If you want to really hear it sing, turn the frequency to 400 and the PPS to 500... It'll make you check to see if your ears are bleeding. Also, turn it down to 20 or so if you need to get that last little hit of heat to weld something too big for the machine! It's an interesting experiment!
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Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
exnailpounder
- exnailpounder
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Dec 25, 2014 9:25 am
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Location:near Chicago
I still think simply fusing the corners would look better. With thicker metal you can blend the corners with filler but with the thinner metal , the bead looks too thick but not my project so take it for what it's worth.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
To be honest I really haven't found a use for it yet. Just when I think it's making a positive difference, I go back to 120ish and it works just as well without making me feel like a dog hearing a dog whistle. It really tightens up the arc but it also penetrates deeper. So while it helped me narrow things down for the thin sheet joint, it also wanted to blow through easier. The pulser I found did a better job since I could also control the heat not just the frequency. Even on this stuff, you can puddle the joint and camp out on it all day taking your sweet time.Oscar wrote:That's a nice tight tack "bead"! I bet you're thrilled to have 400Hz AC Freq capability!
Oh dear lord... I'm never using 400hz again without ear plugs.GreinTime wrote:If you want to really hear it sing, turn the frequency to 400 and the PPS to 500... It'll make you check to see if your ears are bleeding. Also, turn it down to 20 or so if you need to get that last little hit of heat to weld something too big for the machine! It's an interesting experiment!
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I know what you mean but this thing will live outdoors and butthole birds will try to make nests on it so it needs some strength, plus the main reason I'm doing any of this is to learn so I use every opportunity to get more reps, especially since these will be long runs.exnailpounder wrote:I still think simply fusing the corners would look better. With thicker metal you can blend the corners with filler but with the thinner metal , the bead looks too thick but not my project so take it for what it's worth.
MotoEngineering
- MotoEngineering
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New Member
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Posts:
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Joined:Tue Mar 15, 2016 4:25 pm
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Location:Dublin, Ireland
Hi I make aluminium boxes out 40thou 6061 sheet of course I use 1'' x 1'' angle with a 1mm wall to frame the box then its easy to weld the edges together butt weld backed by the angle. Is there any reason you could not have even a 3/8 strip behind the joint tack this on first and then you would get a nice strong joint. I use pulse and a 3/32 filler rod as when you dip it really cools the pool. On the out side you could sit Aluminium or copper chill bars as heat sinks. Really this is an easy job if you have the right equipment. If you absolutely cannot have even a 40thou flat rib on the back just have some one hold a piece or clamp a piece of 1mm copper to the back of the joint and it will weld nicely. You need a tack at least every inch and let it cool. Do not try and run long beads but short stitches maybe 3 inches apart bottom, top, middle, then come back and fill in between. It's just all about sinking away the heat and spreading out the heat as you weld. There is actually a welding formula for this you can look up. Trying to do it with nothing at the back is making things very hard for yourself. Hope this helps. Regards Bert
Got it done! Not perfect but more than good enough relative to what I was hoping for. Thanks for all the suggestions guys! Made the curve radius shorter so I had a good long straight chunk to use a chill block on to get started.
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Thanks Richard! I settled at 120hz, 150pps, 30% on, 8%bg, tri wave, 1/16 5356. Torch is a flex currently in 9 configuration, 3/32 2%lanth with a 45 or more blunt taper and a gas lens at 13cfh. I had peak amps set at 120 but I'd only use full jam when I was starting a puddle while pushing a section of the curve down onto that big aluminum block.
Ready to mount. Pretty proud of it, first non-racing related project!
Ready to mount. Pretty proud of it, first non-racing related project!
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