For the features at $2k, you'll go far and wide to find a better performing machine. Let me know when you do...Deano56 wrote:Fronius is expensive for a 210 amp welder at 2K. Must be a long lasting machine. I guess that's what it takes to buy quality
mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
The cost of many of these higher priced welders isn't in the feature set as much as it is in the duty cycle. That's typically what you're buying, usually along with a few additional bells and whistles. It really comes down to what machine fits your needs without running you broke.Deano56 wrote:Fronius is expensive for a 210 amp welder at 2K. Must be a long lasting machine. I guess that's what it takes to buy quality
For instance, I was looking for a TIG welder some years back. A $1300 welder (Lincoln Square Wave) would have realistically done all the things I needed from a TIG welder all except... :drum roll: on occasion I'll have times where a job needs done and it needs a welder with 100% duty cycle so welds are non-stop. POW! Add $5000... Now, I still bought a 210A welder, but it's rated at 100% at 175A. How many times have I truly needed that in the past 4 years? 3 or 4... But, at those times, time is money and there was no time to wait around on a hot welder. A very different thing than a guy in his garage welding on the side or even a business where they don't do production work.
Do I like the welder I got? Sure. Did I spend extra for some extra toys? Yes. Would a guy in his basement be well served with what I got? Absolutely not.
I have a similar thread here about getting a MIG. In my case, I DO NOT need the additional duty cycle or amperage, so spending up does not make sense in this case FOR ME.
Get the one that does what you need and not a whole lot more or it can get expensive.
Yeah those PipeWorx rigs are the bomb!
I see a great many folks on here opine about duty cycle. I don't get it. I've run my Dynasty 200 at 180amps for 4 straight days on 240v power TIG welding. Never once did it burp. The fact is, you simply can't weld non-stop no matter what if you run manually. You either re-position, reload wire, grab more filler, another Stick, etc. Every few minutes you are resting which provides cycle time for the machine. Sure, the fan runs, but the power supply rolls on like a freight train.
I have also run my inexpensive Miller multi-process box on a job site for 6 weeks straight running 0.035 FC wire, 9 hours a day off local 220v gang boxes. Never a hitch. So in my experience, it's a spec not a reality. Like my MM200, the SW200 has a non-adjustable Postflow and to my recollection, the SW200 does not offer Lift Arc. Otherwise, its a decent TIG box. Me, I'll take the MM215/MM220 over a Lincoln MP based upon experience with the machines and impressions from running them.
I see a great many folks on here opine about duty cycle. I don't get it. I've run my Dynasty 200 at 180amps for 4 straight days on 240v power TIG welding. Never once did it burp. The fact is, you simply can't weld non-stop no matter what if you run manually. You either re-position, reload wire, grab more filler, another Stick, etc. Every few minutes you are resting which provides cycle time for the machine. Sure, the fan runs, but the power supply rolls on like a freight train.
I have also run my inexpensive Miller multi-process box on a job site for 6 weeks straight running 0.035 FC wire, 9 hours a day off local 220v gang boxes. Never a hitch. So in my experience, it's a spec not a reality. Like my MM200, the SW200 has a non-adjustable Postflow and to my recollection, the SW200 does not offer Lift Arc. Otherwise, its a decent TIG box. Me, I'll take the MM215/MM220 over a Lincoln MP based upon experience with the machines and impressions from running them.
I agree, it's quite difficult to hit duty cycle on any decent quality welder unless you are running right at it's absolute maximum amperage on a joint that somehow permits you to weld non-stop for 2-3 minutes without having to reposition, twist around, do this, do that.
or jerry rig a small insulated box, put the welder in there, and install a $300 window A/C unit to the side of the box to keep everything at 60°F. Betcha that will up the duty cycleBugHunter wrote: on occasion I'll have times where a job needs done and it needs a welder with 100% duty cycle so welds are non-stop. POW! Add $5000...
oh I'm not bashing the price, just realizing how much a good welding machine cost, mine is a China made machine and maybe I expect too much out of it, I like Everlast and the ESAB Rebel 215ic but couldn't justify spending for a welder I won't use but a few hours a month, I never heard of the machines you guys have until now. Believe it or not I mainly bought this to weld up my mandrel bends for my motorhome.cj737 wrote:For the features at $2k, you'll go far and wide to find a better performing machine. Let me know when you do...Deano56 wrote:Fronius is expensive for a 210 amp welder at 2K. Must be a long lasting machine. I guess that's what it takes to buy quality
The machine doesn’t make the weldor. You can weld nearly anything your heart desires with the machine you have, so put it to good use. Features and functions can’t overcome incompetence. Welding is a learned skill. Burn material, focus on the fundamentals, and practice. And by George, have fun doing it!Deano56 wrote: oh I'm not bashing the price, just realizing how much a good welding machine cost, mine is a China made machine and maybe I expect too much out of it, I like Everlast and the ESAB Rebel 215ic but couldn't justify spending for a welder I won't use but a few hours a month, I never heard of the machines you guys have until now. Believe it or not I mainly bought this to weld up my mandrel bends for my motorhome.
