Right now I'm using a 26 air cooled torch that came with the unit. I got a gas lens kit with it and that seems to be working ok. I even have my tig finger! The problem I have is that with the gas lens and the cup, the torch is so big I have to really contort my hand in order to rest and get a good angle. The tig finger ends up being in a position such that I really can't use it in the way I see Jody doing it. I end up with just the tip of my finger touching the piece as I move along.
On top of all this, there are all the dang numbers! 9, 17, 26... (At least with Glocks, their numbers don't make sense either but they have a handy table on their website that explains it. But I digress...) Then you have 2 series and 3 series collets, short ones, long ones... Stubby lens kits, regular lens kits... Somehow I see a large box full of parts in my future...
Jody had a video I thought that he went thru the different torch types but for the life of me I can't find it. Did find the one with the CK flex head... That looks like the ticket... but do I get a 9 or 17? What's the diff?
What I'm really looking for is a small length torch from the handle to the end of the cup so I can get a decent hand rest using the tig finger. Might get a water cooled one some day but after buying all these other parts, gonna have to figure a way to sneak that into the house...
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
PaterNovem
- PaterNovem
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PaterNovem
- PaterNovem
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Right after I post I find Jody's vid I've been looking for... Still a bit confused, especially on the different hardware pieces, such as stubby lens, insulator size / length...
If this was easy, everyone would do it...
If this was easy, everyone would do it...
Save your life; turn off your TV.
- MosquitoMoto
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http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig ... rches.html
Here's a link.
I feel your pain. My machine came standard with a giant size 26 torch....not only is the torch huge, but the cables are like a garden hose full of lead. Just awful.
I swapped over to a size 17 torch with a stubby gas lens and lightweight hoses....can honestly say I have never picked up my size 26 torch since! So much better.
Be aware that air cooled size 26 and size 17 torches use the same sized hardware, so you don't have to be buying tons of different stuff. Oh, and hardware for the air cooled size 9 and liquid cooled size 20 is the same size, too.
Trust me, if you don't often do long welding runs above, say, 175 amps, you will love a size 17.
EDIT - I did some aluminium work recently, a whole project at around 200 amps but only short runs - welds a few inches long at a time. Used the size 17 torch and never gave it a second thought, although I imagine that sustained use at those amps might cause problems of the melty kind.
Kym
Here's a link.
I feel your pain. My machine came standard with a giant size 26 torch....not only is the torch huge, but the cables are like a garden hose full of lead. Just awful.
I swapped over to a size 17 torch with a stubby gas lens and lightweight hoses....can honestly say I have never picked up my size 26 torch since! So much better.
Be aware that air cooled size 26 and size 17 torches use the same sized hardware, so you don't have to be buying tons of different stuff. Oh, and hardware for the air cooled size 9 and liquid cooled size 20 is the same size, too.
Trust me, if you don't often do long welding runs above, say, 175 amps, you will love a size 17.
EDIT - I did some aluminium work recently, a whole project at around 200 amps but only short runs - welds a few inches long at a time. Used the size 17 torch and never gave it a second thought, although I imagine that sustained use at those amps might cause problems of the melty kind.
Kym
Here is a good video from CK going through the different sizes and numbers.
https://youtu.be/ZNjhCZRfLio
The most common ones you will run into are the following.
9 (gas cooled) and 20 (water cooled) use 2-series hardware.
17 (gas cooled), 26 (gas cooled), and 18 use 3-series hardware.
The Flex Lok swivel head torch can be had with either a 2-series or 3-series head. You can also buy the heads separately and interchange them.
A stubby gas lens is nothing more than a 2-series gas lens that threads into a 3-series head. The 3-series gas lens is pretty big. The 2-series gas lens and cups can cut down the length of the head a good bit.
Note that the 2-series and 3-series designations are mostly a CK thing. All of their parts lists also show the more common legacy part numbers. For example, the CK part number for a 2-series gas lens for 1/16" tungsten is 2GL116. The more common legacy part number for that item is 45V43 and is what is more likely to be found on all other manufacturer's gas lenses.
Finally, I don't think you will need a drawer full of parts. If you stick with a gas cooled torch, a flex head 17 with a superflex cable would probably be the most versatile for you. I would suggest picking up stubby gas lenses with the correct insulator for 1/16" and 3/32" tungsten sizes and some #7 and #8 cups. That will get you going on steel and aluminum. If you plan to do a lot of stainless or titanium, check back here and we can guide you on picking up the parts.
https://youtu.be/ZNjhCZRfLio
The most common ones you will run into are the following.
9 (gas cooled) and 20 (water cooled) use 2-series hardware.
17 (gas cooled), 26 (gas cooled), and 18 use 3-series hardware.
The Flex Lok swivel head torch can be had with either a 2-series or 3-series head. You can also buy the heads separately and interchange them.
A stubby gas lens is nothing more than a 2-series gas lens that threads into a 3-series head. The 3-series gas lens is pretty big. The 2-series gas lens and cups can cut down the length of the head a good bit.
Note that the 2-series and 3-series designations are mostly a CK thing. All of their parts lists also show the more common legacy part numbers. For example, the CK part number for a 2-series gas lens for 1/16" tungsten is 2GL116. The more common legacy part number for that item is 45V43 and is what is more likely to be found on all other manufacturer's gas lenses.
Finally, I don't think you will need a drawer full of parts. If you stick with a gas cooled torch, a flex head 17 with a superflex cable would probably be the most versatile for you. I would suggest picking up stubby gas lenses with the correct insulator for 1/16" and 3/32" tungsten sizes and some #7 and #8 cups. That will get you going on steel and aluminum. If you plan to do a lot of stainless or titanium, check back here and we can guide you on picking up the parts.
PaterNovem
- PaterNovem
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Joined:Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:33 am
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That's a big help. Outstanding.
I think I'm going to get a 17 torch for now. Gotta get something smaller than this 26.
I think I'm going to get a 17 torch for now. Gotta get something smaller than this 26.
Save your life; turn off your TV.
- MosquitoMoto
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Joined:Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:38 am
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You'll love it. My welding went ahead in leaps and bounds when I swapped to a smaller torch.PaterNovem wrote:That's a big help. Outstanding.
I think I'm going to get a 17 torch for now. Gotta get something smaller than this 26.
Kym
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