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scotch briteing tungsten?
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http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18347

This is a 3d Printed tungsten grinder that has 4 fixed positions for the various tungsten sizes.

Per Jag (the designer):
This is an attachment for a dremel or similar tool that makes it easy to grind tungsten electrodes for TIG welding.

It has holes for 1/16", 3/32" and 1/8" electrodes at 4 different angles.

I'm using it now on my dremel using the "TEMO 10p solid 1.5" 40mm Diamond Coated Cutoff wheel disc 1/8 shk for dremel" I found on Amazon per one of the users' who tried this thing out. It does a nice job at grinding the tip down and the fixed positions ensure your tungsten never jumps off the grinder! WIth the 6 discs it gives you, you can have a separate wheel for almost all the material/rod you'll be working with. Pretty snazzy!

Here's a user's thread on here that used this:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=5&t=8813

I'll be playing around with the results from a clockwise vs. counter-clockwise twist to see if my random question about the hemispheres of the earth playing a part in the arc control but I could never test that theory without a tungsten grinder, and with this I didn't spend $300-800 on one ;) Yeah probably thinkin too deep on the hemispheres but it clearly changes the way hurricanes twist so it's something else for me to play with. It's called Coriolis force in case you forgot ( I did).
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I was thinking about trying that as a temporary fix since I have a dremel, diamond cut off disc and arbor and 3d printer. I guess I don't have a reason not to now. It needs an opening to cut off the ends of the tungsten when you have been dipping in the aluminum weld. We have a couple of the tech south ones at work and they seem to work pretty good. I just am not sure about dropping the $200 right now. I like the handheld sharpeners because you don't have to get up to go sharpen. I'm lazy, err I mean efficient.
-Jon

I learned how to weld at night, but not last night. (despite how my weld looks)

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You can make the cut yourself, or even add a groove at the top so you can use the thingy as a fulcrum. You'd have a slight angle but eh, it's not $200+! If you add a hole at the bottom, you might get a straight cut if you do it right and use the gap between the disc and thingy to your advantage but still might need that slight groove at the top....

For a basic grinder it's pretty nice and much more consistent than a bench wheel. I did offset mine with the Dremel pistol grip which put the thing at a good height otherwise the electrode guides would put the electrode at the center of the wheel and be sliced in half, at a slight angle. I have a different dremel model then he based his off of so there might be some reason to that but that's how development works!
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When I was doing aerospace, I got into the habit of buffing my tungsten with either a scotchbrite wheel or just a sheet of scotchbrite. I'd always go with the grain, just like sharpening it. Does it really make a difference? At low amps, I'd say it does- at high amps, only if it's really dirty. But, I'm anal about cleanliness on everything I weld, so I like to have my tungsten nice and pretty too.
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entity-unknown wrote:ABS is a plastic that originates from natural stuff.
PVC is more chemically originated and is cholorinated.

ABS is generally safer for you and the materials it comes in with contact with since it is not made with oxidizers.

PVC is made with cholorinated and and oxidized agents and is generally unsafe when heated especially the gases.

If you're going to go the hardware store route to build your own rod holders, you should go with ABS over PVC but there are other plastics available such as PET(E) which is a food grade plastic and likely safer than ABS or PVC for storing rods. :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yi3erdgVVTw
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Hmm a not so clever or tactful not so smart ass. Must be a new troll :)

P.S. PET(E) is what your clear rod cases are made of ;)

WeldDakota! It helped me out and gave some consistently blatant different results. Not night and day, but more like Noon to dusk difference...
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entity-unknown wrote:Hmm a not so clever or tactful not so smart ass. Must be a new troll :)

P.S. PET(E) is what your clear rod cases are made of ;)

WeldDakota! It helped me out and gave some consistently blatant different results. Not night and day, but more like Noon to dusk difference...
Yeah, that's about what I'd say it is. Besides, it just looks better on you having all of them clean and pretty. :P
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