BillE.Dee wrote:Nice, Buggy. Are you back to building and trying to wear out that hammer ... AGAIN?
That hammer better out live me!
No thankfully no big jobs of those things. I had a few though that were stainless steel and that was plenty of them. I can probably assemble 25 aluminum ones in the time it took to do those four stainless ones.
Last edited by BugHunter on Wed Sep 02, 2020 10:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
cj737 wrote:For all the money you’ve spent on those super duper MIG machines, you need to dial up the heat. The interior welds on your legs are stone cold.
I kept them cold on purpose so things don't shift on me. The chop saw will not make that table collapse, so it's all good.
Sure you did. No welder ever intentionally lays cold beads on a finished product. They would either properly tack it, or weld it properly.
You are correct. I'm not a welder. I work at a middle school. I never said I was a welder. I just like to weld as a hobby
I bought a Hero 8 Black and hate it. Rarely use the thing.
I need a gimbal mount for in the car, something to eliminate vibration. Mine is useless using the mounts that came in the kit due to shaking so much and no motion stabilization in the camera.
Consider starting an account on BitChute for videos. I gave up on YT both due to the ridiculous requirements for login (their own browser won't allow me to log in (chrome) ) and the fact that I can't navigate the site on a mobile device. The clicking on everything you touch is so infuriating, I mean I can't even scroll the page without the (*&$% thing opening a video I did't want to see.
LtBadd wrote:What! Please explain, certainly it has IS
Nope...
If you want IS you have to buy a gimbal gizmo that's an additional several C notes. The camera mounts on this gizmo and then it's got 3 axis gyroscopic stabilization just like the cameras on a drone.
BugHunter wrote:I bought a Hero 8 Black and hate it. Rarely use the thing.
Yeah, they definitely have their limitations. I've had a few of the Hero 3 and the Hero 7. Never looked for an IS feature on them, but a bit surprised they don't have it. You could probably just add IS when editing the videos, which I have done on occasion.
LtBadd wrote:What! Please explain, certainly it has IS
Nope...
If you want IS you have to buy a gimbal gizmo that's an additional several C notes. The camera mounts on this gizmo and then it's got 3 axis gyroscopic stabilization just like the cameras on a drone.
From the gopro website
Screenshot 2020-09-16 181726.jpg (15.74 KiB) Viewed 4665 times
I bought it with that in mind but I can tell you the videos with it mounted in my car are unwatchable. And that is using the hero 8 black kit mounting hardware.
BugHunter wrote:I bought it with that in mind but I can tell you the videos with it mounted in my car are unwatchable. And that is using the hero 8 black kit mounting hardware.
Try the warp stabilizer in After Effects (Adobe). That'll fix that no problem.
BugHunter wrote:I bought it with that in mind but I can tell you the videos with it mounted in my car are unwatchable. And that is using the hero 8 black kit mounting hardware.
Buggy, I know what ya got and I know what it can do...... is the bad effects prior to rotation for lift off or after takeoff ???
BillE.Dee wrote:Buggy, I know what ya got and I know what it can do...... is the bad effects prior to rotation for lift off or after takeoff ???
I wish it was only when when I'm getting on it, but it's bad even driving on smooth straight highway.
Someday I'll get one of the gimbal things and it'll solve it. But it's got several other problems for which I'd just as soon have an older 1080p model that didn't intentionally reduce the quality of the 1080 video like this does. They do that in software to make people think that without 4k, there's just nowhere near enough image quality... It's marketing bs.
BillE.Dee wrote:Buggy, I know what ya got and I know what it can do...... is the bad effects prior to rotation for lift off or after takeoff ???
I wish it was only when when I'm getting on it, but it's bad even driving on smooth straight highway.
Someday I'll get one of the gimbal things and it'll solve it. But it's got several other problems for which I'd just as soon have an older 1080p model that didn't intentionally reduce the quality of the 1080 video like this does. They do that in software to make people think that without 4k, there's just nowhere near enough image quality... It's marketing bs.
People also tend to think that things like 1080 and 4k imply that they will get the same HD image quality that they see elsewhere at those settings. In reality, those numbers only indicate a pixel count and do not speak to the actual "quality" of the images. The size/quality of the sensor and quality of the lenses are also huge factors. Additionally, vendors are starting to do a lot of software interpolation of the images to get the resolution numbers higher, i.e., they will take an image from a 720p sensor and use software to artificially stretch it out to 1080 or 4k, essentially just fabricating the pixels to make up the difference in size. Marketing BS at it's finest. But technically they are not lying. The camera is in fact producing a 4k image, just only with one-6th the amount of "real" pixels.
Spartan wrote:
People also tend to think that things like 1080 and 4k imply that they will get the same HD image quality that they see elsewhere at those settings. In reality, those numbers only indicate a pixel count and do not speak to the actual "quality" of the images. The size/quality of the sensor and quality of the lenses are also huge factors. Additionally, vendors are starting to do a lot of software interpolation of the images to get the resolution numbers higher, i.e., they will take an image from a 720p sensor and use software to artificially stretch it out to 1080 or 4k, essentially just fabricating the pixels to make up the difference in size. Marketing BS at it's finest. But technically they are not lying. The camera is in fact producing a 4k image, just only with one-6th the amount of "real" pixels.