Ya don't say?cj737 wrote:I see a great many folks on here opine about duty cycle. I don't get it. I've run my Dynasty 200 at 180amps for 4 straight days on 240v power TIG welding. Never once did it burp.
So, you ran a welder at 180A (that's rated for 100% @ 175A) and you can't understand why people are worried about duty cycle?
I commented about why machines cost more, and I'm pretty sure what I said was largely accurate. Cheaper machines are not designed to run wide open, all day long, day in and day out. I've seen machines with duty cycles of 10% at the top end of the output. IOW, that machine really isn't designed to output that amperage under any circumstances. But the numbers sell welders and they need to call it a 200A so viola, say it's a 200A with almost no duty cycle. Easy.
If Miller rated the Dynasty 210 the way chi-com import machines get rated, They'd probably raise the "rev-limiter" on it, call it a 400A machine with 60% duty cycle at 210, 100% at 175. And nobody would even question it except to say it really isn't a quality 400A machine like the $15000 competitive machines. See where I am going with this? You used quite possibly the worst examples of welders to illustrate your point. Miller isn't exactly known for overrating their equipment. They WILL do what they say they will do, and you WILL pay for it.
No, in fact you are yet again wrong. The actual specs on my Dynasty are:BugHunter wrote:Ya don't say?cj737 wrote:I see a great many folks on here opine about duty cycle. I don't get it. I've run my Dynasty 200 at 180amps for 4 straight days on 240v power TIG welding. Never once did it burp.
So, you ran a welder at 180A (that's rated for 100% @ 175A) and you can't understand why people are worried about duty cycle?
See where I am going with this? You used quite possibly the worst examples of welders to illustrate your point. Miller isn't exactly known for overrating their equipment. They WILL do what they say they will do, and you WILL pay for it.
150 A at 16 V, 60% Duty Cycle (1 or 3-Phase)
140 A at 15.6 V, 40% Duty Cycle (115 VAC)
100 A at 14 V, 100% Duty Cycle (115 VAC)
So at 180 amps all day long, I am well outside the rating. And my MultiMatic 200 is rated for far less.
I’m reminded of a quote: “Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one’s mouth and confirm it.”
I'm not really interested in a pissing contest CJ, really. I offered an opinion to the guy which I consider largely correct, if not completely.cj737 wrote:No, in fact you are yet again wrong. The actual specs on my Dynasty are:
150 A at 16 V, 60% Duty Cycle (1 or 3-Phase)
140 A at 15.6 V, 40% Duty Cycle (115 VAC)
100 A at 14 V, 100% Duty Cycle (115 VAC)
So at 180 amps all day long, I am well outside the rating. And my MultiMatic 200 is rated for far less.
I’m reminded of a quote: “Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one’s mouth and confirm it.”
Here's a link to the Miller Website FROM TODAY showing specs of MY Dynasty 210DX. I see you cherrypicked the 110V input numbers. Here's the real numbers taken from page two of that document linked below. Mine is an early 2016 vintage machine and these were the specs I recalled when I bought it. Good memory, eh?
https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/mil ... nglish.pdf
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You quoted my statement which CLEARLY documented a 200DX, not a 210. Not your machine, but mine. Pay attention. Your responses will be more accurate. good memory? No, not really. Since it was a post moments before your reply and you couldn't/didn't remember the machine model. Cheery picked 115v? Again, PAY ATTENTION. The first line is 240v. Better yet, learn to read.BugHunter wrote:I'm not really interested in a pissing contest CJ, really. I offered an opinion to the guy which I consider largely correct, if not completely.cj737 wrote:No, in fact you are yet again wrong. The actual specs on my Dynasty are:
150 A at 16 V, 60% Duty Cycle (1 or 3-Phase)
140 A at 15.6 V, 40% Duty Cycle (115 VAC)
100 A at 14 V, 100% Duty Cycle (115 VAC)
So at 180 amps all day long, I am well outside the rating. And my MultiMatic 200 is rated for far less.
