread that were significantly less expensive than the C-K, too.) After the warranty period for any of the inverter-based machines, I guess I'm now of the opinion that they're really just a disposable commodity.
Take Care,
Jeff
Hey Everyone,
I'm getting some time with the C-K MT-200 today. So far I really love it.
Let me know your opinions about whether or not I should start a new thread... still questions about my learning curve, so for now I will include them here.
1. One of the issues I keep fighting is wanting to more or less move the torch continuously rather than stop, dab with filler, move the puddle, stop... and repeat. I am more or less moving the torch all the time and timing the addition of filler. (Maybe I subconsciously stop the torch when I dab... but, it's not a case where I stop moving, then tell myself to dab.) Most of the videos I watch show a distinct stopping of the torch and then moving the filler rod for the dab. Jody seems to constantly be moving the torch. With his skill level, I'm sure he can do just about anything. Other videos online show a distinct stopping before dabbing. With me, I'm trying figure out if I need to take a timeout and work on starting and stopping, or if it's not a major problem.
2. If I need to work on starting and stopping, I'm wondering if anyone has used any kind of exercise to make this work. Maybe working the puddle without filler rod, or even just working the torch without juice?
3. Maintaining a consistent short arc isn't quite as tough as moving the torch; but, it is an issue at times. I'm trying to religiously follow the practice of directly watching the puddle. Then with my peripheral vision I'm watching the path I'm tracking, the arc length and other things that will affect the weld quality. I'm fighting watching the puddle and watching the arc length as I'm welding. Any words of wisdom on visuals for the arc length (like corona or metal temperature)?
Thanks,
Jeff
I'm getting some time with the C-K MT-200 today. So far I really love it.
Let me know your opinions about whether or not I should start a new thread... still questions about my learning curve, so for now I will include them here.
1. One of the issues I keep fighting is wanting to more or less move the torch continuously rather than stop, dab with filler, move the puddle, stop... and repeat. I am more or less moving the torch all the time and timing the addition of filler. (Maybe I subconsciously stop the torch when I dab... but, it's not a case where I stop moving, then tell myself to dab.) Most of the videos I watch show a distinct stopping of the torch and then moving the filler rod for the dab. Jody seems to constantly be moving the torch. With his skill level, I'm sure he can do just about anything. Other videos online show a distinct stopping before dabbing. With me, I'm trying figure out if I need to take a timeout and work on starting and stopping, or if it's not a major problem.
2. If I need to work on starting and stopping, I'm wondering if anyone has used any kind of exercise to make this work. Maybe working the puddle without filler rod, or even just working the torch without juice?
3. Maintaining a consistent short arc isn't quite as tough as moving the torch; but, it is an issue at times. I'm trying to religiously follow the practice of directly watching the puddle. Then with my peripheral vision I'm watching the path I'm tracking, the arc length and other things that will affect the weld quality. I'm fighting watching the puddle and watching the arc length as I'm welding. Any words of wisdom on visuals for the arc length (like corona or metal temperature)?
Thanks,
Jeff
one of the things i tend to do is make little circles with the torch (like mig manipulation) as the constant movement helps me.
i find it actually helps the weld joint when doing butt joints.
i find it actually helps the weld joint when doing butt joints.
tweak it until it breaks
Hi Jeff. With the technique of dabbing the best advice I could give is similar to what CJ already has made.
It is very possible that you are a bit tense and overthinking details. As you melt stuff it all falls in to place eventually and getting it wrong is the best way to get it going better. The experience gained is invaluable. I wouldn’t say try to stuff up, but don’t be scared of mistakes if it’s not damaging anything. If you are learning from them it’s all good. Relax, smile, melt stuff. And have a wonderful New year!
It is very possible that you are a bit tense and overthinking details. As you melt stuff it all falls in to place eventually and getting it wrong is the best way to get it going better. The experience gained is invaluable. I wouldn’t say try to stuff up, but don’t be scared of mistakes if it’s not damaging anything. If you are learning from them it’s all good. Relax, smile, melt stuff. And have a wonderful New year!
Hi Guys,
More advice, please.