Agree, a hardware solution is almost always better then a software solution. So many cell phones images look great on the small cell phone screen, but when viewed on a (larger) monitor quickly fall down, admittedly though the newest phones have improved quite a bit.
Transformer stand. Apparently one transformer will slide underneath and another will sit on top. About 43" tall. 2" square tubing, 11ga wall. 1/4" thick plate for the top. Asked the customer if they would like to save some money if I could re-use some old jig plates for the top, and they were quite agreeable to that. That's why you may notice some grind marks on the bottom of the top plate.
Intended to only do the tack-up with TIG, but wound up running TIG on everything. Because TIG rocks!
Spartan wrote:Transformer stand. Apparently one transformer will slide underneath and another will sit on top. About 43" tall. 2" square tubing, 11ga wall. 1/4" thick plate for the top. Asked the customer if they would like to save some money if I could re-use some old jig plates for the top, and they were quite agreeable to that. That's why you may notice some grind marks on the bottom of the top plate.
Intended to only do the tack-up with TIG, but wound up running TIG on everything. Because TIG rocks!
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As a TIG newbie I’m trying to learn as much as I can.
One of the challenges I face is moving too slow.
Videos tend to be sped up so getting a real sense of speed and timing is hard.
@spartan not sure what the right terminology is but how quick are you moving on the welds?
DavidR8 wrote:As a TIG newbie I’m trying to learn as much as I can.
One of the challenges I face is moving too slow.
Videos tend to be sped up so getting a real sense of speed and timing is hard.
@spartan not sure what the right terminology is but how quick are you moving on the welds?
I try to move absolutely as fast as the puddle will allow, so long as it is whetting in nicely. But sometimes it's not always quite fast enough. As you can see in the pic of the bolt-down foot for the leg. Was doing those welds with a torch switch and out of position, so it was a bit slow. The result is a fine weld, but a bit grey and dull looking.
When you think you're moving fast enough, strive to move even faster. So long as you're getting good puddle whetting and penetration into the root. That's most important.
DavidR8 wrote:As a TIG newbie I’m trying to learn as much as I can.
One of the challenges I face is moving too slow.
Videos tend to be sped up so getting a real sense of speed and timing is hard.
@spartan not sure what the right terminology is but how quick are you moving on the welds?
I try to move absolutely as fast as the puddle will allow, so long as it is whetting in nicely. But sometimes it's not always quite fast enough. As you can see in the pic of the bolt-down foot for the leg. Was doing those welds with a torch switch and out of position, so it was a bit slow. The result is a fine weld, but a bit grey and dull looking.
When you think you're moving fast enough, strive to move even faster. So long as you're getting good puddle whetting and penetration into the root. That's most important.
Do you find that moving fast leaves too sharp of a tail/teardrop at the rear of the puddle?
Oscar wrote:
Do you find that moving fast leaves too sharp of a tail/teardrop at the rear of the puddle?
I think it can, especially if you're moving fast, hot, and not making pronounced pauses with the torch. I think the biggest part of getting that crisp, circular dab stack is making sure to have that marked and even pause duration with the torch at set intervals as you dab. So it may not necessarily be only speed/heat dependent, but more dab frequency and duration dependent relative to speed.
So considering my pic above of the tubing tri-joint, there is just a bit of a teardrop shape to the puddles there, but to me it is minimal and acceptable. If completely circular dabs were needed I would probably look at doing a pulse configuration, but that's just me.
DavidR8 wrote:As a TIG newbie I’m trying to learn as much as I can.
One of the challenges I face is moving too slow.
Videos tend to be sped up so getting a real sense of speed and timing is hard.
@spartan not sure what the right terminology is but how quick are you moving on the welds?
I try to move absolutely as fast as the puddle will allow, so long as it is whetting in nicely. But sometimes it's not always quite fast enough. As you can see in the pic of the bolt-down foot for the leg. Was doing those welds with a torch switch and out of position, so it was a bit slow. The result is a fine weld, but a bit grey and dull looking.
When you think you're moving fast enough, strive to move even faster. So long as you're getting good puddle whetting and penetration into the root. That's most important.
Thanks Spartan,
I think I need to get more hood time on thicker stock.
Currently I’m using 1/8” with 1/16 filler.
DavidR8 wrote:Thanks Spartan,
I think I need to get more hood time on thicker stock.
Currently I’m using 1/8” with 1/16 filler.
I think there is tremendous value in practicing on larger and thicker stock. Check your local scrap yards. To me, it's a bit regrettable that so many firms are advertising these 6" coupons, 1/16" and 1/8" thick, to people just learning to TIG. They just saturate with heat so quickly...good for advanced practice, but not a lot of value there when trying to learn.
The chop saw will not make that table collapse, so it's all good.
Rarely use the thing.
) and the fact that I can't navigate the site on a mobile device. The clicking on everything you touch is so infuriating, I mean I can't even scroll the page without the (*&$% thing opening a video I did't want to see. 