I’m reminded of a quote: “Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one’s mouth and confirm it.”
Here's a link to the Miller Website FROM TODAY showing specs of MY Dynasty 210DX. I see you cherrypicked the 110V input numbers. Here's the real numbers taken from page two of that document linked below. Mine is an early 2016 vintage machine and these were the specs I recalled when I bought it. Good memory, eh?
https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/mil ... nglish.pdf
thanks for the advice all of yoycj737 wrote:The machine doesn’t make the weldor. You can weld nearly anything your heart desires with the machine you have, so put it to good use. Features and functions can’t overcome incompetence. Welding is a learned skill. Burn material, focus on the fundamentals, and practice. And by George, have fun doing it!Deano56 wrote: oh I'm not bashing the price, just realizing how much a good welding machine cost, mine is a China made machine and maybe I expect too much out of it, I like Everlast and the ESAB Rebel 215ic but couldn't justify spending for a welder I won't use but a few hours a month, I never heard of the machines you guys have until now. Believe it or not I mainly bought this to weld up my mandrel bends for my motorhome.
I remembered the specs of my machine, which is all that matters to me. I don't have to remember the specs of yours. Regardless, ok, your machine specs are lower. Fine. You still exaggerated considerably with your statement. You may have run at 180A, but as your own statement pointed out, there is lots of downtime changing filler rods, moving parts, setting up, etc. 100% duty cycle ratings on these machines is based upon sticking your foot to the floor and leaving it there for 8 hours straight. Anything else needs de-rated for downtime. That still doesn't change the fact that the high $ machine brands build in some safety margin in their ratings, which is why they cost more, and why I said what I did.cj737 wrote:You quoted my statement which CLEARLY documented a 200DX, not a 210. Not your machine, but mine. Pay attention. Your responses will be more accurate. good memory? No, not really. Since it was a post moments before your reply and you couldn't/didn't remember the machine model. Cheery picked 115v? Again, PAY ATTENTION. The first line is 240v. Better yet, learn to read.
The point of my statement to you was, you took quite possibly the most expensive 200A machine on the planet, and used it as an example why not to worry about duty cycle, because you ran yours hard for a few days and it survived. The guy is trying to understand the disparity in price on various machines and what you said was misleading at best.
do you guys find a 10' or mine is 9' 6" long mig torch lead is long enough? I am modifying a 15' torch that is used for the Lincoln 200/250L; What I mean modifying is the insertion pin has a shoulder on it not allowing it to fully insert into my machine, I have a machine shop turning that down so it will fit my welder, it takes standard #2 Tweco consumables. This will surely help me under the motorhome hanging my exhaust pipes
I'll be lengthening my ground sometime also, it came with an 8' cablecj737 wrote:I use 25' SuperFlex hoses on all my machines (TIG). Nothing beats having a cable long enough to avoid moving the cart. Plus my ground cable is 25'.
I have 10ft MIG torch on my 200A MIGs, a 12 ft on my 300A MIG, and it's sufficient most of the time, but I just recently started working with an overseas manufacturer/vendor and they're custom making me some awesome MIG gun replacements. 6 meter long cables, with a carbon-graphite liner, which is both very hard for wear resistance and is ultra slick to minimize drag on the wire on such a long trip. I hope to have them here in a couple weeks.Deano56 wrote:do you guys find a 10' or mine is 9' 6" long mig torch lead is long enough? I am modifying a 15' torch that is used for the Lincoln 200/250L; What I mean modifying is the insertion pin has a shoulder on it not allowing it to fully insert into my machine, I have a machine shop turning that down so it will fit my welder, it takes standard #2 Tweco consumables. This will surely help me under the motorhome hanging my exhaust pipes
Oscar wrote:I have 10ft MIG torch on my 200A MIGs, a 12 ft on my 300A MIG, and it's sufficient most of the time, but I just recently started working with an overseas manufacturer/vendor and they're custom making me some awesome MIG gun replacements. 6 meter long cables, with a carbon-graphite liner, which is both very hard for wear resistance and is ultra slick to minimize drag on the wire on such a long trip. I hope to have them here in a couple weeks.Deano56 wrote:do you guys find a 10' or mine is 9' 6" long mig torch lead is long enough? I am modifying a 15' torch that is used for the Lincoln 200/250L; What I mean modifying is the insertion pin has a shoulder on it not allowing it to fully insert into my machine, I have a machine shop turning that down so it will fit my welder, it takes standard #2 Tweco consumables. This will surely help me under the motorhome hanging my exhaust pipes
