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nelson
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    Sun Jul 17, 2016 1:21 pm
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    near philly

Hi,
in another post I brought up using p20 filler to repair molds of the same alloy...I don't think that's what I should do though.
I make molds for low abrasion plastics so hard isn't necessary. If I use p20 wire and do a good job repairing damage to a mold, the next thing I'll do is remove the hair from my head. In handfulls. I did Jody's light up test on some p20 and it gets to like 65C Rockwell. I only do rotary mold build (and repair). Even with carbide running at 40,000 rpm I won't get where I'm trying to get.

So the question I should ask is what filler should I use that's compatible and doesn't harden up too much? I can cut up to maybe 52C but forget about 60C and up. I only have a muffle furnace and no time so annealing and rehardening is not an option.

Thanks for putting up with this newbie!
Stone knives and bearskins.....and a NEW EVERLAST 164SI !!!
That's my newly shared work welder.
At home I got a Power Tig 185 DV. Nice, but no plasma cutting... Nice tight arc after a second.
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nelson wrote:Hi,
in another post I brought up using p20 filler to repair molds of the same alloy
In my replay to your other post either of the companies should be able to answer your question.

HTH
Richard
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kblenker#22
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    Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:23 pm
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    Amherst, Wi

http://www.crownalloys.com/TechSheet/TO ... e)_PWP.pdf

this one says 34-36 as welded. you can easily get it from welding supplies from ioc.
nelson
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    Sun Jul 17, 2016 1:21 pm
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    near philly

Thanks KB. Thats very helpful. P20 mold steel in the condition ive seen it is 40C so thats a good bet.

There are sooo many options to do tiny welding I'm finding. I have some cap discharge units I've just realized could be used for welding (possibly).
Stone knives and bearskins.....and a NEW EVERLAST 164SI !!!
That's my newly shared work welder.
At home I got a Power Tig 185 DV. Nice, but no plasma cutting... Nice tight arc after a second.
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