Having problems with Aluminum Tig Welding. How can you test to make sure you have the correct gas (argon)....and that they didn't put the wrong label on the bottle.
Put up some pics and we'll take a gander and help you out. You'd have a lot of issues with tungsten if you had the wrong gas.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
I think it might be the cheap 1/8" aluminum flat bar from Home Depot. I have tried adjusting the ac balance and frequency and had no luck. I'm using a foot pedal and trying to get enough heat to get the puddle started then back down. The filler rod keeps balling up and then the material seems to just melt too much. I'm not new to welding just new to Tig welding aluminum and this is kicking my a$$ trying to figure it out.
Mattwho777 wrote:I think it might be the cheap 1/8" aluminum flat bar from Home Depot. I have tried adjusting the ac balance and frequency and had no luck. I'm using a foot pedal and trying to get enough heat to get the puddle started then back down. The filler rod keeps balling up and then the material seems to just melt too much. I'm not new to welding just new to Tig welding aluminum and this is kicking my a$$ trying to figure it out.
Some tips you may already be aware of, but I'm posting them anyway. Hit each surface to be welded, and a short distance on both sides of the intended weld with at least a wire wheel, and wipe down with acetone or isopropyl alcohol to remove any oils. Keep your torch as near 90* to the weld as you can; do not "push", or you will surely melt the rod before you get it in the puddle. Keep the rod back from the arc, but inside the gas coverage, until you're ready to add, then move in and out quickly. (Lay-wire is not practical with aluminum.) It also never hurts to wipe down your rods with acetone or IPA before you weld with them, in case they've picked up contamination (WD-40 overspray, anyone?)
Just some random thoughts before seeing a picture of your aluminum difficulties.
Otto Nobedder wrote: Hit each surface to be welded, and a short distance on both sides of the intended weld with at least a wire wheel, and wipe down with acetone or isopropyl alcohol to remove any oils.
Steve
If I may just add, be sure it's a stainless brush/wire wheel that hasn't been used/contaminated with other materials such as steel.
dude... that's definetley messed up. That could 100% be a contamination issue on the aluminum's side but definetley also a gas issue like you mentioned but aluminum needs an inert gas like steel does so in theory, if you can weld steel with it, you should be able to do aluminum..... That just looks plain messed up.............
I know most people won't like this but for shits and giggles, run a new or clean wire wheel over an area of the aluminum and try welding that spot.
Um, Matt, this may be a silly question, but what machine are you using?
The reason I ask is, in your profile, under "equipment used", you don't list a machine that's capable of welding aluminum.
Another possible place to look for the problem is the back cap on your TIG torch... you know, that part you screw in at the back to tighten the collet that holds the tungsten electrode in place.
If the O-ring on that back cap is damaged or otherwise not sealing, then the torch will suck air in from the back while running.
This very problem happened to me a week or so ago. I purchased a new, medium-length back cap. After putting it into service I started to get nothing but cooked, pit-blackened welds, full of porosity. I suddenly felt like I had forgotten how to weld completely. Very frustrating.
Turns out that for some silly reason the groove to hold the O-ring in that back cap was off-center, so that one edge of the O-ring wasn't contacting the torch body to make a complete seal. Result: Cooked steel (grrrrrr!)
Otto Nobedder wrote:Um, Matt, this may be a silly question, but what machine are you using?
The reason I ask is, in your profile, under "equipment used", you don't list a machine that's capable of welding aluminum.
Steve
Steve it is an Everlast PowerPro 164Si. AC/DC Tig/Stick/Plasma
Last edited by Mattwho777 on Fri May 05, 2017 8:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
ignatz200 wrote:Another possible place to look for the problem is the back cap on your TIG torch... you know, that part you screw in at the back to tighten the collet that holds the tungsten electrode in place.
If the O-ring on that back cap is damaged or otherwise not sealing, then the torch will suck air in from the back while running.
This very problem happened to me a week or so ago. I purchased a new, medium-length back cap. After putting it into service I started to get nothing but cooked, pit-blackened welds, full of porosity. I suddenly felt like I had forgotten how to weld completely. Very frustrating.
Turns out that for some silly reason the groove to hold the O-ring in that back cap was off-center, so that one edge of the O-ring wasn't contacting the torch body to make a complete seal. Result: Cooked steel (grrrrrr!)
If I get my machine too close to what I'm welding, the outlet from the cooling fan blows the shielding gas away and can make some pretty nasty looking welds.
Lincoln Square Wave 200
Lincoln 225 AC/DC
Harris Oxy/Acetylene torch
MarkL wrote:If I get my machine too close to what I'm welding, the outlet from the cooling fan blows the shielding gas away and can make some pretty nasty looking welds.
Yeah I know what you mean. I had the machine facing/blowing away from what I'm welding. No fans on, closed off shop.