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AKweldshop wrote:
MinnesotaDave wrote:
AKweldshop wrote: That's great man!!

Anything to keep them from playing video games and snorting drugs...

As to the rods, I may be wrong, as I'm not familiar with UK practices, But no "real" welding job uses 6013.....Period. Its all XX10 and XX18.

Not used for anything but farmer scab jobs, ( DAVE!) :D :) ;) :lol: Easy now....
In this thread about a leaking transformer the WPS specifies 6013 or 7014 (post #9 and #12)
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?31 ... ormer+6013

This guy uses mostly 6013 on pipe :)
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?19 ... highlight=

Not sure why you can't make good welds with it?? :o :D
This just will never end.... :roll:
I can't believe it....

Carry on in peace.

John
You don't seem to understand that it has a use - not even when shown to you.
As a result, it likely will never end for you - especially when you say stuff like "has no use...period."
Dave J.

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Split the seal on another box of 6013. A neighbor had it in his shed and has no use for it.

First thing tomorrow I will run a few beads at different speeds/amps then post them up for crits. I would like to get more feedback on what I am doing right/wrong.

Thanks
Andy
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I'm still thinking that pipefitters rods are of extreme quality compared to our rods...

I don't use them, my personal preference, and I'm sorry for trying to shove it on the rest of you...
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.

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AKweldshop wrote:I'm still thinking that pipefitters rods are of extreme quality compared to our rods...

I don't use them, my personal preference, and I'm sorry for trying to shove it on the rest of you...
I didn't take your advice that way. If I had found a pack of 7018 today, that would be on the menu tomorrow.

Will keep an eye out, meantime appreciate your input. 8-)
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Progress today, 6013 @ 90A... let me know what's wrong :) thanks, Andy

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Your movements are much too large, slow down and build up some metal.

Keep after it :)
Dave J.

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MinnesotaDave wrote:Your movements are much too large, slow down and build up some metal.

Keep after it :)
Thanks Dave, will try the other half of the pad tomorrow.
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Maybe too big a step?
Or is that "normal" for these?

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79jasper wrote:Maybe too big a step?
Or is that "normal" for these?

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No it Is not normal.

Here is the last bead of a 3 pass weld.
I don't use 6013 very often, but ran out of wire and other rods, so I used what was left.
This was AC, 1/8" rod, about 135 amps.
image.jpg
image.jpg (84.95 KiB) Viewed 1322 times
Dave J.

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Oh nice, so would I be "correct" in saying it stacks like 7024, but goes on like 6010?
If I had the money, I would trade some 7018 for those 6013's, for shipping. But I'm already in the hole. Lol

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79jasper wrote:Oh nice, so would I be "correct" in saying it stacks like 7024, but goes on like 6010?
If I had the money, I would trade some 7018 for those 6013's, for shipping. But I'm already in the hole. Lol

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I just weld it the same as I do 7018 and 7014 - enough amps to drag with the flux touching the plate - especially true in fillet welds.

My normal drag angle is 5 - 15 degrees, sometimes just straight in.

The rods are nothing special - Washington Alloy from my local hardware store at $2 per pound.
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Oh, I see.
I'll have to grab some and play with them at school one day.

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MinnesotaDave wrote:
79jasper wrote:Oh nice, so would I be "correct" in saying it stacks like 7024, but goes on like 6010?
If I had the money, I would trade some 7018 for those 6013's, for shipping. But I'm already in the hole. Lol

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
I just weld it the same as I do 7018 and 7014 - enough amps to drag with the flux touching the plate - especially true in fillet welds.

My normal drag angle is 5 - 15 degrees, sometimes just straight in.

The rods are nothing special - Washington Alloy from my local hardware store at $2 per pound.
Ok Dave, I am avoiding touching the work with the rod but trying to maintain the smallest arc gap possible. Can I touch down with this rod after its started? do I need to push (feed the rod in) ? Thanks
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Slowed right down and tried not to pause...

6013 @ 90A, DCEP.

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Negativ3 wrote:
MinnesotaDave wrote:
79jasper wrote:Oh nice, so would I be "correct" in saying it stacks like 7024, but goes on like 6010?
If I had the money, I would trade some 7018 for those 6013's, for shipping. But I'm already in the hole. Lol

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
I just weld it the same as I do 7018 and 7014 - enough amps to drag with the flux touching the plate - especially true in fillet welds.

My normal drag angle is 5 - 15 degrees, sometimes just straight in.

The rods are nothing special - Washington Alloy from my local hardware store at $2 per pound.
Ok Dave, I am avoiding touching the work with the rod but trying to maintain the smallest arc gap possible. Can I touch down with this rod after its started? do I need to push (feed the rod in) ? Thanks
With your 7018 you can lightly scrape the flux on the plate, if it sticks doing that then the amps are likely too low.
If I run an arc gap, it's only about 1/16" or so.

I don't really push on the rod, I just run hot and let it burn, constantly feeding it in as it will take it - provided you are following the rule of thumb of never trying to weld metal thinner than the rod.
Dave J.

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Negativ3 wrote:Slowed right down and tried not to pause...

6013 @ 90A, DCEP.

Image

Closeup
Image
That is looking much better :)

Looks a little cold though - I'd like to see it flow out wetter on the sides, if this is 3/32" rods, try 95 or 100 amps and see how that feels.

Keep at it and have fun :D
Dave J.

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MinnesotaDave wrote:
That is looking much better :)

Looks a little cold though - I'd like to see it flow out wetter on the sides, if this is 3/32" rods, try 95 or 100 amps and see how that feels.

Keep at it and have fun :D
Ran a few at 100A, yes it is 3/32" rods. How does it look? Know I need to work on rod angle and travel speed.

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Coming along very well - it's all just practice from here :)
Dave J.

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You can drag 6013 rod just the same way you would 7018. your beads are looking good. work on consistency.
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MinnesotaDave wrote:Coming along very well - it's all just practice from here :)
Dave's advice is what I recommend at the moment... You have the basics down. Stop putting heavy stock in outside advice, and practice what you've learned so far. Pay attention, as you now know what to look for, what's right and what's not.

Once you're comfortable padding beads and making them all look the same, then ask more questions.

Remember, "If it were easy, everyone would be doing it!"

Steve S
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Otto Nobedder wrote:
MinnesotaDave wrote:Coming along very well - it's all just practice from here :)
Dave's advice is what I recommend at the moment... You have the basics down. Stop putting heavy stock in outside advice, and practice what you've learned so far. Pay attention, as you now know what to look for, what's right and what's not.

Once you're comfortable padding beads and making them all look the same, then ask more questions.

Remember, "If it were easy, everyone would be doing it!"

Steve S
Thanks Steve.
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