I am really struggling with consistency. Maybe more my vision and coordination than anything else.
I know I am over-cooking the metal.
I'm running 65A at the machine and trying to regulate the heat with the pedal.
I'm doing my best to maintain 1/16" to 1/8" arc length; but, I'm having trouble watching the puddle and trying to keep an eye on the tungsten distance above the puddle.
The coupon is 1/16" (mild steel).
I guess the main question I'm struggling with is whether I should minimize the current (i.e. lower than 65A) and move slower or try to keep the current up and move faster. The faster I try to move the more prone I am to jam the filler into the tungsten. Ugh
This morning's welds weren't perfect; but, this afternoon it's like I took a huge step backwards.
(The pictures are of the same coupon.)
Thanks,
Jeff
More advice, please.
I am really struggling with consistency. Maybe more my vision and coordination than anything else.
I know I am over-cooking the metal.
I'm running 65A at the machine and trying to regulate the heat with the pedal.
I'm doing my best to maintain 1/16" to 1/8" arc length; but, I'm having trouble watching the puddle and trying to keep an eye on the tungsten distance above the puddle.
The coupon is 1/16" (mild steel).
I guess the main question I'm struggling with is whether I should minimize the current (i.e. lower than 65A) and move slower or try to keep the current up and move faster. The faster I try to move the more prone I am to jam the filler into the tungsten. Ugh
This morning's welds weren't perfect; but, this afternoon it's like I took a huge step backwards.
(The pictures are of the same coupon.)
Thanks,
Jeff
- Attachments
-
- Example 1 123121.JPG (60.43 KiB) Viewed 13099 times
-
- Example 2 123121.JPG (52.15 KiB) Viewed 13099 times
thats pretty normal. for me i find i take a break and come back to it and its a lot better.
as far as heat go, welding joints will tell you a lot more. get some bit of scrap and weld them together. make test joints, break them apart to see how they break.
welding thin material soon teaches you about amps and travel speed.
keep it up your doing fine, much better than me when i started.
tweak it until it breaks
Hi Tweak,
Thanks for the encouraging words.
At this point in time I'm not sure if I'm more determined or more obsessed. Lol
I may be wrong; but, thinking about what you said concerning thin metal has been what's driving me...
Thanks again for your thoughts. (BTW, I like your signature saying. I'm an engineer who believes in the saying, "if it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is". Lol)
Happy New Year to everyone.
Jeff
Thanks for the encouraging words.
At this point in time I'm not sure if I'm more determined or more obsessed. Lol
I may be wrong; but, thinking about what you said concerning thin metal has been what's driving me...
Thanks again for your thoughts. (BTW, I like your signature saying. I'm an engineer who believes in the saying, "if it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is". Lol)
Happy New Year to everyone.
Jeff
thats awesome 
Mate you are so close its not funny. You need to find a way to reduce heat slightly or increase filler. This is aparrent more in the fisheye at the end. 1/16 filler is theoretically the right filler. But if you change only one thing first try going 3/32 on the filler. It may work.......it always does for me. If I cant change hand speed or go much lower amps comfortably then I up the filler diameter.
Let us know how it goes.
Let us know how it goes.
Those “fish eyes” at the end of the weld aren’t necessarily related to the filler wire size but are more indicative of a technique flaw: snapping out of the weld.
As you approach the end of the weld, you need to “swirl” the torch or very slightly back step to avoid leaving these craters. You can also add 2x the amount of filler with a final dab just so long as you don’t crater the end.
Otherwise everything looks pretty darn good. I’m with Tweake, start welding joints. Joints teach much more about torch manipulation, heat input, and challenge your physical comfort. You’re plenty far along for flat welds, now start gluing two pieces together.
As you approach the end of the weld, you need to “swirl” the torch or very slightly back step to avoid leaving these craters. You can also add 2x the amount of filler with a final dab just so long as you don’t crater the end.
Otherwise everything looks pretty darn good. I’m with Tweake, start welding joints. Joints teach much more about torch manipulation, heat input, and challenge your physical comfort. You’re plenty far along for flat welds, now start gluing two pieces together.