I'm just hoping my single powered roller feeder will push the wire throughOscar wrote:I have 10ft MIG torch on my 200A MIGs, a 12 ft on my 300A MIG, and it's sufficient most of the time, but I just recently started working with an overseas manufacturer/vendor and they're custom making me some awesome MIG gun replacements. 6 meter long cables, with a carbon-graphite liner, which is both very hard for wear resistance and is ultra slick to minimize drag on the wire on such a long trip. I hope to have them here in a couple weeks.Deano56 wrote:do you guys find a 10' or mine is 9' 6" long mig torch lead is long enough? I am modifying a 15' torch that is used for the Lincoln 200/250L; What I mean modifying is the insertion pin has a shoulder on it not allowing it to fully insert into my machine, I have a machine shop turning that down so it will fit my welder, it takes standard #2 Tweco consumables. This will surely help me under the motorhome hanging my exhaust pipes
Mine do. I already tested it with a Teflon 18ft liner. Surprisingly, the drag, when pulling a piece of MIG wire through them by hand, feels about the same through 10 ft of wire through a 10 ft steel liner as does 18 ft of wire through a 18 ft Teflon liner (which isn't as slick as a carbon-graphite liner). So then I tested the MIG with the 18 ft liner attached, and lo and behold, it pushed it just fine without needing to use extra drive roll tension! I highly recommend you switch to at least a Teflon liner. I might even be able to have a custom-made 15ft carbon-graphite liner made for you if you'd like me to ask the vendor.Deano56 wrote:I'm just hoping my single powered roller feeder will push the wire throughOscar wrote:I have 10ft MIG torch on my 200A MIGs, a 12 ft on my 300A MIG, and it's sufficient most of the time, but I just recently started working with an overseas manufacturer/vendor and they're custom making me some awesome MIG gun replacements. 6 meter long cables, with a carbon-graphite liner, which is both very hard for wear resistance and is ultra slick to minimize drag on the wire on such a long trip. I hope to have them here in a couple weeks.Deano56 wrote:do you guys find a 10' or mine is 9' 6" long mig torch lead is long enough? I am modifying a 15' torch that is used for the Lincoln 200/250L; What I mean modifying is the insertion pin has a shoulder on it not allowing it to fully insert into my machine, I have a machine shop turning that down so it will fit my welder, it takes standard #2 Tweco consumables. This will surely help me under the motorhome hanging my exhaust pipes
Yours aren't single roller, are they? 1 powered roller on top of 1 idler roller? My little Millermatic 175 is like that and it doesn't feed well at all.Oscar wrote:Mine do. I already tested it with a Teflon 18ft liner. Surprisingly, the drag, when pulling a piece of MIG wire through them by hand, feels about the same through 10 ft of wire through a 10 ft steel liner as does 18 ft of wire through a 18 ft Teflon liner (which isn't as slick as a carbon-graphite liner). So then I tested the MIG with the 18 ft liner attached, and lo and behold, it pushed it just fine without needing to use extra drive roll tension! I highly recommend you switch to at least a Teflon liner. I might even be able to have a custom-made 15ft carbon-graphite liner made for you if you'd like me to ask the vendor.Deano56 wrote:I'm just hoping my single powered roller feeder will push the wire throughOscar wrote: I have 10ft MIG torch on my 200A MIGs, a 12 ft on my 300A MIG, and it's sufficient most of the time, but I just recently started working with an overseas manufacturer/vendor and they're custom making me some awesome MIG gun replacements. 6 meter long cables, with a carbon-graphite liner, which is both very hard for wear resistance and is ultra slick to minimize drag on the wire on such a long trip. I hope to have them here in a couple weeks.
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Thanks allot for the offer but I'll hold off untill I see how it feeds. Mine is the roller like you said and seems to feed well but, pulling the wire out of the gun today I noticed markings on it, must have came set up for flux core, maybe why it's feeding as it should. I believe solid wire is supposed to be v- groove. I brought this thing inside the basement today to look things over more closely and possibly changing to a better power cord that's flexible, cheap cord got pretty stuff today at 18F. Being under warranty I'll wait. I did look it over closely and see flaws in the powder coating even, some blistering lol, it's only a month old and the gun bezel is cracked. Wonderful QC! I'll never pass this down to my grandson.
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